Help Needed with Leaky Outdoor Faucet

[heldmacm]

Hello,

Yesterday, I noticed a faucet that has a garden hose connected to it was leaking at the hose. The hose is nearly brand new, and there didn't seem to be any punctures in it, so I disconnected the hose, and sure enough, there was a steady stream from the faucet. I confirmed the faucet handle was all the way off, which it was, and I've since shut off the water to that faucet, and that stopped the drip.

I noticed a portion of a black washer at the bottom of the faucet (where the water was dripping from), and I removed it with pliers. I don't know if that was the issue, but it certainly wasn't doing me any favors. Anyway, I suspected that I needed to remove the stem valve in the event that, or one of the washers on it, needed to be replaced, and I'm having a difficult time getting the handle off. In most DIY help videos I've seen, there is a screw holding the handle in place, and you simply unscrew it to remove the handle. However, the type of faucet I have is different, as the pictures should show. There is a nut holding what appears to be a bolt in place in lieu of the screw. I successfully removed the nut and loosened the packing nut under the handle, but I have no idea where to go from here.

The first picture shows what it looked like before I did anything, the second picture illustrates what I'm looking at with the nut removed, and the last two show the loosened packing nut, as well as how the faucet is connected to the stem. I could really use some assistance to determine 1). Am I approaching this the correct way in attempting to remove the stem valve, and 2). If so, what do I need to do in order to remove it? If I'm not going about fixing the leak the right way, I'd certainly like to know that, too.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Terry]

Below the bonnet nut is the eight sided porton that you can put a wrench too and spin off.
You can also remove it at the wall and replace the entire sillcock.
What you have is not frostfree.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[heldmacm]

Terry,

Thank you for the quick response. Two questions: 1). Can you please clarify what the bonnet nut is so I know where to look for the eight sided piece that can be removed? and 2). Am I correct in assuming that you'd recommend I do what needs to be done to make it frostfree?

Thanks again.

 

[Gary Swart]

The bonnet nut is what you unscrewed. (Bonnet like hat) You don't make this faucet into a frost free. A frost free is a totally different kind of faucet that shut the water off 12" inside the house so there is no water left to freeze. They are also equipped with an anti siphon feature. Suggest you research these on Google for details.

 

[Reach4]

You don't need a frost free, but they have an advantage: you don't have to remember to turn off an inside shutoff. You should have a valve in the basement near the spigot that you should close before any significant freeze occurs. Then open the outside faucet all winter. If in doubt, put one of those styrofoam covers over the valve to insulate it. If the pipe does not drain well or if the shutoff is too close to the faucet, that can save your plumbing. Even if you had a frost free spigot, one of those covers will save a bit of heat loss from the house.

 

[heldmacm]

Thanks for the explanation, and we do shut off the valve in the basement before winter each year. The bonnet nut is what I suspected it is (the one I loosened), but I'm having a difficult time trying to determine what else needs to be loosened to remove the valve. I don't need to remove the entire assembly from the wall - I just want to remove the stem so I can replace the washer or whatever is causing it to drip with the faucet off. I looked below the bonnet nut, but I don't see anything with eight sides as previously mentioned. Can someone please tell me what else I need to do to remove the stem valve?

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[Reach4]

Go for 6 sides.

 

[Smooky]

Loosen the stem removal nut

 

[heldmacm]

Thanks everyone - I'll give that a try tomorrow.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Sometimes the stem nut is in there so tight that you can round off the nut faces before it will break loose.
What I do, loosen the handle, snap a pair of vice-grips on the valve body. Then snap another pair onto the nut. Take a hammer and smack vice-grips # 2 while holding vice-grips #1. Really, grow a set and knock the hell out of it. Then you can change the washer.

 

[heldmacm]

Well, I've tried removing the stem removal nut with an adjustable wrench using as much force as I'm comfortable using, and it will not budge. I'm attempting to turn it counter clockwise, and when I apply a decent amount of force, the part that's affected seems to be where the bib is connected at the wall, so I don't want to use more force and pull it out of the wall. Does anyone have any other suggestions, or should I go the route fullysprinklered suggested? My concern with that is the same: if I apply too much force, it could come loose from the wall.

Thanks!

 

[Smooky]

Use two wrenches, one to hold the faucet and another to turn the stem removel nut.

 

[heldmacm]

I was able to get the stem removal nut off and remove the stem. I've confirmed the washer at the back end of the stem was worn, but the screw that holds it in place was stuck inside the part still attached to the wall. I attempted to use a magnetized screwdriver to pull it out, but all I did was push it downward, so I won't be getting that out. Is there a special type of screw that's necessary to secure the washer to the stem, or will any screw that fits do the job?

 

[WJcandee]

Sometimes these things drip because your water pressure has become higher than normal, often due to a failed expansion tank or pressure reducing valve. It might be wise to check your pressure, preferably with a little cheapo meter that has a "telltale" in it, so you can screw it on for 24 hours and make sure that the pressure doesn't rise and fall dramatically, for example rising a good bit while you water heater is on.

 

[Smooky]

The screw might be stainless steel and may not stick to a magnet. If you use a replacement screw it should fit and be able to screw in all the way. It would be best if it is stainless steel of something that will not rust. You might be able to wash the lost screw out by turning the water back on. To avoid losing the screw you could tie a screen or something similar, maybe a sock on the hose bibb so it does not get lost. You would have to tie it so it covers both those openings, then open up the water for a few seconds and see what happens .

 

[Dj2]

A new brass sill cock is $4.

It comes with a new washer and a new washer screw.

 

[heldmacm]

Well, I tracked down a new washer and screw, began reinstalling it, and when I tightened the bonnet nut, it cracked. I can only assume I over-tightened it in an attempt to make sure it was sufficiently tight. Anyway, as a result of that and another issue I experienced removing the valve stem, the valve stem as a whole needs to be replaced. What I have left connected to the wall can be seen in the video linked above at approximately the 5:05 mark.

I looked into a brass sill cock as suggested above, but since I only need the valve stem (i.e. the portion that attaches to the pipe inside the wall is still in tact), I'm not sure if that's what I need, or if you can simply replace the valve stem (which assumes it's equally economical to do so). Basically, I need the entire part that was removed in the above video (and not just the washer and screw).

If it's advisable to purchase a new sill cock in lieu of replacing the valve stem, can I simply remove the valve stem from the new sill cock and install it into what I have left, or would the valve stem from the new sill cock only work with that particular item?

 

[Smooky]

You should be able to figure out which valve you have and find another one. You could replace it with a new valve or if you find an exact match you may be able to get parts. This type of sillcock is cheap so you could buy a new one like you have , take it apart and and use the new parts in the old valve.

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[heldmacm]

Thank you for the quick response. If I understand you correctly, I can purchase a new sillcock for ~$6, remove the valve from the new one, and install it into the old valve, right? If so, that sounds a lot easier and likely cheaper than trying to track down a replacement for the exact valve I have. Or am I misunderstanding you, and the above scenario would only work if the new sillcock is identical to my existing one?

 

[Smooky]

You may be able to just unscrew the valve you have and screw on a new valve but it could be sweated on and that is more difficult. If you can find another valve just like you have or almost like the one you have then the stem in the new valve might work in the old valve body that you have. Just take the guts out of the new valve and put them in the existing valve body. You may only need that bonnet nut that you broke.