Help With Old Culligan Water Softening System - Bypass Valve

[PlmbgQst]

Hello,

As you can see from the picture, the bypass valve on my Culligan Water Softening system is going to fail sometime. I'd like to replace it. I asked a very experienced, professional plumber for help. He told me he couldn't replace it because the valve was not a plumbing fixture, it was a Culligan part. I contacted Culligan, they told me it was not a Culligan part, it was a standard plumbing fixture. I decided to try a plumbing forum for help, so here I am. Does anyone know how I should go about getting this fixed?

Thanks.

 

[Reach4]

That looks like a Fleck metal bypass valve. You can buy parts, or you can buy the whole thing. If that is the common 3/4 inch version, it is Fleck 60040. You will find a lot of information and availability.

I would not replace it if it operates. Force it CCW to bypass, and then back to its current position. If you can do that, just clean up the corrosion.

There is a compatible plastic valve too. That might take some plumbing changes.

I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PlmbgQst]

Thanks for the help on the part IDing it, and what to do about it. I'll start researching the part and test it like you suggest.

That looks like a Fleck metal bypass valve. You can buy parts, or you can buy the whole thing. If that is the common 3/4 inch version, it is Fleck 60040. You will find a lot of information and availability.

I would not replace it if it operates. Force it CCW to bypass, and then back to its current position. If you can do that, just clean up the corrosion.

There is a compatible plastic valve too. That might take some plumbing changes.

I am not a pro.

 

[Reach4]

Note those are not that easy to operate, even when new. Pipes are near the handle, making access somewhat limited. The part that you must apply pressure to is narrow, requiring your hand to push against a small area.

In trying mine, I may have used a ViceGrip pliers for an easier grip.

 

[PlmbgQst]

A follow up question if I may. I haven't been successful in turning the valve so far. I am thinking about purchasing a replacement, making an appt with the plumber and trying more force then so if everything fails, we don't have a flood or no water. It looks like you can now replace my brass valve with a stainless steel version. But, what plagues us is very corrosive well water. To give you an idea how bad it is, we are going through a new hot water heater about every 3 years even when we purchase the extra anode rod. I am worried about increased corrosion with the metal difference steel on copper tubing. Should I be concerned over that?

 

[Reach4]

A follow up question if I may. I haven't been successful in turning the valve so far. I am thinking about purchasing a replacement, making an appt with the plumber and trying more force then so if everything fails, we don't have a flood or no water. It looks like you can now replace my brass valve with a stainless steel version.

I suspect your current valve is stainless. The main reason to bypass would be if there was backpressure, the bypass could let you bypass the softener for testing or other reason. I would figure a way to apply more force. Ask a friend with more tools what he has. If buying a new tool for the purpose, I would look at a Milwaukee 10 in. Torque Lock Locking Pliers. The straight jaw might be best for this, but the curved jaw version could be good for this. I like mine.

Your handle looks more accessible compared to mine. So rather than a pliers, I would use a length of pipe. I measure the plastic covering my handle to be a little less than 3/4 wide. You could take a piece of type L or M copper pipe, and use that as a handle extender. 3/4 steel or PVC would work too. So would 3/4 EMT conduit.

I just tried operating mine again. It is stiff, and takes force. I did not need to use a tool, but if mine had sat un-operated for many years, I might need a tool.

But, what plagues us is very corrosive well water. To give you an idea how bad it is, we are going through a new hot water heater about every 3 years even when we purchase the extra anode rod. I am worried about increased corrosion with the metal difference steel on copper tubing. Should I be concerned over that?

If you were doing the re-do, you might move to the plastic version. These valves can be rebuilt with a kit in the $60 region. If doing stuff, you might consider that too.

On the acid water, you should have a water test that include pH, hardness, iron, manganese, alkalinity, corrosivity, arsenic and more. Unfortunately the company that was offering a nice lab test for $60 including shipping is not doing that for now. :-( Testing is available for $120 plus shipping if you don't opt for the bacterial test. I suspect buying their UPS shipping option may be cheaper than what you would pay on your own. http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=NTL&Category_Code=Well+Water

It is possible there is a local company. Testing via the county is usually only testing for the bacteria, and not what your problems are. I expect there are exceptions.

Acid water can be treated, as can other things. I suggest you post your water test results into the softener forum (includes other water treatment too). Include a description of what you have. I presume you own your current equipment.

This is the softener forum: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?forums/water-softener-forum-questions-and-answers.22/

 

[ditttohead]

I would get the plastic bypass and the push to connect adapter. You would simply cut the copper pipe, debur it, and slip the new bypass right onto the existing plumbing. It would take you about 5 minutes to replace with a modern bypass.

see the attached page, all the available bypasses and connectors are here.

https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/42-43