Enticed by home depot to use the waxless ring, toilet giving off odor...

[djbordie]

Against my better judgement, I ended up using the blue/silicone waxless ring.

The initial concern is the flange (relatively new home, 5 yr) was installed crooked...lucky me.

it is 1/8 proud on the left and flush on the right.

The waxless instructions say "if flush or 1/4" below, use the spacer" well the spacer + waxless = too proud for the toilet. it sits was too high. So I used the waxless only, applied to toilet first and carefully dropped in place. Was easiest install i have ever done.

Should I have used the spacer and maybe the base bolts would snug it down nicely?
i was more afraid of cracking the porcelain in this situation.

Couple things to mention:
1. only hand tightened base bolts
2. used thicker closet bolts, instead of the ones from the Waxless kit
3. have not siliconed the toilet base yet
4. no leaks that i can see visibly, flushes like a beast.

Should I tighten the bolts a hair more, silicone the whole perimeter, and see if odor persists?
Or check the waxless setup and possibly ditch that?

thank you folks, also for your extensive reviews on toilets. I ended up with a Toto Drake. It is a beast. I am very pleased with the quality of the unit as a whole. Flawless. As expected by all of the positive notes on this forum.

 

[Reach4]

Against my better judgement, I ended up using the blue/silicone waxless ring.

The initial concern is the flange (relatively new home, 5 yr) was installed crooked...lucky me.

it is 1/8 proud on the left and flush on the right.

The waxless instructions say "if flush or 1/4" below, use the spacer" well the spacer + waxless = too proud for the toilet. it sits was too high. So I used the waxless only, applied to toilet first and carefully dropped in place. Was easiest install i have ever done.

Should I have used the spacer and maybe the base bolts would snug it down nicely?
i was more afraid of cracking the porcelain in this situation.

I see your dilemma there. You were right at the border. You are apparently referring to the Fluidmaster Better Than Wax Universal Toilet Seal. It probably would have been fine had you installed the gray piece too, but I am not experienced in that. I think your Drake probably has clearance at the upper end of the typical range.

Should I have used the spacer and maybe the base bolts would snug it down nicely?
i was more afraid of cracking the porcelain in this situation.

If the toilet sat down on the assembly without rocking on it, then there was enough space.

Couple things to mention:
1. only hand tightened base bolts
2. used thicker closet bolts, instead of the ones from the Waxless kit
3. have not siliconed the toilet base yet

2. The quarter inch closet bolts that came are good if they are brass; brass does not attract a magnet. Some prefer 5/16 closet bolts, but there is no need for that.
2. NO, don't use silicone. Use Acrylic, usually clear. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/caulking-toilet-base.69351/#post-514776

Should I tighten the bolts a hair more, silicone the whole perimeter, and see if odor persists?
Or check the waxless setup and possibly ditch that?

First I would loosen the closet bolts. Can the toilet rock? If so, you will want to add shims before caulking. Then I would put in the second part of that fluidmaster ring. Make sure that there is not significantly more rocking. Add your shims to prevent any rocking. Then tighten down your closet bolts.

I am not a pro.

 

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[djbordie]

With the spacer, there was rocking. So I installed with waxless only. No rocking at all.
upon test fitting, the waxless comes off with the toilet. which leads me to believing that the seal is being made, the concern is whether it protrudes in to the flange enough/tightly.

However you are right, it is on the border/fence. slightly over on one side and flush on the other. which puts me in between the two install methods lol.

I have the GE tub and tile caulk, its a blend I believe. I see no negative to using this, other than difficulty removing.
Would sealing the perimeter fix the odor, or is this not a good approach.

Im just worried that the waxless is the main problem here, and the crooked flange.

 

[Reach4]

With the spacer, there was rocking. So I installed with waxless only. No rocking at all.
upon test fitting, the waxless comes off with the toilet. which leads me to believing that the seal is being made, the concern is whether it protrudes in to the flange enough/tightly.

I see your point. If you had a belt sander, you could consider slanting one of the pieces, but you should not have to do that.

The Saniseal does not have pieces, and cover 3/8 above to 3/8 below the floor with the one piece. Below 3/8 below the floor, they say to stack two of them.

I'll bet HD would let you return the thing you have, which turned out to be inappropriate for the job, and get a Saniseal for $4 more.

I have the GE tub and tile caulk, its a blend I believe. I see no negative to using this, other than difficulty removing.
Would sealing the perimeter fix the odor, or is this not a good approach.

No. Your caulk should not be trying to stop sewer gas. That is the job of the seal. Besides, most people don't caulk all of the way around, leaving the back open to expose a leak. The caulk keeps liquids from flowing under the toilet.

"The GE Silicone I Tub & Tile 100% silicone is a permanently waterproof caulk"
It is probably not a good idea based on what experienced people have posted. Lifting the toilet later could require blades. You might search the Toilet forum for reference to silicone caulk, and decide. On the other hand, you may never have to lift that toilet or work on the flooring under it.

 

[djbordie]

understood, i believe I should start over with Wax or a SaniSeal.

the downside to the foam saniseal is I read the life expectancy is not great. 10 years max.
The foam dries out, gives odor eventually, etc. The old toilet had a foam seal on it.
Also reading that it sometimes is too thick, even if the flange is within the 3/8 above rang.

shoulda got wax as usual....

 

[Reach4]

shoulda got wax as usual....

If using wax, you want to have the shims in place before dropping the toilet. You want to not raise the toilet once it is down, and you don't want any rocking to occur on the wax. If you are skilled at getting it right the first time, wax is great.

 

[djbordie]

ugghhh, talked to manufacturer:

they specifically said to use wax instead, even though the product box says works on uneven flanges!

wtf is that!

never again...

 

[Reach4]

Return it. Put the stuff in a bag, and don't try to pack it back into the package. Even if that $8+tax is not worth the trouble, it will give you a chance to vent. If you don't have the receipt but paid with your credit card, they can probably bring it up on the computer at the desk.

 

[djbordie]

ya no worries about the return, its just stupid for them to advertise works on uneven flange...then a rep tells me to go buy wax instead.
come on...

 

[Reach4]

ya no worries about the return, its just stupid for them to advertise works on uneven flange...then a rep tells me to go buy wax instead.
come on...

I agree. 1/8 inch difference is hardly even uneven. If it were 5/16 uneven, that would be different.

 

[djbordie]

go figure, a single non horn wax. no leak no odor...
what was i thinking!

how can home depot peddle that product, and how can they advertise one thing and say another.
shoulda checked here first regarding waxless products.

thanks again for the help dude!

the drake is a work of art and flushes like a banshee

 

[Dj2]

"how can home depot peddle that product"

HD is a buy-and-sell store, and that's all.
They only see sales number, and that's all.
If an item has too many returns, they stop selling it, and that's all.

Sani seal works well, but you had a crooked drain problem to begin with.


"how can they advertise one thing and say another."

The previous president did it (You can keep your doctor and even save thousands on health insurance)...so a store that sells plumbing supplies can do it too.