Bradford White Tankless Hot Water C-1 Error 5x/day

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NOC

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It’s getting exasperating and maddening. Have had two HVAC/plumbing companies out to no avail. C-1 is a venting blockage error code, the PVC vent pipe (2”) has been pulled apart and checked twice now, the intake examined for debris fallen on the burner etc. everything checked. Tried the automatic air/fuel mix calibration, fails every time at the 2nd stage. B-W thinks maybe a bad control panel/logic board. Last HVAC company feels too many elbows for the length of vent pipe run and/or too narrow a PVC pipe (should be 3” instead of 2”). The unit is only 1 year old. I’m getting desperate and tired of walking down 4 flights of stairs every morning to re-set it, along with 2-3 more times during the day and again before bedtime. Any insights?
 

WorthFlorida

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  1. Exactly what model number please?
  2. Is this a new problem?
  3. When did it start?
  4. How old is the installation?
  5. If there is one, is the exhaust fan running?
  6. When does it error out, on start up or while running for a while?
 

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  1. Exactly what model number please? RTG-K-160 N1
  2. Is this a new problem? So, I just bought the house 11/23, moved in 12/22. Noticed it day of move in.
  3. When did it start? I don’t think it was doing this during the month prior to moving in.
  4. How old is the installation? Installed July 2019
  5. If there is one, is the exhaust fan running? Yes, it has a powered vent built in, it’s operating normally
  6. When does it error out, on start up or while running for a while? Both. Usually overnight, therefore have to restart first thing. Then 2-3 times during the day and then again in the time between dinner and bed.
 

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Also, there is a recirculating pump, a Tako, in line. The SA menu in the heater is set to “7” for the delta between water temp in the pipes vs. the 120 degrees max the heater is set to.
 

WorthFlorida

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Did you call your realtor about the problem. As others stated the exhaust pipe is too small and had to be the problem from day one. A 2” pipe sounds like it was installed by a DIYer. Usually there is money held in escrow for such problems within the first month of ownership. It’s by state statutes snd varies by states.
 

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Did you call your realtor about the problem. As others stated the exhaust pipe is too small and had to be the problem from day one. A 2” pipe sounds like it was installed by a DIYer. Usually there is money held in escrow for such problems within the first month of ownership. It’s by state statutes snd varies by states.
I’m in PA. No such money is put into escrow. The seller was in commercial real estate management and had one of his commercial plumbers/HVAC companies install it. I contacted him, he claims he’s never had a chronic issue like this (could be lying of course). But if he’s being honest, and the 2” pipe has been there since day 1, how does it all of a sudden be a problem?
 

WorthFlorida

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2" pipe is acceptable according to the manual of your model. Each elbow equals 5 ft of length. I did read about the gas air auto mixture. It is quite a good manual on explaining things. You mentioned that it seems to happen on second stage (High Power Mode)? That means more gas and air is needed for combustion. I wonder if one of the sensors is out of tolerance? Have you read pages 58-60 of the manual? I was suspecting a wind problem and it is mentioned in the manual. But usually at night there is little wind and not always windy. If the air supply is down wind of the home, the air pressure is reduced at the inlet and may prevent enough air for good combustion. Sorry I cannot help further.

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NOC

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2" pipe is acceptable according to the manual of your model. Each elbow equals 1 ft of length. I did read about the gas air auto mixture. It is quite a good manual on explaining things. You mentioned that it seems to happen on second stage (High Power Mode)? That means more gas and air is needed for combustion. I wonder if one of the sensors is out of tolerance? Have you read pages 58-60 of the manual? I was suspecting a wind problem and it is mentioned in the manual. But usually at night there is little wind and not always windy. If the air supply is down wind of the home, the air pressure is reduced at the inlet and may prevent enough air for good combustion. Sorry I cannot help further.

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2" pipe is acceptable according to the manual of your model. Each elbow equals 1 ft of length. I did read about the gas air auto mixture. It is quite a good manual on explaining things. You mentioned that it seems to happen on second stage (High Power Mode)? That means more gas and air is needed for combustion. I wonder if one of the sensors is out of tolerance? Have you read pages 58-60 of the manual? I was suspecting a wind problem and it is mentioned in the manual. But usually at night there is little wind and not always windy. If the air supply is down wind of the home, the air pressure is reduced at the inlet and may prevent enough air for good combustion. Sorry I cannot help further.

View attachment 69497 View attachment 69498
I have read it extensively. It’s hard to know exactly how many elbows there are as much is hidden by Sheetrock in a finished basement. But it’s a row house and the distance from the appliance to the outside isn’t anywhere near 60’. Also, the intake is inside the utility area in the basement, meaning it’s just open on top, no piping and drawing inside air.
 

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Also, it could be a sensor. I’ve convinced B-W to replace the control board as a next step. And as far as the power is concerned, or stages, I’m not sure, but it does seem to vary. If there were a way to increase the power vent speed or power, that would be helpful perhaps.
 

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There is a intake filter mounted on the inlet of the fan two screws hold it on and check to see if theres a bird screen on the exhaust outlet.
 

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There is a intake filter mounted on the inlet of the fan two screws hold it on and check to see if theres a bird screen on the exhaust outlet.
The inlet was taken apart and checked, also checked to see if anything fell in or laying on the burner. There was a “T” at the end of the outlet with bird screens on both sides. B-W advised taking the T off as it could be blocking exhaust and driving it back down the vent pipe. I took it off and replaced with a 45 to no avail.
 

WorthFlorida

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It might be worth a try, in the basement crack open a window or door so there is plenty of air to be drawn into the space. A tight mechanical room could get starved of air when an exhaust fan is pushing air out.
 

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It might be worth a try, in the basement crack open a window or door so there is plenty of air to be drawn into the space. A tight mechanical room could get starved of air when an exhaust fan is pushing air out.
Unfortunately, there are no windows or doors to the outside in the basement.
 

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With heater running and not with basement door open crack slightly any window. See which way they air is moving. With heater on see if the basement door closes. Code calls for 1 sq inch per 1000 btu's free air. Look at page 32 in the install manual.
 

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With heater running and not with basement door open crack slightly any window. See which way they air is moving. With heater on see if the basement door closes. Code calls for 1 sq inch per 1000 btu's free air. Look at page 32 in the install manual.
I’ll have a look. There is no basement door, just stairs up to a 1st floor den. However, the heater is behind a set of louvered doors. I can try leaving those open.
 

Jeff H Young

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walk through it with Bradford White . I don't see where you answered pertinent questions asked by Worth Florida? just because a "tech" says vent is big enough don't mean a thing. What matters is if your vent meets spec. or not . cant really give answers too many unanswered questions regarding the installation and all those questions that I cant see your answer to that Worth Florida asked
 

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walk through it with bradford white . I dont see where you answered pertinant questions asked by Worth Florida? just because a "tech" says vent is big enough dont mean a thing. What matters is if your vent meets spec. or not . cant really give answers too many unanswered questions regarding the installation and all those questions that I cant see your answer to that Worth Florida asked
Ummm, I have walked through it with Bradford White. They’re going to get the contractor to try replacing the logic board under warranty, see if that fixes it. And I’ve answered any/all questions I can answer. The tech isn’t the one who said 2” is big enough, the contractor said the opposite, should be 3”. It’s the manual that says 2” is ok, depending on length. That said, there isn’t anything you’ve said above that’s particularly helpful, sounds more like trolling to me.
 

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Ummm, I have walked through it with Bradford White. They’re going to get the contractor to try replacing the logic board under warranty, see if that fixes it. And I’ve answered any/all questions I can answer. The tech isn’t the one who said 2” is big enough, the contractor said the opposite, should be 3”. It’s the manual that says 2” is ok, depending on length. That said, there isn’t anything you’ve said above that’s particularly helpful, sounds more like trolling to me.
didn't see you answered the 6 questions . So if the vent meets the sizing and its not plugged no reason to think about going bigger. a big basement doubt lack of combustion air . circuit board might be it and your changing it , so I wouldn't do anything till then. unless something looks wrong
 
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