Basement Leveling Help!

Discussion in 'Remodel Forum & Blog' started by brokenbricks, Jun 29, 2010.

  1. brokenbricks

    brokenbricks New Member

    Jun 29, 2010
    I have had some water damage in my finished basement so I had to gut just about everything. I have fixed the water issue and now am in the process of redoing it before my first child is born, so I am in a bit of a time crunch. The basement area that needs to be leveled is about 10 x 18 and is about 3" unlevel. I want to put down DriCore subfloor system but think I should probably level the floor first, and want to try and do it on my own. I see that DriCore sells a leveling kit so you can raise the panels to any height. I have also read about self leveling products but am stuck as to which is the easiest way to go as time is an issue. It is also framed all around so I am thinking that might come into an issue at some point and I am hoping I can leave the studs on the bottom in tact.

    If anyone has any suggestions that would be great.

  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Aug 31, 2004
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    3" unlevel? Is this the Leaning Tower of Pisa? That is probably too thick at the "deep end" for any topping product, but to shallow at the other sider for anything BUT a topping material.
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  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Sep 2, 2004
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    New England
    The fastest, but probably most expensive, would be self-leveling-cement (SLC). To save some on costs, you'd use some pea gravel on the deep end to minimize the amount of slc you needed. You'd probably want to add some blocking between the studs for attaching the bottom of whatever sheet material you are going to put up, since at 3", the bottom stringer would be covered. You'd need to seal under the studwall to keep it from running underneath, and at the doorway to keep it from running out. This can get really complicated if there's a stairway involved, since you'd be changing the height of the last step, which can get you into safety and code issues. You'd also need it so that the slc didn't run behind the wall. Some of the slc materials can be poured as deep as 5" - check the instructions carefully.

    This is NOT something you want to do without some help. SLC can start to set in as little as 10-minutes. You want to mix and pour the stuff as fast as you can, and this takes preplanning. A big enough bucket to mix two bags at a time; water pre-measured in batch sets, a 1/2" or larger drill with the appropriate mixing paddle (or buy a drum specifically made for this - you fill it up, then roll it around for 3-minutes or so (a pain, but it works!). You want at least 3 and more people if possible. One to be mixing, and two to help carry and pour the stuff. If you have more, you can be mixing multiple batches at the same time, or use one of the people to set up the next pour by measuring the water and opening the bags - it only takes a little bit of time to pour, but then you may need to help it around into the corners. There're lots of threads on slc at for some more insight on using the stuff.
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