Can I temporarily replace laundry utility sink with a stand pipe and if so then how?

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Larry S

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I'm planning on doing a little renovation in my laundry room which will involve replacing, or rebuilding, the laundry room sink cabinet (an old poor looking Duratub utility sink). We use the washing machine every day so I'm thinking of just installing a standpipe for the few days that there will be no utility sink. I'm looking for the easiest and cheapest (since it will just be used a short time) way of doing this.

The current sink has a trap inside the cabinet with a pretty standard cheap 1 1/2 slip joint P trap installed. I don't know if the connection to the drain in the wall is 2" or 1 1/2". I've included photos of the trap below.

I'm hoping that I can just insert a 2 foot 1 1/2" pipe into the P trap slip joint but I'm unsure if it would be sufficient. I'm also not sure if a 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe has the same OD as the sink tailpiece and if it will fit into the P trap slip joint.

Any thoughts on this or other suggestions?

My washing machine is a 15+ year old Whirlpool front loader. Right not the sink drains pretty well. Would the couple feet of 1 1/2 pipe be enough? I don't know if the drain pipe stub in the wall is 2" or 1.5" but I presume the slip joint coupling glued to it is for 1 1/2" trap in any event so I don't see a way to inexpensively change the drain to a 2" P trap. The only basic inexpensive P traps I see are 1 1/2".
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


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The foil pan is actually to catch drips faucet makes when it's on - it will be replaced. Trap isn't leaking.
 

wwhitney

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I'm hoping that I can just insert a 2 foot 1 1/2" pipe into the P trap slip joint but I'm unsure if it would be sufficient. I'm also not sure if a 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe has the same OD as the sink tailpiece and if it will fit into the P trap slip joint.
Unsure if it would be sufficient. 1-1/2" tubular is actually 1-1/2" OD, while 1-1/2" nominal Schedule 40 is 1.9" OD, so that part wouldn't work.

Your best chance would be to take a 2' piece of 2" Schedule 40, glue on a 2x1-1/2" reducing coupling, and then glue in a spigot end 1-1/2" trap adapter. You can use that with a short section of your scrap 1-1/2" tubular tailpiece to connect to your trap via the two slip joint fittings (the one on your existing trap, plus the one on the trap adapter end of your stand pipe). You might want to brace the top of the pipe, as all those slip joint fittings going to the wall may not be so rigid.

Then if you try this, be sure to attend the washer the first few times you use it, to see if it will drain adequately, or if the 1-1/2" portion is too much of a constriction. Actually if it does overflow, you could undo the slip joint connection at the wall and check the drain in the wall for obstructions with a hand snake; because I think the 1-1/2" trap would probably work, so it could be an obstruction.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Reach4

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You could stack up some tailpiece extensions. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...-Sink-Drain-Extension-Tube-HDC9793A/316622022 is 12 inches long.

I am thinking the washer will probably not overflow 1.5 inch, but I am not sure. You would need to mechanically secure the top, because that slip-joint pipe is not very strong.

There is also a piece that could go into the trap that is longer than a tailpiece extension. I forget the name of that.
 

Larry S

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Thanks for the ideas!

I priced the parts needed for the 2" at Menards (Thanks for the list and idea wwhitney! And it wasn't much more than buying a couple tailpiece extensions and I already had some glue and another part I needed from a while back. So I'll give that a try. I might have an unused storage bin that's shallow enough to fit under the whole trap just in case it overflows.
 
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