Copper pipes contacting each other

[Tipster1]

After installation of a new hot water heater I noticed that the inflow and outflow pipes were pressing on each other where they crossed each other at about a 90 degree angle on top of the tank. (The heater is installed in the attic of a sea shore cottage). I also notice a corner (elbow) pressing on the outside of the heater. I contacted the plumbing contractor and was challenged, saying I should trust their installation since I had no credentials as a plumber. He was remarkably hostile. What do I know about craftsmanship and plumbing? etc. (I'm not a plumber, but I am a surgeon.) I then spoke to the owner who told me pipes should never contact each other and he would send someone out to fix it. Unfortunately, he sent the same man to whom I spoke initially. He once again tried to defend the work and basically dared me to make him to fix it. I chased him out, asked a neighbor who is a licensed plumber (and electrician, engineer, and steam fitter) and was told that crossing touching pipes was unacceptable for a variety of reasons. So I called the owner again and mentioned calling the local (New Jersey) plumbing inspector. He sent another man out who ALSO defended the installation, but offered to solder the pipes together where they contacted, so they wouldn't rub each other (I already had stuffed a piece of hose between the pipes.) I said no, re-do it with clearance and get the elbow off the tank while you're here. I don't want some future buyer's home inspectors making an issue about it. Then he said home inspectors don't know anything, but complied, grudgingly.

Question: Is it ever acceptable for pipes to contact each other and is soldering them together really an acceptable solution?

 

[Bluebinky]

Not a real plumber here, but I wouldn't want the one on the left. If it looks bad, it probably is.

Is the one on the right coming from the PT relief valve? If so, I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

The real question is why would anyone do an install like that if they didn't have to? Where are the unions? Is there even a shut-off valve? Dielectric union/brass transition? ...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

The copper pipe against the water heater isn't an issue. Sometimes you will even see them strapped to the heater.

If the two pipes above are touching, putting something between them works. A lot of plumbers will solder them together too.
When I was doing a lot of new construction, there were always guys that liked to solder their pipes together and those that kept them apart. They both passed inspection.

It's a bit like caring about which way someone else parts their hair.

I prefer that they aren't soldered together, but then I also have used copper pipe between studs and soldered pipes to that for bracing.
The plumbers also use Holdrites, which is a copper coated metal with punched holes that the pipes pass through and are soldered to them. I've used a bunch of those.

 

[Jadnashua]

If one is hot and the other cold, I'd not want them touching. Also, it's a very good idea to insulate at least the first couple of feet of the pipe coming out of the WH, and further, if possible.

 

[hj]

Neither of those two pipes will "move" so there is absolutely no problem with them touching. Soldering them together would also be acceptable. There is also nothing wrong with a pipe contacting the outer jacket of the heater. What I would not have done, although theoretically it is acceptable, would have been to attach the copper lines directly to the heater. That appears to be a "reducing" female adapter on the heater's outlet. IF so, is this a big heater with 1" pipe outlets or do you have 1/2" copper water lines?

 

[Winslow]

Don't know about other jurisdictions but here in Hawaii (UPC) a union is required in the piping, you cannot hard pipe to the heater like that. When I used to do repairs I did many repairs on water lines because the hot was contacting the cold line, usually under slab. The hot line deteriorates much like electrolysis.

 

[Tipster1]

Thanks for your feedback, guys. To answer questions, the whole 700 sq ft cottage (2BR, 1 Bath and a kitchen) is plumbed with 1/2" and there are shut offs coming and going. It's elevated on 8' pilings and wiggles in the wind (not to mention recent earthquake) Even though everything is connected, I'm still glad I made the installer redo it leave space between things. Just looks less like I did it myself.

Particular thanks to Terry for providing this service. Glad to be living in the 21st century.