Hard well water with a smell - help me fix it?

[NewWellMan]

Hello everyone!

This city boy has finally found a little slice of paradise 'out in the country'.

It's super nice and very quiet, I love it. But it also means I have to learn about where water comes from (and where it goes :/ )

The water is very hard, smells pretty strongly (both hot and cold), and has rust / leaves red staining.

I've been doing research and did have the water tested with the 'Tap Score' test from Simple Lab reccomended here and elsewhere.

The results are here:

https://gosimplelab.com/ALX288

I did budget a fair amount to 'fix' this and am willing to do what is needed to get it right. I would prefer not to have to use salt (the lower maintenence the better).

I'm thinking, a mutli stage Pentek filter setup, then a good quality water softener? But I really don't know and would just be throwing stuff at the wall to see what stuck.

Any ideas or comments?

Pete

 

[Valveman]

Moving this to the softener forum where you should get more help. It is not as easy to install in the north where is gets so cold, but you might look at the no chemical option of the Sulfur Eliminator.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

All water softeners use salt. Iron attaches the the softeners resin bed and it gradually reduces the effectiveness of the softener, therefore, you must use salt with an iron remover or regularly do iron remover backwashing.

With staining you're getting from rust, do not rely on the water softener to reduce the iron content. It just won't do. All filtering varies by how fast the water flows. A slower water flow gives time for the filter media to do its job.

Your best bet it use a local water treatment company. They should be familiar with the water conditions in your area. It is usually will cost more than you may realize but good equipment is not cheap. Do not use the internet for pricing of equipment. On line sales will be cheaper but what about warranties, if any, problems and support for parts. A local guy doesn't want to do warranty work since there is no money in it, therefore they'll use the best and most reliable equipment.

You'll probably need at least four filters of sorts. A sediment filter, an Iron remover, water softener, charcoal filter.

Ask nearby neighbors with wells what they use?

 

[Reach4]

A softener will not remove H2S. ("smells pretty strongly (both hot and cold") Most water tests will not detect, let alone quantify, H2S. The nose knows.

Cartridge filters will not filter out iron or H2S at reasonable cost. My current preference would be to have one 20x4.5 inch cartridge before and other after the softener. Or just one or the other. If just one, there is a difference of opinion as to whether before or after is better. My sediment filtering is before, but one after will filter out any broken resin. I have not detected broken resin.

A dedicated iron+H2S backwashing filter will reduce salt usage, because there is less for the softener to do. What you find that leads you to think you found a saltless water softener are generally not going to soften. There may be services that will swap softener tanks maybe monthly, and they regenerate the resin away from your home.

Note that unless you take careful sampling care, false positives on coliform tests are pretty common. For smell and/or coliform, I would start with a good sanitizing of your well and plumbing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up. It is more intensive than the common easy ways. The weather is getting much nicer.

For a backwashing iron+H2S filter, there will be a need for backwashing for maybe 10 minutes at some gpm. How many gpm can your well and pump deliver during that time?

 

[WorthFlorida]

With well water, you'll need to check your water heater if you have a separate unit from the furnace to heat the home. Hard water is very hard on WH's since the minerals will build up. If it is a gas water heater they will fill up with sediment from the bottom up and act as an insulator from the flame to the water. For electric WH sediment buildup is far less. Water heater's end of life is about 10 years, more for electrics if they do not leak before hand.

 

[LLigetfa]

Cartridge filters will not filter out iron or H2S at reasonable cost.

Lots of folks might disagree as there is anecdotal evidence that KDF-85 in a Big Blue works.

 

[NewWellMan]

Thanks guys!

This got me started in the right direction. I see no salt won't work for me. I looked at the Sulfur Eliminator and eliminated it You're right the cold complicates it. I appreciate the suggestion.

I don't know the gpm of my pump but the home does currently have a tall tank (like a gas cyclinder, like some of the products I'm looking at now but from 1990) with a head on it and mechanical timing, I believe it flushes. I had a contractor tell me that replacing the media would help. I'm planning on replacing the unit.

I actually have already bought a heat pump electric water heater to replace the past-end-of-life unit currently installed. I'll replace it when I install the water treatment.

It's been so wet and my neighbors are so far away I haven't met them yet. I will ask.

I'll just ingore the coliform for now then. I will definately save the link and do the well sanitizing soon.

Of course space is an issue too - ug! ( I have a crawl space, so only a small utility room)



Am I on the right track with something like this?

Water source to -> a 3 filter Pentek Big Blue with sediment, carbon block, and KDF cartridges,

->then something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/PRO-AQU...dDLCWiHtSiQaAor0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#overlay

(or this one - is it different? https://www.amazon.com/DuraWater-Carbon-Injection-Filter-10X54/dp/B078C82XF8#customerReviews )

->then a water softener like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3G7LTD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

-> then perhaps a secondary filter? Now would be the time I'm thinking.


I'm all ears, too little, too much, other possibilities, specific brand recs? Order, type, and placement of the filters?

Again thank you all

Pete

​

 

[MaxBlack]

We don't have an iron problem, but we do have smelly water and a 20" GAC filter works quite well.

 

[NewWellMan]

Thanks Max, noted

Any suggestions on my suggested setup (post #7)?

Pete

 

[Reach4]

Cartridge filters should be after the pressure tank and pressure switch.

My H2S+iron filter only uses 5 gpm to backwash in a 10 inch diameter tank. It uses Centaur Carbon media. My iron is less than yours. At about 8 gpm, you could use Katalox Light media.

Media does need replacing. For Centaur Carbon, I think my number is 7 years. KL may be similar.

 

[NewWellMan]

Well I went ahead and bought stuff.

I decided to install a iron/sulfur air over media treatment and a water softener and see what happens. If needed I'll add cartridge filters later.

I went with (NO affilation etc):

A 'SimPure spin down sediment filter' off Amazon

Then an AWS 1.0 CF 10" tank with a Fleck 2510SXT controller, Katalox Filter Media, and a stainless bypass.

Followed by a Whirlpool WHES40E water softener.

$1900, yeehaw. I will report back.

Thanks guys, just talking about it a little can go a long way in sorting out one's thinking.

Pete

 

[Reach4]

If convenient, play the drain line into a 5-gallon bucket during backwash. If S is the number of seconds to fill, the gpm is 300/S.
If under 7gpm, I predict clumping. If under 8, clumping could still happen, but not as certain.

Spin down is before KL I presume. I put my backwashing filter right after the pressure tank. A wye filter to keep the pebbles out might have been a good idea for me. I hope the spindown filter allows sufficient backwash.

 

[Water Expert 509]

Hello everyone!

This city boy has finally found a little slice of paradise 'out in the country'.

It's super nice and very quiet, I love it. But it also means I have to learn about where water comes from (and where it goes :/ )

The water is very hard, smells pretty strongly (both hot and cold), and has rust / leaves red staining.

I've been doing research and did have the water tested with the 'Tap Score' test from Simple Lab reccomended here and elsewhere.

The results are here:

https://gosimplelab.com/ALX288

I did budget a fair amount to 'fix' this and am willing to do what is needed to get it right. I would prefer not to have to use salt (the lower maintenence the better).

I'm thinking, a mutli stage Pentek filter setup, then a good quality water softener? But I really don't know and would just be throwing stuff at the wall to see what stuck.

Any ideas or comments?

Pete

 

[Water Expert 509]

With odor you may be looking at tannins and organics present in your water, the organic matter or iron that is present at 1.02ppm could be causing the discoloration. With coliform present I would be most concerned with that, making sure you properly treat the bacteria. I would recommend doing ozonating over UV treatment if maintenance is something that you are concerned with. I went with an EcoWater ERR3700 which treats hardness and iron https://ecowaterspokane.com/water-softener ERR3700

and

Microzone CD550 (see my installation below) https://www.cwtozone.com/products/water-purification-products/micro-series/microzone-cd550/ Microzone CD550

I also went with a HERO385 reverse osmosis as a final polish for point source to ensure the water for cooking and drinking is the best possible.

Maintenance with my setup is 1 bag of salt per 3 months for family of 4, 3 bed 2 bath, pre and post filter on RO every 1 year replacement and membrane every 3-5 years, I know people don't want to spend time and money on salt, and with the system I went with the efficiency is phenomenal literally filling up my brine tank with 4 bags once a year is a nice exercise