Closet Flange. How do I repair this?

[jimpc]

So I'm going to replace my third toilet in the house. Remove the old toilet and this is what I see:

Obviously part of the ring is broken. However, what's left isn't screwed in and it's not moving so something is holding it. How do I repair/replace this?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

You can use a flange repair device to hold the closet bolts, such as Superior 21015. This is usually used where you can screw in the hold-down screws a bit outside of the ring space. This is often a very nice solution.

If you want to screw into the floor closer to the flange, check the Sioux Chief Ringer.
http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/spacer-repair/ringer

DANCO Model 10672X is Hydroseat. It may fit your needs. Read up on it. You put a normal wax ring under it. I used to think you put another ring on top, but I see they are planning that you just put the toilet on top with no top wax. This would fit cases where the feet are going to be on top of the finished floor, and you can drill holes for the feet. You may be able to use the holes not on the feet to hold it down, but I am not sure.

If these don't seem to match your needs, there could be other choices that do not require digging.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

You appear to have a lead closet riser, so you can't take that existing toilet flange off without creating a bigger problem...so, a repair ring with a good seal beneath it is your best bet.

The concrete was probably installed around the flange, so if you did need to replace it, you'd have to crack away the concrete and probably replace the lead as well. A CI toilet flange is typically leaded in place as well, but may not be with a lead riser.

Because they did not tile up to the flange, that might restrict the toilets you can use to cover that hole as well. While it takes a little more skill, when tiling a bathroom, it's best to run the tile up to, and actually under the toilet flange.

Keep in mind that the toilet bolts are best thought of as aligning the toilet, not really holding it tightly in place. Once it is snugged down, adding some caulking around the base of the toilet (leave a gap behind unless your locale prohibits that) will keep it from moving, allowing the wax ring to keep the seal intact. Movement will damage the wax seal. Excessive tightening of the anchor bolts will potentially damage the flange, but could also just as easily break the base of the toilet. Those bolts should just be snugged up once you've compressed the wax with your weight on top.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you want to screw into the floor closer to the flange, check the Sioux Chief Ringer.
http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/spacer-repair/ringer

One level up from that link wil show you several different options, one of which should work in that situation. You might consider cutting way what is left of the flange in such a was that it leaves the lip intact and then slip the two-piece repair flange under it using longer tapcon screws.
http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/spacer-repair

 

[Reach4]

jimpc, if you put a straightedge across the flooring, how far down is the flange stuff?

 

[jimpc]

jimpc, if you put a straightedge across the flooring, how far down is the flange stuff?

I was able to gently curl about half of the lead up to see if the flange could be removed. It's not budging. I flattened the lead lip back to where it was.

The flange is virtually level with the finished floor height. The lead covering it is higher than the finished floor.

 

[jimpc]

jimpc, if you put a straightedge across the flooring, how far down is the flange stuff?

Also I've been using the Korky wax free seals on the other toilets with no problems or leaks so I'll stick with that if possible. Lastly, the new toilet covers the unfinished area currently there so no worries there.

 

[jimpc]

You can use a flange repair device to hold the closet bolts, such as Superior 21015. This is usually used where you can screw in the hold-down screws a bit outside of the ring space. This is often a very nice solution.

If you want to screw into the floor closer to the flange, check the Sioux Chief Ringer.
http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/spacer-repair/ringer

DANCO Model 10672X is Hydroseat. It may fit your needs. Read up on it. You put a normal wax ring under it. I used to think you put another ring on top, but I see they are planning that you just put the toilet on top with no top wax. This would fit cases where the feet are going to be on top of the finished floor, and you can drill holes for the feet. You may be able to use the holes not on the feet to hold it down, but I am not sure.

If these don't seem to match your needs, there could be other choices that do not require digging.

If I go with the Superior 21015 do I need to remove as much of the old ring as possible or do I just lay the superior on top?

 

[Reach4]

You could lay it on top. I would not mess with the lead more than necessary. I would avoid fatiguing it.

Maybe post a photo when you get it done, or even when you dry fit before drilling holes.

 

[jimpc]

You could lay it on top. I would not mess with the lead more than necessary. I would avoid fatiguing it.

Maybe post a photo when you get it done, or even when you dry fit before drilling holes.

I'm on my way to Lowe's. 1/4 x 1 1/4" Tapcon to drill it to the concrete?

 

[Reach4]

I'm on my way to Lowe's. 1/4 x 1 1/4" Tapcon to drill it to the concrete?

I would think the 3/16 ones should be enough. They sell the right 5/32 drill bit nearby usually. Make sure you drill 1/4 deeper than the screw will go, and clean the holes before screwing in the Tapcons. http://www.tapcon.com/products/conc...con_installation_instructions_3-16and1-4.aspx

 

[jimpc]

I would think the 3/16 ones should be enough. They sell the right 5/32 drill bit nearby usually. Make sure you drill 1/4 deeper than the screw will go, and clean the holes before screwing in the Tapcons. http://www.tapcon.com/products/conc...con_installation_instructions_3-16and1-4.aspx

Unfortunately when laying the Superior Super Ring on top it was about an inch above the finished floor because it was resting on the lead and not just the old flange. There was no way it was going down much farther. So I curled the lead up, I know, and was able to easily lift the old ring and remove it. So here's where I'm at now.

 

[Reach4]

I might go to wax over that to conform to the wrinkles better. Waxless has its points but wax has better conformity. With wax, pre-position your shims before dropping the toilet onto the wax.

 

[jimpc]

I might go to wax over that to conform to the wrinkles better. Waxless has its points but wax has better conformity. With wax, pre-position your shims before dropping the toilet onto the wax.

Just got back from the plumbing supply with the same floor flange I had there before. So I'll drop it in. Peen the lead. And screw it down.

 

[jimpc]

What do you think?
View attachment 43884

 

[jimpc]

I might go to wax over that to conform to the wrinkles better. Waxless has its points but wax has better conformity. With wax, pre-position your shims before dropping the toilet onto the wax.

What do you think?

 

[Reach4]

What do you think?

Looks nice. I think this brass one is not going to rust like the steel one before.

 

[jimpc]

Looks nice. I think this brass one is not going to rust like the steel one before.

All done. Went with a wax seal with a horn. Thank you so much for your time.