Bathroom sink drain issue

[RyanP]

I'm doing a remodel job in my guest bathroom and had a question about the sink drain. The house was built in 1952.

Where the drain pipe bent to come out of the wall, there was a junction that was basically taped together with what looked like wide electrical tape. From what I've read in these forums on the topic, that seems to be an acceptable way to have handled it. However, that junction was weak, so I took it apart. Now I'm left with a pipe that barely makes the turn and is not in great condition.

As an added bonus, a little bit down from the bend, there's a hole in the top of the drain pipe. I'm not sure what the pipe is made of--it seems like some kind of metal, though it's weird how the hole on the top sort of crumbles.

Changing out the whole pipe seems over my head because where it connects to the main pipe seems very solid (but if that's an option, I'd love to know it). So I'm curious if there's a possible fix without replacing the pipe (or do I just need to tape a pipe back on like it used to be, which just doesn't seem ideal).

I'll try to paste a link to the photos, but I haven't had luck with that in the past, Thanks!!
Ryan

 

[Redwood]

Electrical tape is not an acceptable repair.
The pipe is lead and the joint at the cast iron is a wiped joint.
It must be replaced I'll post again in a few with how to repair.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Redwood]

I found what I was looking for but the accompanying photos were taken off. Still its a good description its what I would do.

https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4827

for the coupling use a Fernco Pro-Flex #3000-215 to join the 1 1/2" PVC to the brass ferrule.

Problem is your ferrule is right at the 2X4 see where the bump in the lead is.

 

[RyanP]

Thanks a lot, Redwood! That's some great information. I'm sad those photos are gone, but it's still very educational. I'm nervous about melting the lead, but I guess I'll have to go for it. I appreciate it!
Ryan

 

[Redwood]

Here are a few products that I would recommend to you for this

I also like Cool-Gel!

Also keep a fire extinguisher and a water spray bottle on hand.
Remember the breass ferrule is held into the cast iron with a lead poured joint you do not want to melt that.

I notice that you have another one on the other side, are you going to do a preemptive strike oh that as well while the wall is open?
I would!

 

[hj]

joint

I would not recommend a transition coupling for a repair. The ferrule is tapered so any movement would loosen the "no-hub" coupling. There are several ways to make a connection once the ferrule is out of the hub, but a DIY'er does not have the equipment, knowledge, or experience to make any of them.

 

[RyanP]

Thanks again, Redwood...as for the other side, I'm pretty sure that the one on the other side just dead ends (there was a kitchen added on the opposite side of the tub, so maybe the previous owner somehow ran the tub into a newer drain system. I can't remember how he sealed that side, but I think the pipe stops right about where you see it in the photo (it doesn't go much further than the edge of the photo, I mean).

So it's sounding like it might be best to call in a professional. I'm not even sure where the brass ferrule comes into play in the photos, so that's probably a good indicator I'm in over my head! I do appreciate all your help though!
Ryan

 

[NHmaster]

This is defiantly not a home owner repair. To do it right the lead trap arm should be removed from the Cast Iron stack fitting and then transitioned to PVC. Call a licensed plumber.