2" Steel Casing Adapter removal

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pyro1955

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I have a 2" steel well casing, with a Wayne 1/2 hp convertible jet pump, well approx 90 feet deep. I need to remove the pump to replace the impeller, looking at the install, the easiest way to remove the pump would be to remove the discharge line, unbolt the motor, and I think unbolt the 3 bolts holding the casing adapter that is fixed to the top of the casing. I am not familiar with this setup and want to make sure that I will not loose the suction pipe down the well if I remove those bolts????? The pump has two lines from it to the casing adapter. The casing adapter is a 90 degree elbow with the two pipes going into it. The elbow is yellow and has 3 bolts holding it together. Is this the best way to remove the pump for impeller change?
 

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To change an impeller I would disconnect the pump from the motor housing and move the motor back. This will leave the pump and casing adapter where they are. The motor with an impeller on the end of the shaft will come out the other end.

Post a picture and we can show you which bolts to loosen.
 

pyro1955

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To change an impeller I would disconnect the pump from the motor housing and move the motor back. This will leave the pump and casing adapter where they are. The motor with an impeller on the end of the shaft will come out the other end.

Post a picture and we can show you which bolts to loosen.


So, all I need to do is unbolt the motor, and take the 4 bolts out that hold the pump casing to the plate on the motor? I am assuming I will need to also support the pump casing so it does not sag or put pressure on the well casing. That would be less hastle would only require removing the wire from the pressure switch.
 

pyro1955

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The way mine is setup, down in a pit, i want to take the pump up out of the pit to deal with replacing the impeller, it is a wayne 1/2 hp convertible jet pump. I have purchased a large flat head screwdriver to use on the shaft end, and i purchased a strap wrench for the impeller, hopefully it comes of without too much trouble.
 

pyro1955

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Ok, I unbolted the pump from the mount, and unbolted the 4 bolts on the pump housing. The motor would only slide back about 1/8th inch or less, is not corroded to the housing, at least not the casing, however I could not get it to slide back any further. Tried prying with screw drivers, but was not having any luck. I gave up and put the bolts back in before I broke something. Is there any tricks I need to get this apart? I also decided since I had the pressure off the tank I would check bladder pressure... basically no pressure... So it looks like tank is shot, tried adding air and it pushed more water out of the pump.. I put the plug back in and as I added pressure to the tank, it increased pressure on the gauge on the pump... could it be the tank is all of the issue? should I replace the tank first, or do both?
 

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Sounds like you may have taken off the wrong 4 bolts. You want to remove the bolts from the pump volute, not the pump/motor adapter. Maybe post a picture so we can mark it up for you?
 

pyro1955

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Sounds like you may have taken off the wrong 4 bolts. You want to remove the bolts from the pump volute, not the pump/motor adapter. Maybe post a picture so we can mark it up for you?
Nope, had the 4 bolts from the volute, there are no other bolts forward of these on the pump housing. It is loose, simply will not come out of the pump housing. Acts like it is stuck, yet it turns freely so it is not corroded. is there an oring or similar that is holding this in?
 

pyro1955

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pump.png
 

Reach4

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OK, I see the image you posted, tho it is small.

Is that your pump model, or is it something else?
 
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pyro1955

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That is my pump model, the CWS50, may be the seal plate is stuck, is there a trick to getting it to move??
 

pyro1955

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I sure hope someone has some kind of experience with this. I did find the pressure tank had basically no pressure on the bladder tank, could it be just the tank is shot???
 

Reach4

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How about some longer screws, or put the regular screws back in but backed out 1/4 inch. With a piece of wood on a screw, tap on the wood with a hammer. Alternatively, maybe you can figure out a way to push on more than one screw at once.

Too bad they are blind holes.

I have no experience, and I don't know if taking the pump apart is a good idea.
 

pyro1955

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original problem was the pump could not get up to 50 psi to shut off. And it takes a very long time for it to recover to 48 psi, which it can achieve and shuts off. I thought the tank was holding pressure at that point, and based on not getting air in the lines, my assumption was the impeller is shot. Now after finding basically no pressure on the bladder thinking that may be the issue, still think impeller is worn. I did manage to get 28 psi into the tank, however not sure how long it stayed there, or even if it did. Now thinking the tank may be the issue. any recommendations as to brand of bladder tank to consider?
 

Reach4

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There are some good ones. Well-X-Trol is highly regarded, but the ones that Menards carries is not a huge step-down.

When you can only generate 20 PSI, that usually means you need to clear the venturi/jet. I don't know if that can cause you to only be able to generate 45 PSI. It is easy to unclog and does not require disassembly.
 

pyro1955

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How deep is it to water in the well? That might be all that pump can do.
Well is about 90 feet deep. It does recover, would not make 50psi though, had to turn down to 48. Never sucked air, biggest reason I noticed was water pressure drops too low in house and on demand water heater quits. Pretty sure existing tank is bad after finding no pressure on bladder. May not need to change impeller if I replace the tank?
 
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