Copper Pipe Rubbing on Washer Box

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sheenbean

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Hi all,
Had a licensed plumber in CA move plumbing for laundry room to other side of wall for a permitted laundry room I’m building. The city didn’t care about the plumbing since it was just a clean up / move of existing, but my work will be inspected and they will see this work.

I have a few concerns with the work and the plumber said they’d correct anything the city is not happy with. I see quite a few issues with the work but I need your advice on a few things.

Biggest issue I see outside of the obvious is they ran the copper behind the laundry box and it’s rubbing. Bigger issue is the box is sticking about an inch past the 2x4 stud and will stick out past the drywall in an unsightly fashion. I’m going to reach out and have them fix that and I wanted to confirm the copper should not be in contact with the box anywhere other than where it mounts. This will (could) vibrate and cause a leak down the road if not addressed correct?

Few other things, they cut the framing excessively and I know that does not meet code and will get rejected. All of the framing cut you see is new or expanded. The only existing framing cut was a 40% notch in the top plate which had the vent sticking out the drywall and I wanted that corrected along with putting the plumbing in the wall.

They are good people and I hope they will work this out with me.

Thoughts?
 

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Terry

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The sink is not properly vented, both the washer and the sink need their own venting, which can then tie back together at six inches above the flood level.

index.php


This one passed inspection.
 
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sheenbean

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my city follows 2019 CA building code, so UPC. I am trying to find the specific code that calls this out so I can discuss with them.

All I can find is this, is this the correct code that calls out where this does not meet code?

908.0 Wet Venting

908.1 Vertical Wet Venting


Wet venting is limited to vertical drainage piping receiving the discharge from the trap arm of one and two fixture unit fixtures that also serves as a vent not exceeding four fixtures. Wet-vented fixtures shall be within the same story; provided, further, that fixtures with a continuous vent discharging into a wet vent shall be within the same story as the wet-vented fixtures. No wet vent shall exceed 6 feet (1829 mm) in developed length.

908.1.1 Size

The vertical piping between two consecutive inlet levels shall be considered a wet-vented section. Each wet-vented section shall be not less than one pipe size exceeding the required minimum waste pipe size of the upper fixture or shall be one pipe size exceeding the required minimum pipe size for the sum of the fixture units served by such wet-vented section, whichever is larger, but in no case less than 2 inches (50 mm) in diameter.
 

John Gayewski

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Is there a reason you don't just let them inspect it and then when it fails just let them fix it? If there's extra inspection costs then it should be deducted from his bill. Its easier than trying to argue. There must be a reason he thinks it'll pass.
 

sheenbean

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Is there a reason you don't just let them inspect it and then when it fails just let them fix it? If there's extra inspection costs then it should be deducted from his bill. Its easier than trying to argue. There must be a reason he thinks it'll pass.
good point there. I suppose no reason other than I felt it was best to bring it up as soon as possible rather than wait until inspection.
 

Jeff H Young

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homeowner has a right to good workmanship regardless of whether you get an inspector to sign off. If you say the box is not going to look right thats not acceptable. Ive put sticky back felt over copper touching a box befor.
Sheenbean I dont buy everything is new framing I can see old drywall nails in the studs?
we used to wet vent using 2 inch drain pipe but with the sink on top I think that still dosent meet code but less likely to suck water out of trap and never had problem. better to put an uprigt wye and revent them 6 inch minimum above the stadpipe
 

sheenbean

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homeowner has a right to good workmanship regardless of whether you get an inspector to sign off. If you say the box is not going to look right thats not acceptable. Ive put sticky back felt over copper touching a box befor.
Sheenbean I dont buy everything is new framing I can see old drywall nails in the studs?
we used to wet vent using 2 inch drain pipe but with the sink on top I think that still dosent meet code but less likely to suck water out of trap and never had problem. better to put an uprigt wye and revent them 6 inch minimum above the stadpipe
No that wall is existing garage framing, I built the laundry room and office inside front section of the house and removed the drywall around the existing plumbing. The original laundry plumbing was half in half out of the wall or on that garage side. They made all those cuts in the existing framing.

Even if the plumbing is right it won’t pass, they cut out more that 40% of 2x4 for that 1 1/2 sink section which was not necessary didn’t add the Simpson brace. The 2” laundry pile cutout should have the Simpson brace. Where they cut into the top plate, same thing supposed to have a plate of certain thickness.

That coupled with the box installation, I’d like them to come address the issues and would like to point out the venting is not to code and just get it fixed right. I guess that’s why I’d like to know the specific code to discuss it with them.

Really I should have paid more attention when I looked the work over, but at 1st glance it seemed decent enough until I really got into it.

I’ll just double check with the city and then reach out to the plumber.
 

John Gayewski

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No that wall is existing garage framing, I built the laundry room and office inside front section of the house and removed the drywall around the existing plumbing. The original laundry plumbing was half in half out of the wall or on that garage side. They made all those cuts in the existing framing.

Even if the plumbing is right it won’t pass, they cut out more that 40% of 2x4 for that 1 1/2 sink section which was not necessary didn’t add the Simpson brace. The 2” laundry pile cutout should have the Simpson brace. Where they cut into the top plate, same thing supposed to have a plate of certain thickness.

That coupled with the box installation, I’d like them to come address the issues and would like to point out the venting is not to code and just get it fixed right. I guess that’s why I’d like to know the specific code to discuss it with them.

Really I should have paid more attention when I looked the work over, but at 1st glance it seemed decent enough until I really got into it.

I’ll just double check with the city and then reach out to the plumber.
Yes you have the right code section a washer can't vent a sink. The sink can vent the washer though. Those two tees should be flipped and they should be 3x2 tees with 3"pipe between them. The problem is 3"fittings do not fit in a 2x4 wall so a revent would be easier. Also the tees being stacked like that with short tap arms isn't great.

If you don't want the inspector to get them to fix it then you'll have to put your foot down and tell them to.

The copper thing isn't a code issue and seeing as plastic won't cause an issue with the copper you'd just have to tell them you don't like it and have them change it.

The washer box should be changed also. Maybe they are planning on cutting it after the drywall and the trim plate covering it. If that can work you'd also just have to say you don't like it or want them to cut your box. Once again you'll just have to put your foot down since you're the one paying. Sometimes it's easier to let them mess up and see it the hard way with them paying to fix things. But if you want them to fix it then you'll have to convince them to.
 

Jeff H Young

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If the work doesn't meet code correct it. don't accept shoddy work just because some one tells you they'll fix it if the inspector fails it.
Many inspectors don't want to make life miserable so they sign the card or they don't know don't care
 

John Gayewski

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The washer needs to be on bottom and drain with a wye and revent. Then sink tee on top. Longer trap arm on the sink.
 

sheenbean

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Ok, I drew up the plan to scale as close as I can get it for the plumber. I will have to move the 1 2x4 stud closer to vent to accommodate the combo wye & 1/8 bend.
• I am right at minimum for distance to revent and p trap (4" yes?)
• I assume I need to have same distance from revent to vent (combo wye?)
• I meet the 30" max from top of stand to middle of drain pipe
• Revent joins main vent 7" over top of stand and roughly 9" of top of flood plain
EDIT: all piping is 2" with exception of the sink, which will drop to 1.5"
Question, are these distances from rough floor or do I have to calculate for flooring?

Does this cover it? Anything else you guys would suggest?

Thanks for all the feedback and help, I really enjoy learning and like to do it right.

plumbing plan_V2.PNG
 

John Gayewski

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Ok, I drew up the plan to scale as close as I can get it for the plumber. I will have to move the 1 2x4 stud closer to vent to accommodate the combo wye & 1/8 bend.
• I am right at minimum for distance to revent and p trap (4" yes?)
• I assume I need to have same distance from revent to vent (combo wye?)
• I meet the 30" max from top of stand to middle of drain pipe
• Revent joins main vent 7" over top of stand and roughly 9" of top of flood plain
EDIT: all piping is 2" with exception of the sink, which will drop to 1.5"
Question, are these distances from rough floor or do I have to calculate for flooring?

Does this cover it? Anything else you guys would suggest?

Thanks for all the feedback and help, I really enjoy learning and like to do it right.

View attachment 83546
That's good but instead of a tee for the washer use a wye and 45
 

Terry

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With the washer having it's own vent now. Where it drops into the vertical can be a santee or a wye fitting. Without it's own vent, a trap arm goes to a santee. The drawing you have is correct.
 

wwhitney

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In case it helps, the 4" minimum trap arm length is measured between the two red lines in my excerpt below (which may require enlarging to see). IIRC, 2" of exposed pipe between the hubs is plenty.

Cheers, Wayne

plumbing plan_V2.PNG
 

sheenbean

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Thanks all, this is awesome. Such a challenging trade, much respect for you guys. Now to just work with the plumber to address these issues. I feel like they are reasonable and will work with me. Hard part is to walk softly with the guy as this is his work and I don't wish to denigrate his effort but the end result needs to be right.
 
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