Exterior Drain System Feedback

[Rossn]

As part of my remodel of my lower level (~4' below grade), I found evidence of some moisture and bulk water issues, though I wouldn't say I classically have a 'wet basement'.

Per the attached drawings, I'm planning on adding drainage as shown, and would welcome any feedback. I think it is mostly a surface water issue, versus groundwater.

A few open questions:

1. I had intended to tie the radon system into the sump, and thus the perimeter footer drain. Since I'm using the dimple mat, I'm not sure if I will lose suction out the top when it is capped and a few inches beneath the surface.
   
2. I'm not sure the trench/french drain approach will work for me near the surface, given my soil is 60%+ sand, and drains easily. I added a liner, though am not sure if that will work, and ultimately I'd tie it into the rest of the gutter system.
3. Anyone see any significant issues with the length of the perimeter drain being up to 110' from the sump, and being almost flat?

Thanks!
Rossn

 

[WorthFlorida]

Water flows two ways, downhill or path of least resistance. If the pipe is flat water will seek it own level no mater how far. Your drawings look good. But I wouldn’t connect the gutters to it. You’re dumping water right next to the foundation and if the drain can’t handle water volume it may work it’s way under the concrete floor.

In your situation just keeping the water from touching the wall will make a big improvement. A second step is coat the inside of the concrete wall or block with DryLok. It reduces the humidity level inside the home by blocking moisture seeping in through the wall.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rossn]

Thanks. The gutters would only attach to a separate surface drainage system that would drain to daylight. The footer drain going to the sump. In my case, I'm also making sure the stem wall can dry to the interior, so I won't be coating it. The sill plate has no gasket and does not appear to be treated, meaning I need to prioritize the concrete staying dry.