2" Steel Casing Adapter removal

[Reach4]

Well is about 90 feet deep. I

That would be the depth of the hole. He is asking how far down the top of the water is.

Pretty sure existing tank is bad after finding no pressure on bladder. May not need to change impeller if I replace the tank?

No. The bad tank causes symptoms, but not one that makes the pump never click off. It can click on and off too frequently due to a bad pressure tank.

 

[pyro1955]

That would be the depth of the hole. He is asking how far down the top of the water is.

No idea static water level, no records of that.

No. The bad tank causes symptoms, but not one that makes the pump never click off. It can click on and off too frequently due to a bad pressure tank.

So still think it likely needs impeller too?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

So still think it likely needs impeller too?

You seem to have me confused with somebody who said you need an impeller or might need an impeller or who used a word that could be confused with impeller, such as impaler.

 

[Valveman]

That pump can only build 62 PSI max. So if the water level in the well has dropped to 20'-24', that is just all that pump can do. I would check the water level in the well.

 

[pyro1955]

That pump can only build 62 PSI max. So if the water level in the well has dropped to 20'-24', that is just all that pump can do. I would check the water level in the well.

That would require removing the bolts on the casing adapter correct? Also, the pump had no problems maintaining 50psi until February of this year, I do not see any air being introduced into the system, if the well level had dropped would it not suck air too? And this weekend I believe it appears the bladder is shot on the tank too. According to Wayne pumps, I have to "Pry" harder to get the pump apart, I can see this becoming worse all the time...

 

[Reach4]

I do not see any air being introduced into the system, if the well level had dropped would it not suck air too?

If the tailpipe is very long, you can never suck air. https://www.nationaldriller.com/articles/86889-how-to-use-tail-pipe-on-deep-well-jet-pumps

 

[pyro1955]

If all it can do is 48 psi, I am fine with that, For now I am going to replace the pressure tank, if I can maintain enough pressure to keep the on demand hot water to finish a shower, and it stops on it's own at 48 psi, I will call that a win for now. I do not need allot of water up there, but sudden cold showers are not acceptable. I wish it was easier to find out the existing water level, but with the casing adapter, and the whole setup being underground in a vault, very difficult for a rookie to remove and check. Time to shop for a new tank....

 

[Valveman]

Time to shop for a new tank....

Yeah well I don't recommend a CSV with a pump than can only build 48 PSI. But you still won't need a very large tank, because the pump is barely pumping any water at 48 PSI. It will act like it has a CSV since it can only build 48 PSI anyway. Stick on a 10-20 gallon size tank and call it good. When you replace that pump you may need a two pipe jet pump if the water level is close to 24' deep. Then you could add a CSV because the new two pipe jet pump will build a lot of pressure and pump more water than you need, so the pump will cycle on/off. When a pump is cycling on/off like that the pressure change will also cause your instant water heater to go on and off. We sell a lot of CSV's for instant water heaters because it solves the on/off problem.

 

[pyro1955]

Yeah well I don't recommend a CSV with a pump than can only build 48 PSI. But you still won't need a very large tank, because the pump is barely pumping any water at 48 PSI. It will act like it has a CSV since it can only build 48 PSI anyway. Stick on a 10-20 gallon size tank and call it good. When you replace that pump you may need a two pipe jet pump if the water level is close to 24' deep. Then you could add a CSV because the new two pipe jet pump will build a lot of pressure and pump more water than you need, so the pump will cycle on/off. When a pump is cycling on/off like that the pressure change will also cause your instant water heater to go on and off. We sell a lot of CSV's for instant water heaters because it solves the on/off problem.

I do not recall saying anything about a CSV, the pump is an existing Wayne 1/2 hp CWS50, up until February of this year, it had no problems getting to 50 PSI, then something changed, and it would not shut off on it's own. The pump is at least 15 years old, likely more, my thought is due to the failed tank that it could achieve 50 psi and ran for too long and now the impeller is worn. Or, if I change the tank, it may achieve 50 psi again. even at low pressure it delivers decent amounts of water. The existing pump is a Two pipe jet pump. and it is a closed casing system.

 

[Valveman]

Normally you would need a CSV to be able to use a small pressure tank. I was just mentioning that your pump isn't producing enough water to cycle off, so a CSV wouldn't be helpful, yet you could still use a small pressure tank.

OK didn't realize this was a two pipe jet pump. Try adjusting the control valve or back pressure valve. With a two pipe jet pump the control valve will make it produce a lot more than 50 PSI. Without a good back pressure valve I wouldn't think the pump could build the pressure you need.

 

[pyro1955]

With this type of 2 pipe pump, what would cause it to suddenly not be able to achieve 50 psi? I know now that the tank is bad.

 

[Valveman]

Let me say this one more time, a bad tank is not your problem. A bad tank will cause your pump to cycle on/off rapidly, not keep it from getting to 60 PSI. When you get the pump back working then yes you will need a new tank, which a CSV and small tank would be better.

With a 2 pipe jet pump the back pressure control valve could be bad or not set properly. The leathers down the well could be bad. You could have a hole in the casing. Or you could have a bad ejector. Any of these things will keep the pump from building pressure, not the tank.

 

[pyro1955]

update: Replaced Tank, and again attempted to replace the impeller, still could not get the motor separated from the pump housing. Finally gave in, purchased a new pump. Between the new pump, and the new pipe and fittings from the pump to the wellhead, everything is working well again. There was a strange union on the 1" line from the pump to the wellhead that was galvanized pipe to the union to another galvanized pipe. It appears that this strange union may have been part of the issue as it may have been sucking just enough air to cause part of the issue. New pump has Fittings and Black Plastic on both lines now. So far so good. Still plan to replace the impeller on the old pump and have it ready as a spare. Anyone ever see a union like that one?