AquaSource Garner, Gap between shower valve cover and wall

[Andy Westmoreland]

I recently had an AquaSource Garner Brushed Nickel Pvd 1-Handle Tub and Shower Valve (Lowe's Item #: 40252 | Model #: 873-3804) installed.

Should the valve cover be this far from the wall (see image, below)?
(Animated version showing amount of play here: http://i.imgur.com/W0Vyqay.gifv )

There's a spongy, waterproof seal behind it (like a gasket) but there are no screws or anything to pull/hold the cover closer to the shower cubicle wall.

Thanks for any feedback you can give.

 

[Plumber69]

I recently had an AquaSource Garner Brushed Nickel Pvd 1-Handle Tub and Shower Valve (Lowe's Item #: 40252 | Model #: 873-3804) installed.

Should the valve cover be this far from the wall (see image, below)?
(Animated version showing amount of play here: http://i.imgur.com/W0Vyqay.gifv )

There's a spongy, waterproof seal behind it (like a gasket) but there are no screws or anything to pull/hold the cover closer to the shower cubicle wall.

Thanks for any feedback you can give.

Someone lost the screws. There about 3 inches long. Usually the same ones are use to hold that black gaurds that was on during rough in

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Plumber69]

Someone lost the screws. There about 3 inches long. Usually the same ones are use to hold that black gaurds that was on during rough in

Maybe it's still on there

 

[Andy Westmoreland]

Someone lost the screws. There about 3 inches long. Usually the same ones are use to hold that black gaurds that was on during rough in

Thanks for the quick response!

I've seen the screws you're talking about along with the black guard (they're in the box the fixture came in) but there aren't any holes in the valve cover where you'd typically expect them to go.

Your suggestion sounded plausible though so I brought up the installation instructions online, but they don't mention anything about it.
http://pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/6925699900728_install.pdf

I'm wondering if the faucet itself is what presses the cover against the wall, and - because of the pipe length - it's too far away from the wall to do that?

 

[Terry]

9. Position the escutcheon (E) over the valve body (D). Attach the handle assembly (F) by threading the base of the handle assembly (F) onto the valve stem of the valve body (D) and twisting clockwise until secure. Do not overtighten the handle assembly (F) as this could damage the escutcheon (E).

 

[Andy Westmoreland]

9. Position the escutcheon (E) over the valve body (D). Attach the handle assembly (F) by threading the base of the handle assembly (F) onto the valve stem of the valve body (D) and twisting clockwise until secure. Do not overtighten the handle assembly (F) as this could damage the escutcheon (E).

Are you suggesting the handle could just be twisted tighter? I haven't tried it (I wasn't the one who installed it), but I will; I just assumed it was on as tight as it would go.

 

[Terry]

You have to at least try it.

 

[Sluggo]

I hate to say this, but one other possibility is that the valve was installed a little too close to the finished surface and there may be no room left for further adjustment. You can figure if this is so by removing the handle and escutcheon, measuring the depth of the valve, and comparing it to the parameters that are shown on the installation sheet for the valve...Recommended valve depth to finished wall: 2" min., 2-1/2" max.

 

[Plumber69]

I hate to say this, but one other possibility is that the valve was installed a little too close to the finished surface and there may be no room left for further adjustment. You can figure if this is so by removing the handle and escutcheon, measuring the depth of the valve, and comparing it to the parameters that are shown on the installation sheet for the valve...Recommended valve depth to finished wall: 2" min., 2-1/2" max.

If this was the case he could always remove the foam gasket.. Load it with silicone and drywall tape it till it settles. I think it would be flush then

 

[Sluggo]

Yes, I thought of that, too. A little hard to remove in the future if siliconed, but a lot better than the leak magnet it is now!

 

[Plumber69]

Yes, I thought of that, too. A little hard to remove in the future if siliconed, but a lot better than the leak magnet it is now!

A lot of people seem to think silicone is hard to remove.... it really isnt

 

[Andy Westmoreland]

I hate to say this, but one other possibility is that the valve was installed a little too close to the finished surface and there may be no room left for further adjustment.

You're right, Sluggo! Looking more closely at this, I can see there's about 1.5" of play in the thread of the handle, but even at its tightest, it doesn't come close to touching the cover. Am I correct in thinking the threaded portion of this valve should end about level with the wall surface?

The second image shows the shower at rough-in stage. I'm thinking at this point, the only option is to cut an access hole in the rear wall, remove one of those cross-braced 2x4s, and reattach the valve. Do you agree?

 

[Plumber69]

You're right, Sluggo! Looking more closely at this, I can see there's about 1.5" of play in the thread of the handle, but even at its tightest, it doesn't come close to touching the cover. Am I correct in thinking the threaded portion of this valve should end about level with the wall surface?

The second image shows the shower at rough-in stage. I'm thinking at this point, the only option is to cut an access hole in the rear wall, remove one of those cross-braced 2x4s, and reattach the valve. Do you agree?

View attachment 31603 View attachment 31604

 

[Plumber69]

You're right, Sluggo! Looking more closely at this, I can see there's about 1.5" of play in the thread of the handle, but even at its tightest, it doesn't come close to touching the cover. Am I correct in thinking the threaded portion of this valve should end about level with the wall surface?

The second image shows the shower at rough-in stage. I'm thinking at this point, the only option is to cut an access hole in the rear wall, remove one of those cross-braced 2x4s, and reattach the valve. Do you agree?

View attachment 31603 View attachment 31604

If that's a tub shower you can't run pex to the spout or water will come out spout and shower head at same time

 

[Andy Westmoreland]

If that's a tub shower you can't run pex to the spout or water will come out spout and shower head at same time

There's a diverter in the tub spout which blocks the water and sends it back up the pipe. It passed plumbing inspections, so I have to assume that mechanically it's all sound.

 

[Terry]

If that's a tub shower you can't run pex to the spout or water will come out spout and shower head at same time

I concur. All instructions warn about using PEX to a tub spout. The size is too small, therefore forcing water out of the shower head while running the tub.

You can either put a space behind the wall plate on the valve, or move the board back.

 

[Andy Westmoreland]

I concur. All instructions warn about using PEX to a tub spout. The size is too small, therefore forcing water out of the shower head while running the tub.

Ah, I misunderstood what Plumber69 was saying. I haven't noticed the problem, but to be honest I haven't played with it a ton. Maybe my the low pressure at this house will save me there.

Still, too late now; the wall has been cut open and re-sealed. Here's what the install looks like now.



Thanks for helping me think/talk this through, guys. Much appreciated!