Blogs from the old forum system.

[Taylor Love]

Spoiler: Appliance Repair Safety by: atlini334

Appliance Repair Safety

In servicing Appliance equipment, you must often expose Appliance components to observe the operation before you begin testing. Use reasonable caution and you should have no problem. Keep hands and fingers away from appliance moving belts and pulleys and from electrical connections. Do not wear loose clothing. Roll up your sleeves and take off your tie before removing the appliance service panels. Avoid cuts from sharp edges of stamped metal, particularly on the interior portions of appliances. Be sure all appliance panels are put back on the appliance machine when servicing is completed. If you must leave an appliance inoperative for any length of time, whether it's to get a tool from the workshop or to purchase a appliance repair part, be sure it's unplugged and that all water supply lines are turned off. Place a note on it to be sure that no one attempts to use it in the meantime. Lift with your legs and not with your back when it's necessary to move an appliance. Make a check of the appliance wiring harness and connections a part of every servicing and maintenance job you do. Replace or repair any broken or damaged appliance wiring and test the equipment for any leakage to ground before plugging it back in.
There's some danger in using any tool, even a hand tool. You would not, for instance, hold one hand behind a appliance screw while you tighten it with a screwdriver. Keep a secure grip on all tools and use them so that if they were to slip your hands could not fly into any sharp or moving parts of the appliance. Use goggles or glasses when you're operating a grinder, an electric drill, or any equipment where dust or flying particles is produced. Keep your fingers and hands away from drill bits and any moving parts on tools. Use all the protective devices with which your tools are equipped. Keep your work area clean and position yourself so that you're balanced and not likely to slip. Keep all your concentration focused on the appliance repair that you're doing. Be sure that your appliance repair tools and all equipment are in good shape, both electrically and appliance. And don't attempt to clean, adjust, or oil any appliance part of any appliance while it is running. Except for observations, it should always be unplugged and disconnected from the appliance power supply when the access panel is removed.
An awareness of the foregoing points while servicing home appliances offers you a good opportunity to improve the safety of your home appliances. Take note of broken or frayed cords and replace them. Check immediately any appliance situation that might produce an electrical shock. Check the grounding of all appliances.
In the appliance repair servicing procedures you should note that the recommended fists almost always advise use of resistance checks rather than voltage. This means that in all cases when the appliance is being tested serviced, the appliance cord is unplugged and it is disconnected from the electrical supply. In those very few cases where voltage checks are only method of making a test, we advise that the test prods of
If you have alligator clips attached. The appliance is then upsized, the clips are attached to the two terminals under test, the appliance plugged back in, and a reading taken. Then the appliance again unplugged before removing the clips. In these situations, the appliance repair procedure is made just as effective and much safer. In some cases such as testing a receptacle, test probs are sometimes inserted the receptacle for testing.

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Repair</a>

Spoiler: I need to find a handle for a very old Pegasus tub shower fixture. by: lbuilder

I bought a refurbished condo in LA...but the only thing refurbished in the tub shower plumbing was the handle which isn't the same brand...which won't stay on...other residents have taken out the whole fixture and replaced it. A plumbing company told me the original faucets were Pegasus and probably couldn't find parts for it. Where could I find one that will fit this older fixture. Or any other ideas on how to get another brand to stay on...

Spoiler: No hot or cold water in the laundry room lines. by: balanced

There is (hot-cold) water everywhere in the two story (3/3) five years old duplex in Florida (with no freezing pipes or temperatures) but in the laundry room. Everything looks new and was properly checked including valves at the water heater. Outside meter replaced and pressure reducer valve checked and readjusted. Faucets OK. When the cold line is back flushed with neighbor's water supply (after cutting off my main line), water is not coming from the outside spigots but from the hot line in the same laundry room, and vice-versa. Someone suggested that it may be faulty balanced valves. Where usually are the valves hidden?

Spoiler: Operate an electric hot water timer - help by: Patti Slane

have a great timer but need to set it at my desired settings. its a master plumber model 440016. searched everywhere, can't find instructions. turns fans on in rooms not in use. run out of hot water when i need it, etc.
anyone know how to set these things?
much appreciate any suggestions/help. patti

Spoiler: leaks by: JUAN MONTOYA

It is usually because of excessive velocity. Install a globe valve, stop valve, balancing cock, or whatever they are called in your area, (not a ball or gate valve), between the pump and the water heater, (and definitely not ahead of the pump). Then start turning it down until the pipe just stays warm. At that point you have the minimum flow to keep the system hot without exceeding the velocity needed to do it.

.........................///

Spoiler: water well pulling up large amounts of sand (PLEASE HELP!) by: jeff4982

ok guys i am new here and am badly in need of some advice.

I have been pulling sand from my well finding it coming out of the faucets as well as the back of the toilet tanks (large quantites). I had a well guy come out and he said that he could blow air down the well to open it up for 800 bucks no garentees that it will solve the problem or drill a new well deeper for 3500.

My issue is that my 4" well is 53 feet deep, all my neighbors are also 53 deep and they dont have any issues. I was told that due to the fact it is large amounts of sand/dirt coming thru that its not a screen issue. So what do i do to save money and save my appliances.

1) Blow it out and hope for the best?
2) drill a new well
3) try to find someone to service the well now or try to do it myself? ( i am having a difficult time finding anyone that will service or even look at this dang thing, i get the same answer from everyone NEW WELL with no explanation)


I had the same problem with mine. The pump was too close to the bottom of the hole. I realized this when lightning took out my pump. the well guy installed a new pump, and cut off a little of the plastic pipe removing the damaged pump. no problems since.


I have never had this problem, knock on wood. I have had the lightning striking the pump, I am sorry to say. I hope you got it fixed. Are there any water filters made for this problem?

Spoiler: Help! Need to tie in the kitchen sink drain. by: pzawodzinski

Terry ~ Iam a newbie at this in many ways!

I am in the midst of remodeling a cottage and a contractor started my plumbing but when things got a "little" tough baled for another job... I knew I only had them for a short time.

Anyway, I need to tie in the kitchen drain to my main sewer line under the house. The main sanitary "T" sits up a little high making it tough to get the right pitch with the floor joists in the way. My main line is about 20" off the wall and about 7' from where the kitchen sink will be. I can run straight diagonal 7' from the elbow below the floor (and below the 6" floor joist) but then only have 2 3/4" of clearance from the bottom of the joist to the top of sanitary "T". I planned to use 2" to 3" 'flat' reducer coupled with a street 90, but I think the 90 will come up too high to provide enough (if any) pitch from the start of the 7' run.

Any thoughts? (sorry, I know this may be touch to follow!)

-Paul

 

[Taylor Love]

Spoiler: 2 residences 1 well by: Li Lady

We have 2 residences on one well. Lately the breaker gets trip when one of the houses takes a shower. This house don't have the metal box where the well does directly too. What can cause it to trip when the other house don't trip the breaker

Spoiler: Balanceing Three Shower Tiles in a loop by: Stewart

Hello folks, Looking for assistance in connecting three Kohler Shower tiles in a loop to ensure the same flow through each. This shower system has five heads, one main, one handheld and the three tiles. The supply pipe is 3/4" to the Temp Control Valve then 3/4" to a Diverter Valve which directs the water, through 1/2" PEX to the afore meioned heads. The three tiles are in a triangular configuration, so that when your sitting on the bench you have two at your lower back and one at your upper middle.
In the attached diagram the pipe is all 1/2" Pex with brass elbows and tees. The tees go to drop ear fittings whic would then have nipples fitted for the head to attach to. I may be able to get rid of the elbows if I can get the PEX in a tight enough bend.
View attachment 13336

Thank you,
Stewart


PEX is a little undersized compared to copper.
Normally you run a loop in 3/4". However it may be that with the restricted shower heads it may work. The Kohler instructions seem a bit slim, without dimensions. It looks like a 1/2" loop. If you are on a loop, I don't think the distance is going to be critical.


Hi Terry, thank you for your response. I too thought the loop should be 3/4" but the supply from the Diverter valve is 1/2" so I stayed with that. Plus I didn't think I should go from 1/2" to 3/4", thought there would be to much of a reduction in pressure.
Thanks again,
Stewart


Increasing pipe size always increases flow.
Reducing pipe size restricts flow.

Pressure is always constant, but if you reduce pipe size, you increase friction. Have you ever tried drinking a milkshake through a tiny straw?

Most water meters are 3/4", but increasing the water service pipe to the home from 3/4" to 1-1/4" increases the usable water that can be used at one time.


Ok Gotcha, I'm clear on the 3/4" loop. The question that remains in my mind is; can I feed the loop with 1/2". The diverter valve has 1/2" threaded holes to connect the pipe, therefore I figured the Pipe from the diverter to the loop should be 1/2". What would the effects be if I feed the 3/4" loop with 1/2" supply? Or should I go with 3/4" right from the diverter?


You can feed 3/4" with the 1/2"
I'm not sure whether it's needed with three heads though. The Kohler specs don't give you much.
You will get more responces if this information was posted on the forum. I don't think anyone reads the blogs.

Spoiler: Whirlpool Flame Lock water heaters, reviews, troubleshooting, repair and support. by: master plumber mark

I have a Whirlpool Model. No. FG1F404053PV LP 40Gal. heater. Was made aware of the thermo couple problem via US mail after settlement of the lawsuit and got a replacement resetable thermo couple. It failed this afternoon as my daughter was taking a shower and the unlighted heater proceeded to fill the house with gas. When I got through to Whirlpool to tell them about the failure, the lady proceeded to tell me that I should call the local gas company about it. I asked her if the proper thing to do was to stand back, call the local propane dealer and watch my house blow up. Didn't faze her. I said put yourself in my place. What if it was your house? Nothing. I will replace this dangerous piece of crap at my own expence, but I will be the first to sign on to any suits regarding this. Someone is going to die or has died because of this calous attitude. Property is going to be lost. I pray that the record of my call is kept intact. It will prove beyond any shadow of a doubt that Whirlpool is negligent.

Spoiler: fire sprinkler main and backflow devise. by: LBJAMES

I have a customer that needs a 3" water service for a fire sprinkler system with a backflow devise. not sure what backflow devise or type of pipe to use.

Spoiler: Moen tub shower valve valve 1222 still drips/runs by: Copper116

I have a Moen posi-temp single handled tub-shower faucet. It takes the 1222 faucet cartridge. I first rebuilt the cartridge and it kept running a slow but steady stream of water. I bought a brand new replacement cartridge... and STILL it runs!!! Driving me crazy. I've got $50.00 into this now and no improvement.
Did I do something wrong? Is there a trick to the install, like a combination of twists adjustments I'm not aware of? The instruction sheet is worthless and in micro-print.
Any help would be appreciated.

Spoiler: Mansfield Silcock by: Steve Some

I have 2 identical hot and cold) Mansfield 500 silcocks /vacum breaker
installed side by side. Approx 20 yrs old The cold would not shut off.
I got a repair kit and handle kit. Repairing the stem pieces easy enough
but now I can't get the stem assembly to seat properly back into the
the silcock . therefore handle won't operate the valve. I take the same assembly I just repaired and it installs fine on the hot silcock side This leads me to believe that there is something in the internals of the silcock that is warn out? There is nothing more to replace ?
I also tried installing the hot side stem asembly( yes they are identical) into the cold one ,again no luck . Won't seat.

Spoiler: Smelly Copper kitchen sink by: Teenieree68

Help!!!!!
We have Pegasus copper kitchen sink. It smells terrible. Like the metal and not sewer gas. We have checked the plumbing under the sink with is only a one year old. Everything is fine with that. We have plugged both sides of the sink, so we know the smell in not coming from the plumbing. I clean the sink daily with dishwashing soap. We leave any dirt dishes on the counter and not in the sink. We also have a hammered copper sink in the bathroom. It never smells or stains. I think is must be sealed. What can we do to this sink to get rid of the smell.


Don't blame the copper! Pegasus sinks are imported and it is very difficult to know if there are impurities in the copper that might be leaching out and causing the smell. The imported sinks often tell you to dry the sink after each use and wax it periodically. Your sink in the bathroom is also imported and likely lacquered, hence no smell. You might try using a paste wax on the kitchen sink to see if that helps. I have made copper sinks using pure US virgin copper for 14 years - no smell.

This is a quote from the Pegasus use and care: It is recommended that cutting, preparing, or otherwise allowing acidic foods to come into contact with the copper sink be kept to a minimum. This is because acidic substances chemically react to the copper if left in contact with it over a period of time. Such acidic foods include tomatoes, citrus fruits, and citrus juices. The solution to safely handling these foods in a copper sink is to run warm water while cutting, cleaning, or preparing them. Applying a gentle car or brass wax will maintain the natural, gleaming color of the copper sink.

Spoiler: New toilet for teenage boys bathroom by: mwhite

I'm replacing an upstairs bathroom toilet used by 3 teenage boys....want one that has a big flush, doesn't clog and CLEANS THE BOWL COMPLETELY. (1 yr ago we purchased a toto aquia II dual flush for our main floor powder room and I HATE that toilet, bowl never comes clean and doesn't even flush away urine. So dont want to make another mistake) Any sugggestions?


I like the Drake II for that.
Or the Vespin II if you want a skirted bowl.
I sell more Vespins now.


Toto's double cyclone technology will work, so will Inax's double vortex, vortex, and direct vortex. If you liked the idea of dual max, the Maris HET combines dual max with double cyclone.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Taylor Love]

Spoiler: The Plumbing Supply System by: sananto267

The Plumbing Supply System

A well-designed plumbing distribution system doesn't just deliver water to the points of need. It also delivers reasonably constant water temperature and pressure. Such a plumbing system will not only promote harmony between spouses but will also serve as a selling point when the home is on the market. Learn how to design and install the two most common water plumbing distribution systems and a system of your own design. Find also plumbing installation aids, plumbing common problems, and plumbing solutions. Read how to design a plumbing system that keeps the water quiet no more rushing-water noise in the walls or hammer noise coming from the plumbing pipes when someone turns off the faucet.
A well-designed plumbing water supply system can deliver a good high-power spray in the shower; a poor one, only a dribble.

How Water Gets Routed through a House
Before you start working with a house plumbing lines, you need to know three things:
First, how to recognize a poorly designed plumbing system so you won't be sure with added problems down the road.
Second, how to design and install a proper plumbing system.
And last, what part of the plumbing water line to tee into when adding on. Teeing into a poorly designed plumbing system teeing in at the wrong place in a well-designed plumbing system can lead to major problems.

The Series Plumbing System
The Plumbing series system is the one we see most often. This plumbing design attempts to give the best water distribution for the money using just one main feed. Because there is only one main plumbing feed, you will have to put design plumbing rules
1 Drain and vent plumbing lines have priority over water lines. Run all drain and vent plumbing lines first
2 Keep water plumbing lines out of the outside wall in climates that freeze. Instead, run lines up through the floor (or under the slab) to get to the fixture.
3 All shutoff plumbing valves in the main plumbing water line, and taps to fixtures, hot or cold, should be ball valves.
4 All under-sink shutoff plumbing valves (aka stop valves or fixture plumbing shutoff valves) should also be ball valves (quarter turn) The common plumbing valves that are usually installed under the fixture have a habit of sticking and leaking with occasional loss of pressure and a few hot/cold spurts when water is used in more than one location at the same time.
The design of a basic plumbing series system is simple it uses X-in. pipe from the point where water enters the house and for the main nin through out. Because the plumbing pipe feeds more than one fixture, its diameter should be X-in. Then X-in. plumbing pipe is used to feed only singular fixtures, with the exception of undercounter taps, such as a dishwasher feeding off the kitchen faucet line.
In a poorly designed plumbing series system, you will typically see Y-in. plumbing pipe everywhere—even for the main line runs. It is this mistake that gives series plumbing installations a bad name. If during a renovation you inherit this type of installation, you will need to replace all main plumbing water lines with y-in. pipe.
Only the taps to the fixtures should remain Y-in. pipe.
One of the biggest drawbacks of the series plumbing system is its problem with velocity. With all the house water flowing through a single plumbing pipe, the velocity tends to get too high, which creates noise and erodes metal fittings, especially those made of copper and brass.
San Antonio Plumbing Services

We are open 24 hours a day 7 days a week. We specialize in Plumbing Services and Repair, Toilet Plumbing Repairs, Sewer and Drain Cleaning, Water Heater Repairs, Plumbing Valve Repairs, Sink and Faucet Plumbing, Bathtub and Shower Plumbing, Water and Gas Leak Detection, Pipe and Hose Repair and Replacement and Disposal Repair. We service entire San Antonio County and our estimates are Free.

Call toll Free: 210 688-1463

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<a href="http://www.sanantonioplumbingservices.com/"> San Antonio Plumbing Services</a>

Spoiler: Need sponge seat and spacers for a Funky Aqualine toilet by: stroh1940

I replaced the damn "dam" on an Aqualine toilet. The seat gasket and two side spacers were damaged. The numbers inside the tank are:
'1852
4 22 92

Where can I buy replacement parts?

Thanks,

Jim

Spoiler: Remove Space Heater in basement-and cap off gas line by: valhoho

Hello everyone, I am the wife of a stubborn man. I am wondering if someone would let me know the best way to remove a gas - hard lined basement space heater and cap it off. I want to hire someone to do it since my husband is a truck driver, not a plumber. I have called to get some quotes and it is going to run at least $150. The heater is only about 3ft high x2W x2L. Husband states it should only cost 50 at the most to get a cap, saw and mud???

Spoiler: rheem power vent2 by: badluckguy

badluckguy;306821]Plz help... I don't know wats wrong with my boiler. I noticed that I wast getting cold water now for three days. And no hot water at all.. so after three days I finaly reset it .. ( I unplug it) it turned on an everything was fine but it just stays on for 2mins. Then it turns off. Then I hear several clicking noises but the burner won't turn on .after several clicking noises the led light turns on an it flashes 4 times .. then it pauses then it flashes again 4 more times.. What should I do .....

 

[Taylor Love]

Spoiler: Purchasing New Water softner/filter by: DJS1

I am exhausted looking at softners and filters. Want a reliable softner and prefer salt free IF possible. Hard water an issue in San Antonio. House has lines for softner but never had one installed. Built circa 1979. Notice the crusting at times on faucets and shower heads. Looking for suggestions for what type to purchase. Looked at Nu Vo as well as other models. At my age prefer not lifting a salt bag! Any comments appreciated. I have had a salt water softner in other houses. Advanced thanks to all for any comments.


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Spoiler: Converting steam boiler system to hydronic boiler system...can pipes be reused? by: norton55

My church is considering converting its 60-year-old steam boiler to a staged hydronic boiler system. One contractor said he could reuse nearly all of the pipes that were used to heat the Sanctuary. Three other contractors would put in all new pipes. The cost more than doubles with all new pipes. Could the old pipes be reused? What factors should be considered? Thanks for your help!

Spoiler: New Setup installed today and still want more pressure... Myer HJ75D by: larryruest

Hi, Finally found a kick*** forum about what I had researched for weeks...I had upgraded today from a 1/2 hp 30 year old twin type deep well jetpump / an old steal tank to a myers hj75D deep well jet pump and a fiberglass 30 gallon air pressure tank...

First of all in the myers jetpump instruction it was only talking about 20 - 40 psi / 30 - 50 psi setup... I want the most pressure possible since I have a house with three levels and the main bathroom is on level 3... On level 3 there is not a lot of pressure but on ground 0 (basement) there is a lot of pressure... Piping is a factor here since I have copper pipes which are really small and a lot of 90 degrees....

So I wanted to go with the 40 - 60 psi setup (screw myers handbook)

So I inflated the tank to 36 PSI as recommended in the tank handbook.

I hooked that all up and the pressure was set to 20 - 40 on the pump. So I played with the screws and now it is set to 34 - 58.... I tried to put it around 60 or 61 but the pump runs a lot of time before getting to 60... Is that normal?

Also the screw on the regulator, I tighted it too much and there was no water coming out at all fom the sink... How can I set this up? Is that a factor on how much pressure I can get?

What is the average time a pump should run between cycle? My pump if it is running and there is water continuously flowing, it looks like it would never stop...

Also the gauge when the pump run is oscilating and is not steady like the gauge i' ve seen online...


Would you have any recommendation? If I could raise it higher than 60 PSI, I would be really happy since the presure upstaires will make sense.....

 

[Taylor Love]

Spoiler: Dribbling water by: taz110

Hi all,
From the shower (hot side ,cold side and diverter on tub spout) I would turn on the hot and cold sides,and within a second or two water would dribble/flow weakly out of the shower head before the diverter in the tub spout was pulled up to shower mode. These things i did check if helps: All piping is 1/2" copper from shower valve to shower head, 48" from shower head to hot and cold assembly/valves. Could it possibly be the plastic diverter valve inside the tub spout? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you

Spoiler: Sink sprayer problem by: Bill Booker

Have worked on this for over a week now, tired. When using the sink sprayer my water comes from spout and sprayer in equal amounts, have cleaned all inside parts and replaced the diverter with no help for correction, this is a single handle Delta faucet with spray on side. Need help. This is by far the best answer forum i have run across. Thanks, Bill


Bill, I'm having the same problem with my sprayer. Did you figure out what was wrong?? Mine may be the same as yours. Thanks

Spoiler: For anyone with water in basement troubles by: jeeprolet

Im just posting this to let everyone know that i know a guy that came up with a solution to water problems and ive seen it working all over the place and havent seen one that didnt work yet, just go on google and search for lawerence Rehaluk and click the link that says a new twist on a old idea and he has all your solutions if you need to call him his number is 1-306-782-3582.

Spoiler: When are pressure balancing loops necessary? by: MKeel

I have been reading a lot about pressure balancing loops and some say you absolultey need them if you are using more than two body sprays, while others say they are a complete waste of time and money. I am installing two body sprays in my shower and need some help figuring this out. I was thinking about just teeing off the supply line from the 3-way transfer valve and connecting a female adapter at each end. If this is not correct, then how should I proceed to plumb these body sprays in a balancing loop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Spoiler: Pressure problems by: Rodney

Ran out of water had load delivered have 20 ft of water above foot valve. Put new foot vale on filled line with water as well as line going into house.\
Shallow well jet pump. When I prime pump after several tries get up to 25lbs can no get any higher

Spoiler: Two water well motors in a month. by: Janice McMullin Loomis

We have a one year old water well for watering our 12 zone yard. Just a month ago it stopped working so we replaced the submersible 1 hp Wellsub pump, pressure tank and pressure switch. I worked for about two weeks and now the submersible pump motor is burned up? The tank pressure is set at 38 psi and the pressure switch is a 40/60 the well is 70 ft deep with the pump at 60 ft. Any ideas on what is causing the motors to go out?

Spoiler: Continually draining by: gloch

Thanks for the reply. I thought the same thing. It felt liek we were being sold a bridge

With this system, do you think he was off-base in telling me it couldn't handle the usage?

-gl

What kind of water quality do you have?
Almost sounds like some one trying to make a sale of equipment...but that is just me.

Spoiler: lost water pressure in my whole house after install of a dishwasher??? by: ncrehm3280

ok here's the deal, I have no clue what happened, my girlfriends dad and I installed a dishwaher, onto an existing line under my sink, the pipe cement he was trying to use and let set up, kept blowing off, and we would have to do it all over again, this was on standard PVC, straight from the dishwasher to the line under the sink, after this happened so many times, i became frustrated, we turned the water off for the night, essentially the water pressure was fine until this point, so i found the lines that led to the sink and kept them off all night, we seemed to have lost pressure already, the next morning I went out and bought a Sharkbite T and took out and replaced the crap job he did, and then turned the water back on completely again, still had horrible water pressure, i've looked to see if there are leaks, there are none, i've tried re-pressurizing numerous times, i.e. pulling all the knobs out on the sinks and tub letting the air to come out, then turning the water back on, from top floor to bottom floor, and vice versa.. none of this seems to work, we still have no pressure, and it all started when we installed the dang thing, any suggestions.. i did find a little sediment in my sinks and the back of my toilet, i'm hooked to city water, and i do not have a PRV in my lines anywhere, it comes from the street, to the water mainline in the basement, to the main on/off valve, and then to the water reader, where there is another valve that needs open for the water to be full, so if you have any idea whatsoever, it would be great, like i said no leaks, just no pressure in the house, well just enough to shower, and flush the toilet, which i might add takes forever to refill.. Please suggestions..

Spoiler: Dirty water after installing new submersible pump with a lot of water usage by: dixiesrebelrose

My former pump was in the basement. When it died, the plumber installed a submersible pump in the well of aprox. 120 ft. He said I should have more water pressure. I do not. He said the water would be dirty for a couple days. If I use a lot of water, (washing 4 loads of clothes or watering my garden) the water will become dirty. When the water would not come into the washing machine I called the plumber and he did not return my call. I had to have a service person come and unstop the strainer in the line. I did not associate it with watering my garden (16 x 20) since it had been several days. A few weeks later after watering the garden, I washed immediately. On the second load there was no water. I could not afford another service call so I called the technician and he told me how to clean the strainer myself. I do not have good water pressure. I think there is dirt in all my spigots. I have asked around about this problem and all the answers were that the pump is placed to close to the bottom of the well. I was told that the pump should be raised 6 inches to 10 feet. Is this the correct solution before I take some action with the plumber? Will the dirt affect my water tank and hot water heater? Should they be flushed?

Spoiler: Fitting new showerhead to odd-sized (old?) elbow by: drainpiper

I need to install a handheld shower head in my bathtub, but the measurement of the elbow seems to be 11/16 of an inch. Since all new shower heads are 1/2 inch, is there some sort of adapter that will solve my problem?

Spoiler: how to connect well waterfor house use and irrigation system by: paige

Have a deep well for house use and now want to connect into the system to use for irrigation watering but do not want to run the water through the aerator tank What wil I need and how do I do this.
Thanks for your help.

Spoiler: Duct system by: Suzcc

I had my duct work insulated. The seams were sprayed with a product by Dow - called great stuff for gaps and cracks, and then the ducts were wrapped with insulation. Since then, I can't use the system due to a terrible chemical smell when it comes on. I called Dow and they said the product max temperature rating is 240 degrees. The insulation company tells me this is not the problem. Can you tell me if it is the problem?
Thanks for your help.
S D

Spoiler: Water flow is greatly restriced..... by: TommyT

For some reason if I turn on the water on either hot or cold full blast in the bathroom faucet after about 2 to 3 seconds the flow is reduced to a trickle....what is causing this?

Spoiler: Lead Drain Pipe Removal by: LeadLady

Terry...Love your website
Have 6'x5' Bathroom
Tub at 9PM
CI Stack at 1PM
Toilet at 2PM
Vanity Sink at 3PM (lead drain + H & C supply in 4 1/4"ceramic wall tile
House built in 1954...All Lead drains
Looking for Safer Alternatives to remove Lead (NO TORCHING)
Without touching CI Stack
Tore out mosaic tile flooring, concrete and wire lath
(used cold chisel, mini sledge hammer and wet towels)...NO Jackhammer
took all summer, no problem, it was fun
I have a licensed, insured Plumber...wants to Torch (low heat) to remove Lead
Maybe low heat will soften lead for easier removal ?
Trying to find a Plumber willing to work with me to complete this job using Safer methods
I know I can remove the Lead and Oakum if someone shows me HOW 2
Asked Uncle Robert (86 yrs old) Master Plumber, but he doesn't Remember HOW 2
I am a Retired Lady who has always been interested in Plumbing
Everyone thinks I am crazy, maybe so, but I know there is a Safer Way
If you know of any Plumbers in PA 19405 who can HELP
please let me know
I Thank You for your time and look forward to hearing from you

 

[Taylor Love]

Spoiler: Advice on wells/pumps by: mns

We are constructing a new home - 5 bedroom, 5.5 bath, two laundry rooms,etc. We have a well where we have a flow of 2 GPM at 700 ft. The well is 900 ft deep. We have received conflicting advice on conventional and constant pressure systems and are unable to decide how to proceed. It's a 2-acre lot so there will be a need for a sprinkler system in the future for the lawn (a portion of the lot will have a lawn).

What would your advice be for the design of a pump/motor system for a house of this kind? The house will be about 6000 sq. ft on two levels with a finished basement of another 2000 sq. ft with a bedroom, bathroom and wet bar...

Thanks much,
MG

Spoiler: Replacing my sub flooring on my house on blocks. by: pawpawwa

I am about to embark on replacing my sub flooring in my house. I have a house on blocks and want on get help on whether to use treated plywood or just tongue and groove plywood. I am also wondering if I should use some tar paper under my sub flooring on top of my joists. I plan to put tongue and groove oak on top of my plywood and would appreciate any help with how I should proceed. Thanks

Spoiler: Adding a closed loop solar hot water system to a tankless hot water/boiler system. by: MikeP860

I am in the process of building my own closed loop, glycol, hot water sytem to preheat water BEFORE it enters my current, tankless, boiler system. I am in great shape with regards to the system. The cold, well, water enters the boiler system from a copper tee connection, just above the boiler system. The cold potable water continues on this common pipe through the house.

I want to put the 50 gallon, hot water storage tank, roughly 10 feet from the boiler, as close to where the collector pipes come in to the house as possible. Would I be correct to remove the cold water entry from where it is tee'd now, make another tee connection near the hot water storage tank, on the common cold water entry, and cap off the current tee? I am thiunking this is the right way, I just need some assurance.

Also, if I do run pre-heated warm water to the boiler system (roughly 110 degree), instead of 40 degree well water, will I realize much of a savings on my oil consumption? Will I blow the thing up?

Spoiler: Cast iron radiators by: bagallop

I replaced shut off valves on half the radiators in the house. After system start up bled air from all. They seemed to heat properly. Now I have one that gets luke warm on discharge side only, while the radiator gets warm on top, cold at bottom. Does not appear to be air bound as I get water immediately. Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Spoiler: Water Ridge High-Efficiency Dual Flush Model 533515 - COSTCO by: billtell

I have two of these toilets and they work extremely well. The poo button (bigger flush) is unnecessary for poo 99% of the time. Maybe we have small poos

The information by some people on another blog on this site is patently false. I don't understand why they would try to discredit the Water Ridge brand. Is it because these toilets are made in China? Is it because they want to sell more expensive toilets? Is it because they want to make themselves seem expert? Who knows?

Don't pay attention to them.

I called Costco Customer Service 866.789.2273 and was told the toilets have a lifetime guarantee. They also said parts are readily available.

I replaced two water efficient American Standard toilets that stopped working properly (they used more and more water). I wound up replacing the inner workings but they still were not satisfactory. So things can happen to any brand.

As I said my Water Ridge 533515 toilets work perfectly.

Spoiler: Water is salty after reffilling softner!Help? by: jdw3

What brand of softener is it? Some manufacturers have refill as the initial cycle (dry storage) as opposed to the last cycle (wet storage).
RJ

I'm having the same problem in my Kenmore softener. It keeps regenerating and not removing the water from the tank.

Spoiler: Automatic water circulation by: Mark777

Hi I have hot water baseboard heat with a tankless water heater. The hot water automatically circulates through the heating loop without the pump running. I've had this problem before and had to use a zone valve to remedy the problem. Is there a cheaper solution to this problem?
Thanks

Spoiler: Flange too High? by: Bill411

I'm in the process of installing a new Drake CST744S toilet. A new floor was installed leaving the original flange 1/34" below finished floor. I reworked the flange to try to get it level with the floor, however, it ended up just slightly too high, about 1/16". When I place the toilet on the flange/floor it just about fits level, but rocks just ever so slightly. A couple of shims with get it level. Since the "Drake" only has a 3/4" lip it doesn't give any extra room for flange variance if it's a little too high. My question is, if I set this with a wax ring will it seal correctly or is the flange just slightly too high? it's almost too hard to tell if the stool is resting at all on the flange or the floor is just a little uneven.

Spoiler: Which Latex Primer works best with drywall mud compound for a Kerdi installation. by: johnfrwhipple

Post(s) deleted by John Whipple


Post(s) deleted by John Whipple

Spoiler: firefighter by: firefighter

I have a shower in my basement which has a concrete floor. I tore out the shower stall and now am trying to replace the drain which has lead around the PVC pipe. I have tried everything to remove the lead without breaking the plactic pipe. Any ideas would be helpful

Spoiler: Copper Diameter and Pressure by: Hackney plumbing

quote; the galvy pipe being fulla rust. Rust will cause friction that will reduce pressure but at the same time its restricting the volume. This is why you can run one fixture without any issue.......

I do not see anything in the original posting which even mentions galvanized pipes. The problem is undersized main lines. 3/4" copper will probably give you the best results. 1" would be much more expensive and while it has the potential to deliver more volume, you probably do not have any application which would need it, or could use it.

Yes your right,I was reading another thread and just posted to the wrong thread,sorry.


A standard one-bath home with kitchen sink, dishwasher, water heater, clothes-washer, 1.6 tank toilet, lavatory, tub/shower combo and two hose bibs would be counted as 18 fixture units.
Most standard two bath homes consisting of kitchen sink, dishwasher, water heater, clothes-washer, two 1.6 tank toilet, two lavatories, one shower, one tub/shower combo, and two hose bibs would be counted as 23.5 fixture units.
Most standard three bath homes consisting of kitchen sink, dishwasher, water heater, clothes-washer, three 1.6 tank toilet, four lavatories, two showers, one tub/shower combo, one whirlpool bath and two hose bibs would be counted as 34 fixture units.

Spoiler: Toilet venting for Reno by: renovent

Hey All. Working on a reno in my basement. Had the basement dug down during the summer and the rough in for the new bathroom installed. There is a venting pipe beside the toilet drain that is currently capped. I'm unsure if this needs to be connected to something (main stack) or extended and vented to the outside? The contractor said it "just sits in the wall" but after reading about venting this doesn't sound correct. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Waste pipes go down, and vent pipes go up through the roof.
Has your contractor "pulled" a permit for this job yet? And where has he posted his permit?
Have you checked to see if you have enough clearance around your plumbing fixtures?
A toilet of lav needs a 30" space.

Here is a typical drawing of two bathrooms stacked.

 

[Taylor Love]

http://pastebin.com/guh9hM5d

^Here is a paste of the rest of them. Can only post 10k characters per post or something. Just use this link. My post count is already super inflated by now.