Does my plan to replace CPVC stop valves/supply tubes sound correct?

[Guy232]

Hey fellas, I lurk this site quite a bit over the years and finally wanted to make an account. I have done some research and was wondering if anyone could double check if this is correct?

Parents home:

• Manufactured double wide on a slab foundation, approx 15 years old
• Well water w/ properly maintained softener system (Florida)
• All plumbing is original, leak free

Is it correct that it would be advised to replace shut off valves and supply tubes for toilets, faucets, dish washer, fridge and washing machine (anything else)? I inspected all of them and correct me if i'm wrong but it seems those parts of the plumbing system use:

Toilet: CPVC supply line, solvent welded brass shut off valve, braided supply tube


Faucets Hot&Cold: CPVC supply line, CPVC Slip x Slip Stop Valve, non-braided supply tubes


If I should replace, is this the right method: cut the supply lines (potentially brittle, use sharp wheel cutter) then fully prepping the cut pipes (deburr, chamfer, emory etc) and then properly solvent welding on new brass ball valves? Any particular best valve to choose? Or is there a better way that i'm unaware of?

Thanks for the time fellas, I did a lot of reading and searching but just wanted to double check my research.

 

[James Henry]

Before you touch anything make sure the main shut off valve to the house works, if it doesn't fix that first then you can turn each shut off , off and on a few times to see if it leaks. Make sure your parents know how to shut the main valve off. Valves will last a long time without leaking until you turn the handle then you have a 50/50 chance it will fail.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

The braided flex lines should be replaced. they do not last forever. The stop valves will usually hold up until you need to shut one off. That is when they break or fall apart. Usually the seat washers deteriorate so you cannot turn off the water completely or the packing nut leaks.

My house is CPVC and both solvent glued valves and shark bite are used. You only need a pipe cutter for CPVC. Do not scrape or sand down the outside of the CPVC if you are to use shark bite type connection unless to remove old glue, etc. but cut it back to clean pipe if possible. Just be sure the cut edge has no burs. What you use for replacements is up to you, just be sure you have a parts on hand. I like Shark Bite, good quality, easy to install.

When you have some valves on hand then close and open the valves. It will give you feeling how good they holding up. If they shut off and no leaks after opening one, do not fix what's not broke unless you are very comfortable doing any replacements.

The pic for hot hupply side, the braided hose connection looks like to be a 1/2" thread, usually they are 3/8" compression fitting but it is CPVC. Usually brass will be 3/8" but 1/2" is available in all brass.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Just look but dont touch any of that if you dont want to start a project.
If you got the time money and want to tackle it . I would do this..... replace stops and supply lines. Easy fix is a shark bite angle stop or adapter to male pipe thread . I dont like shark bites very much . second fix is a compression stop (same as for 1/2inch copper) I dont like this eitheras I dont trust the plastic. 3rd fix glue on a male adapter . pretty good fix but dont like waiting for glue to dry. My vote goes to shark bite( never thought Id say that)