Decaying chimney used by water heater. Options?

[pannierpacker]

I have an old brick chimney that is currently only being used by the gas water heater. The chimney is in bad repair and contractors are quoting me $2900 to fix the chimney. I'm getting a roof replacement over the next month and that is the reason I had the chimney evaluated. The water heater is 24 years old and could be swapped out for one that doesn't require atmospheric ventilation via a chimney. Another contractor quoted me $1500 to remove the chimney. I'm finding that electrical outlet installs are easily running $750-1000 depending on type (i.e. 120v vs 240v) which I'd need to install if I wanted to get a newer water heater (current one does not use electric). Furthermore, swapping the water heater will cost me $750 for the labor (cheapest labor I could find) and $400 to $1100 for the part (depending on if I go with a cheap electric or gas power vent). Lastly, a power vent gas water heater requires special piping to be installed out the side of the house and preliminary estimates are telling me that this could cost another $500-750 on the install. I'd consider doing some of this work myself but all of this work has to be permitted in the city where I live in. Also, anything on a steep roof scares me. So in a nutshell here is what I'm finding (see below). How would you suggest proceeding?

Option 1: Repair chimney and just wait for 24 yr old water heater to die:
Total: $2900
Estimated annual additional utility costs: same as now

Option 2: Delete chimney and replace water heater with electric:
$1500 - chimney delete
$1000 - install 240v electric
$750 - water heater replacement labor
$400 - water heater part
Total: $3560
Estimated annual additional utility costs for switching from gas to electric: ($100 a year. 2 person household with limited hot water usage. This is based on Xcel's guidance. Where I live, both electric+gas costs are close to national average)

Option 3: Delete chimney and replace water heater with power vent gas:
$1500 - chimney delete
$750 - install 120v electric
$750 - water heater replacement labor
$500 - water heater venting labor
$1100 - water heater part
Total: $4600
Estimated annual additional utility costs: roughly same as now plus a small additional power cost to run vent.

Option 4: Delete chimney and replace water heater with Hybrid/HeatPump?
$1500 - chimney delete
$1000 - install 240v electric
$750 - water heater replacement labor
$???? - additional labor from getting a hybrid water heater put in vs other kinds?
$1700 - water heater part
Total: $4950+ ?
Estimated annual additional utility costs: same as now, maybe slightly cheaper?
Maintenance costs: ??? I'm told these things need constant dust cleaning and finding people to replace parts is both difficult and expensive, especially where I live.
For the time being I'm not seriously considering the heat pump option because there are too many unknowns.

 

[Fitter30]

Forget option 1 heater is way beyond usable life. Contact both gas and electric utilities for equipment rebates. Federal tax credit.

Tax Credits for Your Home

Find eligible products and home improvements.

www.energystar.gov

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

You'll find rebates usually for hybrid water heaters, up to $500 here in Florida. There are direct vent gas water heaters. Remove the chimney and vent out the side of the home. There are location restrictions if there are nearby windows.

 

[Weekend Handyman]

I had a power vented boiler. It was noisy and prone to break downs. When I had the new boiler installed, I went with a chimney … works way better.

 

[Reach4]

If the chimney is mechanically OK, it is fairly common to install a stainless steel liner, and vent that way.

 

[pannierpacker]

You'll find rebates usually for hybrid water heaters, up to $500 here in Florida. There are direct vent gas water heaters. Remove the chimney and vent out the side of the home. There are location restrictions if there are nearby windows.

I just did a little research and it appears that in the US for horizontal power venting, you need to have it 4 feet away from existing windows, 3 feet from any air inlet, and 10 feet from any lot line. This pretty much makes it impossible to do this where I currently live. I guess I am at the mercy of the inspectors if I decide to go that route?

 

[pannierpacker]

If the chimney is mechanically OK, it is fairly common to install a stainless steel liner, and vent that way.

Chimney is crumbling above the roof line and needs maintenance. I already have a steel liner inside the bricks. Could I just remove the bricks from around the liner (to at least below the roof line) and make sure that the roofer singles right up to the edge of the steel liner? Never heard of anyone doing that before. Not sure how waterproof that is or how well that steel liner would hold up to the elements. Funny that the chimney people didn't even suggest this...

 

[Jeff H Young]

Chimney is crumbling above the roof line and needs maintenance. I already have a steel liner inside the bricks. Could I just remove the bricks from around the liner (to at least below the roof line) and make sure that the roofer singles right up to the edge of the steel liner? Never heard of anyone doing that before. Not sure how waterproof that is or how well that steel liner would hold up to the elements. Funny that the chimney people didn't even suggest this...

you mean demo out chiminy to below roof down into the attic and then just have the liner continue through the roof ?
I think that may be a way except I never used a chiminy liner we run double wall b vent. Im sure you could fabricate something but very concerned about meeting code . actually dropping a piece of 4 eo amerivent or 5 eo with a vent cap and flashing just a few finishing touches and meeting code with connections might be a deal breaker. its just that chiminy venting is rarely done here so i lack that particulsr knowledge

 

[WorthFlorida]

The only way to save a chimney is to have it re-pointed as long as its foundation is sound. The worst bricks to be removed, replaced or mortared back in and be recapped to minimize water intrusion. Either way you go is a big cost.

 

[John Gayewski]

Have you looked into a tankless Navien? The exhaust is only a 2" pipe (provided the distance is a reasonable length) and you should be able to run a 2" pipe about anywhere through a closet or whatever to get out the roof.

I haven't looked into it, but I'm told a Navien is close to the same cost as a power vent water heater. Changing the piping might be necessary.

 

[pannierpacker]

Have you looked into a tankless Navien? The exhaust is only a 2" pipe (provided the distance is a reasonable length) and you should be able to run a 2" pipe about anywhere through a closet or whatever to get out the roof.

I haven't looked into it, but I'm told a Navien is close to the same cost as a power vent water heater. Changing the piping might be necessary.

I have not looked at tankless. I was under the impression that tankless was prohibitively expensive. Do you mean tankless gas or tankless electric? It looks like the Navien's are running anywhere from $1100-1500 (based on Google Shop search, but there are different model numbers).

One additional consideration is that my water pressure is currently pretty low (original galvanized steel pipes from street to water heater). I know that I have brand new copper piping from the tank water heater today to the hot faucent on my laundry sink. That pressure works great. I would not want the shower situation to suffer if having a tank is helping to mitigate pressure issues today.

 

[Jeff H Young]

The only way to save a chimney is to have it re-pointed as long as its foundation is sound. The worst bricks to be removed, replaced or mortared back in and be recapped to minimize water intrusion. Either way you go is a big cost.

only way? it cant be demoed down to below the roof and stainless vent liner left in or adapted to a b vent below the roof . Maybe its not doable but I would think east coast 80 year old plus homes have a few solutions . but we all use type b vents here. used to be asbsestos pipe that stuff held up pretty good half century usually plus

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

It sounds like you ought to just install either a 50 gallon power vented unit or a 50 gallon electric heater....

Normally the power vented units are not all that difficult to install and a common extension cord to the nearest outlet will suffice

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

It sounds like you ought to just install either a 50 gallon power vented unit or a 50 gallon electric heater....

Normally the power vented units are not all that difficult to install and a common extension cord to the nearest outlet will suffice

 

[oldVermonter]

I defer to the experts (thanks, all), but personally I would avoid putting any money into a chimney that has no expected future use. Sounds like money down the drain...or maybe up in smoke?

 

[oldVermonter]

I defer to the experts (thanks, all), but personally I would avoid putting any money into a chimney that has no expected future use. Sounds like money down the drain...or maybe up in smoke?

Sorry to make a mess, but I seem to have posted this comment twice....is there a way to delete this post?

 

[Reach4]

A chimney may contribute architecturally.

 

[LLigetfa]

A chimney may contribute architecturally.

It could also contribute structurally which could affect the cost to completely remove it and not just below the roof line.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Tons of suggestions no reply so i guess its fixed