This will work with or without a pressure switch.
This looks like just the ticket. It does add some complexity to the system and my brain is pretty simple so I'll need to think about this.
Meanwhile, my Furnas 30/50 has a screw that will allow me to adjust the cut in and cut out pressures, plus another screw that will adjust the differential. I'll upload the data sheet with this post. I hesitate to mess with it since it seems to be working fine with my hose with the nozzle shut-off, with the pressure switch at current settings. Is there any reason to adjust these settings with my current simple set-up?
Also, I'm using the breaker for this circuit as an on/off switch for the pump. I can wire in a switch but considering how long it's taking me to get things done, is there anything wrong with using the breaker as a switch for the time being?
Thanks.
Oops. The 2-page pdf file is too large for the system to accept. I'm sure this Furnas 69ES pressure switch is pretty standard in regard to its adjustments.
ALSO: How hot are pump motors supposed to run? I'll get a laser thermometer on it to get a reading but it's not with me just now. After half an hour of continuous running I can't hold my hand on the motor shroud for more than two seconds. This 1/2 HP Dayton motor is rated for continuous duty but it's over 90 degrees daytime temperatures lately and I'm wondering if I should be running the motor for an hour or more at a time? With a bladder tank the pump would cycle on and off and maybe not run so hot . . . but the cycling on and off isn't that great for it either is it? That's supposedly what kills the Harbor Freight pumps (when they work).
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I hesitate to mess with it since it seems to be working fine with my hose with the nozzle shut-off, with the pressure switch at current settings.
I take that back. Tonight when I shut off the nozzle I blew the hose off the hose bib mounted on the pump outlet. I'll put a better bib with more (and newer) threads on tomorrow but this was an event telling me that if I can reduce pressure inside the hose by adjusting the settings on the pressure switch, I ought to. Before I start playing around with the settings, could someone advise me whether I'll accomplish anything by adjusting the cut-in/cut-off settings downward? What about the differential setting - how does that fit in to what I need to do, if at all? Valveman has pointed out in other threads that pump behavior is often the reverse of how one
thinks they work so I'd appreciate some feedback on this before I start tampering with the pressure switch adjustments.
Here's a link to my pressure switch data:
http://www.hubbell-icd.com/icd/pressure/files/4269ES.pdf