1st Time Bathroom Remodel - Advice on Sink/Toilet plumbing connections?

[1stTimeHomeOwner]

Hello! I'm happy to have found this forum. It has been quite the experience with my first bathroom remodel (learned about tile, drywall, electrical, plumbing/sewer line, etc...). So far, we have been really happy with the results.

I'm hoping someone can point in the right direction with the plumbing connections on my bathroom remodel. Note: The house is an older 1953 house... Please reference the pics below of the current setup.

Bathroom Sink Water Supplies and Drain (I removed the drywall to attach additional stud support for the wall mount vanity)

Close-up of Sink Water Supply connections

Toilet Water Supply

It's worth pointing out that the bathroom was rarely used due to low pressure of the faucet and toilet valve. We found the cause for the low pressure was the fixtures (bad sink faucet and bad valve in the old toilet tank - not a line issue). We are replacing everything with new parts. The water did come out brown which I believe might be tied to the galvanized nipples/valves, etc.. so any advice on replacement options is appreciated.

What is recommended to clean this all up? I'm not sure if this is DIY, or if I should hire a plumber to assist with this part. Plumbing is a bit intimidating to me, but I have enjoyed learned and I'm willing to attempt it unless its too much for a first timer. Thank you for any help!

 

[Terry]

I would cut out the santee there and replace it with a new one. You can use Mission couplings for that. They come in various sizes to match the pipes. Plastic pipes will be different sizing than the cast.

I would get rid of the galvanized and stub out copper pipe, and then use compression shutoffs after drywall. The way you won't need to solder at trim.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[1stTimeHomeOwner]

Thanks for the info! I will remove the santee and replace it with a new one.
Should the 3/8 galvanized simply be unscrewed from the elbows and replaced with same size 3/8 copper with a threaded connection? I will be sure the connection coming out will allow for a compression shut-off.

Does anything special need to be done with the toilet supply line? I can't tell the type of metal that the nipple is.
Thanks,

 

[Terry]

Anytime I install a toilet, I replace the braided connector. If you have copper at the wall, you can use a compression stop as a replacement. I can't tell from the picture if it's copper, it may be.

Are the pipe nipples at the lav 3/8"? You might consider picking up brass nipples in that size then and using IP stops after drywall.

 

[1stTimeHomeOwner]

The nipple connection at the toilet supply line has a threaded connection to the shut-off valve. I'm planning on replacing the braided connection as well as the valve. I will try to clean the nipple up to see what it's made of.
As far as the sink connections, the galvanized pipe nipples are 3/8 (threaded on both sides to elbow and plug). It sounds like Brass might be the easiest thing to do. I just hope I don't run into any issues unscrewing them from the elbow (hard to tell what kind of metal the elbow is).
Last question, what are "IP stops"?

I appreciate the help. Look forward to getting this going. I will order everything later today.

 

[Terry]

Iron Pipe threads
The elbows in the wall are brass. Hold those with pliers and with a pipe wrench or a second set of pliers unthread. You have to "back" the fitting.

 

[1stTimeHomeOwner]

Some success. Last night, I finally got around to this project. I was able to replace all 3 (yes, the toilet supply was galvanized) nipples with brass. I had to make some adjustments to slightly re-tighten the nipples and valves once I turned the main water back on to get rid of the leaks. All of the water supply line connections (nipple and valves) are now leak free!

Now, the final step... I could really use some advice to finalize this project...

I am too intimidated to cut and replace the santee. I tried several adapters to reduce my IKEA sink provided pipes down from 1 1/2 pipe to the metal 1 1/4 pictures above and I'm getting leaks. I see what appears to be a large nut (pictured above at drain). Can I simply unscrew this metal 1 1/4 drain adapter and screw a new 1 1/2 PCV connection in it's place? Thank you!
For me at this point, the easier the better... I'm starting to get burned out and need the bathroom up and running. Thank you!

 

[Grandbllc]

Getting the old stub out might prove to be extremely difficult, if not impossible. I've had one snap off in the tee before. Then you just have threads stuck inside. I would definitely cut the old san tee out. If you use cast iron sawzall blades its not too difficult, use a corded sawzall. Lowe's in Arvada carries the blades, I just bought some there Monday. They are like $15 but they work amazing when you cant fit service cutters

 

[1stTimeHomeOwner]

Getting the old stub out might prove to be extremely difficult, if not impossible. I've had one snap off in the tee before. Then you just have threads stuck inside. I would definitely cut the old san tee out. If you use cast iron sawzall blades its not too difficult, use a corded sawzall. Lowe's in Arvada carries the blades, I just bought some there Monday. They are like $15 but they work amazing when you cant fit service cutters

Thank you, I appreciate the response from a fellow Coloradoan.
It's intimidating to me because it's new to me and I'm paranoid of any unintended consequences from hacking it up. It sounds like I'm only modernizing and bringing it current. This has been the biggest thing I've learned with DIY; sometimes you have to demo and make it worse in order to make it better.
The big concern I have is not doing a straight cut and/or the weight of the pipe crashing down. if it's a simple cut and replace with mission couplings, it seems pretty easy.
I do have a reciprocating saw (Ryobi/cordless), but would need to purchase the corded version as well. I will sleep on it. Although not desired, I'm also been debating on using some silicone on that joint and calling it a day. Everything else I have done has been quality and I wouldn't mind a band-aid solution.

 

[James Henry]

You may get lucky and unthread the pipe with a pipe wrench, you'll need two pipe wrenches, one to hold the Santee and one to unthread the pipe.

 

[Dj2]

I also would try to unthread the galv pipe first.
It could be easier than expected, using a good size plumber's wrench.