Adding Sediment and Iron Filter - Recommendations/Verify My Item List

[janders5006]

I've been running my self installed water softener for a year and a half now and it recently stopped working. Turns out the screens were blocked with what the repair man said was iron. Cleaned those out and water is soft again. He recommended an iron filter. Since I installed the system myself (but didn't know what to troubleshoot outside of checking for salt bridge) I want to try and add the required filters. In looking online my plan is to purchase the following and running in series with a bypass before my Fleck 5810SXT 80k grain softener.

2 x 20" Big Blue Housings w/1" inlet and pressure relief valve #150233
1 x DGD-5005-20 Dual Gradient Sediment Cartridge #155358
1 x RFFE20-BB Iron Reduction Cartridge #155263

Does this sound like a good plan or are there other recommendations? Should I add a 3rd Carbon or other filter?

For reference I posted my original water test results in my first asking about the softener settings: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....need-additional-filtration.81714/#post-590306


These are from a year and a half ago:

Total Hardness: 580 mg/l 33.918 grains per gallon
Compensated Hardness: 34.178
Iron: 0.13 mg/l
ph: 7.16
Sodium: 246mg/l 14.39 gpg
Total Dissolved Solids: 826 mg/l 48.304 gpg

Chloride: 370 mg/l
Sulfate: 20 mg/l
Nitrate: <2 mg/l
Alkalinity: 430 mg/l

 

[Skyjumper]

0.13 ppm iron? you don't need an iron filter. you don't want an iron filter. just use resin cleaners to clean the entrapped iron from your softener. Rescare and citric acid (or a combination of both) are two that work. there's also a product called Crystal Clean Iron Remover that also works well. others here have had luck with Super Iron out but you have to let it sit in the resin bed overnight if you want any results. I would highly strongly suggest you try resin cleaners before you embark on a long, complex, expensive, and frustrating journey of installing all that extra equipment (can you tell I'm speaking from experience?).

annual disassembly and cleaning of the valve is also a good idea when you have iron. plus removal of the valve so you can clean/replace the top screen. that may sound like a bit of work, but its still far less hassle than all that extra equipment.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Do you have H2S ("sulfur") smell?

 

[janders5006]

we were getting a very slight smell at times recently when the softener was not working. Now it's back to normal with no smell. Thanks for the advice, I will try the resin cleaners and do better at maintaining the valve/screens now that I know what to do.

On my previous post someone recommended a sediment filter due to the test results. Do you think that's not needed still?

At some point I'll probably re-test the water and re-evaluate. Thanks all!

 

[Reach4]

On my previous post someone recommended a sediment filter due to the test results. Do you think that's not needed still?

I don't see the test results saying that you need a sediment filter, but I think they are usually a good idea -- even with city water.

It is best to have a bypass so that if the filter fails, you are not without water. At least keep an extra o-ring.

 

[Skyjumper]

we were getting a very slight smell at times recently when the softener was not working. Now it's back to normal with no smell.

yep that was my experience too, except my water is much worse. I completely solved the suflur issue with this stuff https://www.crystalclean.us/ it totally works but is kind of pricey. I'd start with Rescare (phosphoric acid) first and also get some citric acid from Amazon add 1/2 cup with every bag of salt. that's basically what the morton rust remover salt is.
https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Cit...=1&keywords=citric+acid&qid=1602083509&sr=8-9

you should also learn to reprogram your softener to regenerate more often if/when its capacity starts to decline again. I changed mine to hard code the number of gallons rather than have it based on hardness and capacity inputs. at some point in the future you will have to replace the resin, valve seals, injector, etc. but if you keep it clean that will be long way off.

 

[Reach4]

dd 1/2 cup with every bag of salt. that's basically what the morton rust remover salt is.

The rust-treating salt has a whole lot less citric acid than that.

 

[Skyjumper]

my math could be wrong, but the salt has about 3oz of citric acid in it, which is about 85g. when I weighed it that came out to about 1/2 cup? how much would you suggest?

Edit. I found the SDS. 0.35% citric acid x 50lb bag = 0.175lb = 2.8oz. I guess I'm assuming 50lb bags, which is what I use.

 

[Reach4]

my math could be wrong, but the salt has about 3oz of citric acid in it, which is about 85g. when I weighed it that came out to about 1/2 cup? how much would you suggest?

Edit. I found the SDS. 0.35% citric acid x 50lb bag = 0.175lb = 2.8oz. I guess I'm assuming 50lb bags, which is what I use.

I was thinking 40 or 44 lb bags Morton bags rather than your Diamond bags.

So what is the density of the citric acid powder? Maybe weigh what 1/2 cup comes to.

So I think you may be adding about 2x what the iron-treating salt comes from. That is not bad. Now is 2x a lot more? Anyway, I don't say that using 1/2 cup is bad. I am saying that your home brew may be more effective than the stuff you buy pre-mixed.

Some mix Iron Out with the salt. More effective, but citric smells better. In the covered brine tank in the basement, the IO smell is not bad.

I have an H2S+iron filter, so the softener only deals with the remainder. Regular Morton System Saver II salt has 0.09% citric acid already.

 

[janders5006]

I don't see the test results saying that you need a sediment filter, but I think they are usually a good idea -- even with city water.

Looks like you responded with this in my past message: "I would like some kind of sediment filter with a big cartridge, such as 4.5x20. I think before, but after the softener has its merits."

If I do add a sediment filter, is this the right one?
DGD-5005-20 Dual Gradient Sediment Cartridge #155358
or this
ECP20-20BB Pleated Sediment Filter

Here are my test results:
3.5 bathrooms
5 people in house

Total Hardness: 580 mg/l 33.918 grains per gallon
Compensated Hardness: 34.178
Iron: 0.13 mg/l
ph: 7.16
Sodium: 246mg/l 14.39 gpg
Total Dissolved Solids: 826 mg/l 48.304 gpg

Chloride: 370 mg/l
Sulfate: 20 mg/l
Nitrate: <2 mg/l
Alkalinity: 430 mg/l

Thanks for all the responses! I have the Rescare starter kit and Citrix acid on order.

 

[Reach4]

If I do add a sediment filter, is this the right one?
DGD-5005-20 Dual Gradient Sediment Cartridge #155358
or this
ECP20-20BB Pleated Sediment Filter

I use that DGD-5005-20.

The ECP20-20BB is cellulose, and thus is not suitable for un-chlorinated water. Is there a polypropylene or polyester filter that would be a better choice than the ECP20-20BB? I don't know.

I would use pipe dope and PFE tape both. Don't use plastic fittings with mold marks. There are sealants that people like better than others. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/best-pipe-dope.75000/ is one thread. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/why-wont-this-connection-stop-leaking.87567/ is another.