Delay from pump cut in / to water flow

[TVL]

This is a single phase 240 VAC circuit - 6.5 amp FLA rated motor .................. correct?

1- Not knowing how this circuit OR its components are actually wired, I would have expected the amp draw reading to be equal on each hot leg (or very close to being equal).

2- The amperage from each hot leg in a 240 VAC circuit are NOT added to get total current draw. Again, the two hot legs generally read about the same, but if not, the higher amp reading is the actual amperage being used in the circuit.

3- If this is truly a 240 VAC single phase motor rated at 6.5 amps and this electrical circuit isn't being "shared" with another component, I would expect you to get roughly 6.5 amps on EITHER hot leg when the pump is running full open. Open up 2 or 3 faucets which will allow the pump to run at full amperage and take another reading.

 

[Paul I Abraham]

Ok so i started all over, drained the tank and system, turned off pump.. changed the pressure gage(just to be sure) ,put 28psi of air back into tank.. then i turn it all back on and nothing.. the switch is closed and I have power in/power out...Now what?? What am I missing? Or is this well pump just shot?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[TVL]

Ok so i started all over, drained the tank and system, turned off pump.. changed the pressure gage(just to be sure) ,put 28psi of air back into tank.. then i turn it all back on and nothing.. the switch is closed and I have power in/power out...Now what?? What am I missing? Or is this well pump just shot?

Well, I'm sure others will chime in at some point, but here is what I would do next if I were in your shoes:

1- Just maybe the pump is functioning and pumping water. There may be a huge leak in your drop pipe or the motor may have become separated from the drop pipe. Naturally no water would be making it to your tank if this were the case. I would once again take an amp reading. If current draw is present, then maybe the pump is OK. However, the pump will need to be pulled to see exactly what is occurring down in the well.

2- If you get no reading on your amp gauge, then possibly the motor is defective OR something else such as a loose cable splice. At this point you will need to utilize your ohmmeter and check the resistance between the two leads going to the motor. If I recall correctly, this pump does NOT utilize a control box, therefore there are only two wires feeding the motor.

You stated you had power in / power out at the pressure switch. Therefore, I'm assuming you meant the voltage was at the proper level as expected (240 VAC)

 

[Reach4]

Your next step might be to measure the resistance between hots to the pump (power off) and also measure the resistance of each wire to an earth ground. Isolate the wires by disconnecting, since you cannot get enough pressure to open the pressure switch before opening the breaker.

 

[Paul I Abraham]

Your next step might be to measure the resistance between hots to the pump (power off) and also measure the resistance of each wire to an earth ground. Isolate the wires by disconnecting, since you cannot get enough pressure to open the pressure switch before opening the breaker.

Ok, so after a couple hours and dozens of attempts to reset breaker, it turned back on..water restored. However, now like before it seems to run nonstop and will not reach cut out pressure. Barely tolerable pressure at faucets,showerheads.. i have dialed it back to try not run all night, tried turning it up significantly, but to no avail..it hovers at about 25psi..with no water running anywhere.. So check resistance between hots?&to ground right? Will do tomorrow and post results..chances are it will be barely running at the time tho..that matter?

 

[Paul I Abraham]

Its looking like its probably time to call in the pros, this is what i was hoping to avoid..

 

[TVL]

i have dialed it back to try not run all night, tried turning it up significantly, but to no avail..it hovers at about 25psi..with no water running anywhere..

I'm not an expert on water pumps and wells, but I'm going to speculate on what I think might be your problem with the little information you have provided:

1- Based on you last post, it sounds as if you are implying the pump now runs nonstop and can only build approximately 25 PSI. As I eluded to in my last post, you may very well have a leak or rupture on your downpipe in which the pump hangs on. It could also be that the pump itself has corroded to the point that the pump head has developed pin holes in it (I've had this happen in the past to one of my pumps) Either way, and if this is the case, the pump is doing its job, but it's continuously pumping (or leaking) a lot of water down in the well. In this situation, the pump can only get so much water to the top, and therefore, it will never be able to fill the tank and reach the cutoff pressure.

2- Checking the current draw will yield valuable information. Looking back at your earlier post, I saw a motor tag indicating this may be a 7 amp pump motor. Therefore, if the pump is running full open as one might guess, you should see approximately 7 amp current draw on your meter. This will indicate the motor may be OK. You also need to check the resistance on the motor leads as requested.

3- Another thought might be that if the motor amperage checks within specification, as well as the motor winding resistance, it may be that the impellers in the pump (wet end) are so worn that they can't deliver the appropriate volume of water any longer.

In either case and if I'm correct in my guessing, the pump will have to be pulled. However, I would still check the amperage & winding resistance and report back.

Afterthoughts:

A- If there is a leak as I'm guessing, this can be easily proven. Simply turn the breaker off that feeds the pump. Once the pump is de-energized, the tank should hold pressure and any remaining water stored inside. If the tank empties and the pressure drops to zero, then you likely have a leak between the tank and pump ............... unless your check valve is defective.

B- If the pressure and water volume in the tank remain the same, then it is very possible the pump is your issue.

 

[LLigetfa]

If the tank empties and the pressure drops to zero, then you likely have a leak between the tank and pump ...

The topside checkvalve would mask the leak as I said way back in post 7.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-pump-cut-in-to-water-flow.72348/#post-534541
Topside checkvalve confirmed in post 14.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-pump-cut-in-to-water-flow.72348/#post-537204

 

[TVL]

The topside checkvalve would mask the leak as I said way back in post 7.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-pump-cut-in-to-water-flow.72348/#post-534541
Topside checkvalve confirmed in post 14.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-pump-cut-in-to-water-flow.72348/#post-537204

You're correct! However, I did state: "If the tank empties and the pressure drops to zero, then you likely have a leak between the tank and pump". This statement would have also taken into consideration the other check valve, but NOT the masking as you have pointed out. However, after more thought, if there really is a leak as I'm speculating, it could also be anywhere upstream of the water tank. Unless he has a way of isolating the tank & piping from ALL upstream locations, my suggestion will only let him know there is a leak somewhere in his system ................. not necessarily in the well.

Anyway and hopefully, the OP will let us know what he finds from our suggestions.

 

[Paul I Abraham]

Honestly, im afraid to unhook pump and check resistance as it seems when its powered off for mire than a couple minutes it doesnt want to restart.. last time i drained all the water the pressure stayed in the tank. Now i may have left out that about 2 years ago i poured bleach down the drop pipe mistakenly trying to chlorine shock the well. I lost significamt pressure temporarily . It worked itself out tho and ran fine for a year and half plus..but im aftaid maybe corroded the the drop pipe over time possibly.. sound feasible?? Now we have a foot of snow and pulling the pump really isnt an option for me.. think ill call local well and pump professionals soon..just not sure about approximate costs.. maybe new pump. Have and older steel or cast iron casing not PVC. Can anyone give me a ballpark figure of what im looking at spending?? Its christmas time now so worst timing..

 

[Reach4]

I am not a pro. But I will throw out $1500, and we will see if somebody want to take the under or over.

Clearly it would be nice if I was too pessimistic.

There are things worth borrowing money for, and this is one of them. A new car is not one of them IMO.

Maybe talk to your credit union or bank. Credit card interest is to be strongly avoided.

 

[Paul I Abraham]

Thanks much for the info. Thats seems to be next step, as my energy bills for electricity alone hve tripled over last two months im sure its a result of nonstop running pump... Nothing else has changed.

 

[Paul I Abraham]

Seems you were really close, had a quote for $1500 but then once they got here started telling me closer to $2000 because this and that, blah, blah blah. Stuff I already told them. ULTIMATELY WAS $1700 just a couple small hole rotted in galvanized drop pipe. They replaced all that with PVC and installed a new 3/4 hp pump and all is well, no pun intended. . Thanks for input and advice. Much Appreciated
Paul A.

 

[LLigetfa]

just a couple small hole rotted in galvanized drop pipe.

I believe I called that on post #7 of this thread.

Are there more checkvalves besides the one on the pump? If so there might be a leak in the pipe that is being masked by a topside checkvalve.