Choosing Iron Filter

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Mswlogo

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New to forum and it looks like I’ve come to the right place.

Back ground. I’m on a lake. Had a system that was installed before we bought in 2003. Had a pre iron filter that backwashed. And a softener (installed around year 2000). Water was great. But brine was killing trees near house. And I was also concerned with salt next to the lake with septic. Salt is BAD. We switched to potassium and all was good. Except it was expensive and hard to find.

Fast forward. New house. Only a few houses away, drilled last year.

Water results at the bottom.

Problem with water test is it does not tell you if it’s dissolved or undissolved iron.

I bought several test kits and concluded most of it must be undissolved? Because the 1 micron sediment filter dropped iron a ton.

Another problem is, I think, since it’s undisolved it can get stirred up. If I use the well hard, the next day it will spike iron.

So I put large 20” 1 micron filter and that gets rid of a ton of the iron. It’s less than 1 ppm with that filter. Most of the time.

So I bought one of these pentair iron cartridge filters (expensive), that removes iron, as a temp fix, followed by a carbon filter and then a “water drop” filter under sink. I measured 0 ppm at the sink. Water was great.

That water drop is fantastic BTW.

Problem is after a few months we could sense iron in the shower. Just a tiny bit. We were more sensitive than the test kit. Test kit showed a trace. Water Drop was taking the last bit of iron out.

Since hardness is pretty good and PH good I wanted to avoid a softener if I could.

I thought this was gonna be simple to just get a backwashing “iron filter” (like we had) but there are so many trade offs with each system.

Air injection seems like a nightmare.
The thought of using salt, potassium, or chlorine etc. seems over kill and I don’t like the side effects nor costs. We don’t care for water being to soft either.

I’d love to know what the iron filter was at my old house. Any idea what it was? I don’t think it had air injection and did have a backwash.

Someone mentioned trying an AIO filter (green sand) but leave AIO off in another thread. I think with the 5 micron filter iron should be low enough that, that might work. But it’s hard to know how much the iron might spike. It varies a lot.

I’m tempted to just keep buying these expensive iron filters at $100 every 3 months. It might be the cheapest with the least side effects.

I also saw another recommendation for a Terminox Iron filter. What the heck is in it? Greensand?

Note the test was done a day after the well was really loaded down. Iron is not normally that high.

52288248717_3a91320182_b_d.jpg
 
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Reach4

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One of the considerations for iron filters is the rate of water use for backwash. How many GPM could you provide at 30 PSI?
 

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One of the considerations for iron filters is the rate of water use for backwash. How many GPM could you provide at 30 PSI?
I have a pretty nice well pump. Variable speed. Well is 600 gallon reserve (in the well).

I can pretty much set it to what I want. But I like 50-60 psi. Probably 3/4 line to water system and it will be very close to 1.25” line that enters the house. Not sure what that flow rate would equate to, but it’s fairly high.

It’s a constant pressure system. It will speed up the pump as needed to maintain 50 psi (or what I set it to) while flowing. There is no real storage tank (bladder) limit. Ok Looking that up probably 20 GPM easy. Maybe even 30 if that makes for a better setup.

I could go 1” all the way to the water system too.
 

ditttohead

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In general a house will rarely see higher flow rates than 10 GPM, sizing an iron reduction system for 30 would be expensive and unnecessary. Your level of iron and pH would typically necessitate the use of oxidant injection. A retention tank may also be beneficial but slightly overkill. Here is a basic 3d drawing of a common system for your application.
1660670757547.png
 

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In general a house will rarely see higher flow rates than 10 GPM, sizing an iron reduction system for 30 would be expensive and unnecessary. Your level of iron and pH would typically necessitate the use of oxidant injection. A retention tank may also be beneficial but slightly overkill. Here is a basic 3d drawing of a common system for your application. View attachment 85747
Thanks.

I think we are confusing usage flow rate with back wash flow rate.

It’s just two adults. We do two loads a laundry a week and shower every other day. :)

No lawn, might have a garden that will be untreated water.

Also the iron level (after a good 1 micron sediment filter) is probably 1-3 ppm. It’s almost tolerable with just the sediment filter. The 1 micron does clog up fast and not cheap. Probably 1 every couple months but I don’t know our normal usage yet. We were using that and cartridge iron filter last year and getting by being there 75% of the time.

I was thinking of this sediment filter

https://www.cleanwaterstore.com/product-display.html?Product_Code=SF003160

And something like this for iron.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TMZYYQY

What does a retention tank do?
 

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I think I might have found the right Iron filter.

https://store.afwfilters.com/iron-s...on-platinum/air-injection-platinum-10-system/

No Chemicals, Handles High Iron and Manganese, not fussy on PH, long life media, Fleck (metered?) Valve.

It uses a solid Manganese Ore (heavy to back wash, but durable and high capacity for removing Iron)

Not sure if I should get 1.0 cu ft or 1.5 cu ft.

This company seems to have every combination you could want.

Only concern might be how often (and how much) I need backwash (due to heavy media) which is why I might go with the smaller one.

It would be most simple to backwash into Septic system, but I don't want to strain Septic.

I believe it can be based on metered when to back wash.

I think you can run it with Air Injection or with Out. They sell the same unit without Air Injection.

Price seems reasonable.

Too good to be true?
 

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That kind of media should have about 25 gpm/cuft backwash. Can your pump do that? That is about 20 gpm for the 10 inch tank.

That would be timed.

It should have garnet in the bottom dome, because regular softener gravel would be too light.
 

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That kind of media should have about 25 gpm/cuft backwash. Can your pump do that? That is about 20 gpm for the 10 inch tank.

That would be timed.

It should have garnet in the bottom dome, because regular softener gravel would be too light.
20 gpm for pump would be easy. But according to multiple venders that sell similar setup they are all around 10 gpm. Are they all wrong? Your saying 200 gallon backwash?

Where does it say what’s in the bottom dome?

Can you recommend a similar setup from someone that would supply the correct media and define the correct specs for backwash?

Also is it worth doing a sediment pre filter to remove the easy iron. Either a large 20” cartridge (which I’ve been doing) or a backwashable sediment filter like I posted in my previous post (worried that would clog up with iron over time since it’s not an “iron filter”).
 

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Reach4

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20 gpm for pump would be easy. But according to multiple venders that sell similar setup they are all around 10 gpm. Are they all wrong? Your saying 200 gallon backwash?
Yes, they are mostly useing sub-optimal backwash. -- I would want a backwash of maybe 25 gpm/sqft or so (https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-or-mangox-and-preferences.54973/#post-402152). which would be about 20 gpm for a 12 inch tank. However you were talking about a 10 or 9 inch tank, so my 20 gpm number was too high.

10 inch tank is 0.5454 square ft. A 9 inch tank is 0.442 sqft. So 11 gpm would probably be enough. A little more would not blow media out of the top.

A 5600 , SXT or otherwise, has a hard time backwashing at 7 gpm-- and has no hope of 11 gpm. Fleck 2510 can.

These are not normally backwashed for 10 minutes.

Remember you cannot count on the pressure tank being full. The pump has to be able to keep up and still deliver 30 psi or more into the filter.

Edited to fix link.
 
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Yes, they are mostly useing sub-optimal backwash. -- I would want a backwash of maybe 25 gpm/sqft or so (https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ng-questions-or-mangox-and-preferences.54973/). which would be about 20 gpm for a 12 inch tank. However you were talking about a 10 or 9 inch tank, so my 20 gpm number was too high.

10 inch tank is 0.5454 square ft. A 9 inch tank is 0.442 sqft. So 11 gpm would probably be enough. A little more would not blow media out of the top.

A 5600 , SXT or otherwise, has a hard time backwashing at 7 gpm-- and has no hope of 11 gpm. Fleck 2510 can.

These are not normally backwashed for 10 minutes.

Remember you cannot count on the pressure tank being full. The pump has to be able to keep up and still deliver 30 psi or more into the filter.
There is no pressure tank. I have a continuous pressure well pump with a 600 gallon reserve in the well. I’m more concerned with amount of water for backwashing than the flow rate.

is there a good site this site recommends for getting the right components together?

What about the last Canadian link above with the Clack valve?
 

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I see no flaw except that I would like them to provide a higher backwash -- 11 or 14 for the 9 or 10 inch tank. Also garnet. Use 1 inch plumbing, or maybe 1.25 if PEX.

They may not want to send that to USA, but maybe they got a pass.
 

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I ordered the system from Canada.

I upgraded to 1.5 cu ft because that allowed for a Vortech Tank.

He recommended trying it without AIO first. He said if you do have any bacteria, air can make it worse.

He also recommended NOT running any pre-sediment filter because if that gets partially clogged it can limit the flow rate for the backwash. He thinks 10 gpm backwash is enough, but depends on water temp. Water is always cold. 600 ft well.
 

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You can order a higher GPM DLFC later, but if you can get them to ship the ideal 13 or 14 GPM one originally, it will be simpler and cheaper than finding the right pieces later. You will need the 1 inch drain line fitting if you want more than 10 gpm. So I would pay the smaller adder now, rather than finding repair/replacement parts later.

. If the tank is unpainted, you can shine a bright light thru in the dark, and see the shadow of the bed expansion during backwash.

You can sanitize your well and plumbing. Summer is a good time for that. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/
 
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You can order a higher GPM DLFC later, but if you can get them to ship the ideal 13 or 14 GPM one originally, it will be simpler and cheaper than finding the right pieces later. You will need the 1 inch drain line fitting if you want more than 10 gpm. So I would pay the smaller adder now, rather than finding repair/replacement parts later.

. If the tank is unpainted, you can shine a bright light thru in the dark, and see the shadow of the bed expansion during backwash.

You can sanitize your well and plumbing. Summer is a good time for that. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/
The spec sheet for Filox


Says 8.25 gpm for a 10" tank below 60F. Almost guarantee I'm well below 60F. Everything I google says 55F is common even in shallow wells. So I would think 10 gpm should be plenty. I'll double check my current temp. It was pretty darn cold when I ran it while on Sunday.

It comes with a 1 inch drain.

If Well was Chlorinated when installed (a year ago, twice), do I need to chlorinate the Well again?
Maybe that's easiest to hit all the plumbing. Will Chlorine harm the Filox Media?
 

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Many people don't do the flooding volume, so leave the bacteria below the pump and just outside of the casing.

I have seen nothing that says chlorine will harm the media.

I see the link I had put into #11 did not work, and I have corrected that link. Check these:
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....stem-recommendations.54625/page-2#post-400700
Thanks for the links.

I did see different backwash rates for different brand many-ox and thought different brands need different amounts.

The links don’t mention temperatures which impacts flow rates needed quite a bit.

What is “flooding volume”?
 

Reach4

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Some media sellers want to make their product look easier to use, and lower backwash is easy. But with minimal backup, a little clumping could make the media not properly expand to do the backwash. Something that makes the height of the media expand by about 35% is a lot more effective than a backwash of 10%. The bigger backwash is more positive.

Flooding volume is discussed a lot in my sanitizing writeup and the first link in that writeup.
 

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@Reach4 I swear you mentioned using a flashlight if the tank is unpainted to verify backwash. But I can’t find it. Might have been in another thread.

But is this to help verify the expansion % during backwash ?

It’s an “almond” Vortech tank. Is that likely unpainted?
 
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