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the parts that I believe would be ferrous are: -zone valves? -2 circulator pumps (one for heat, one for indirect) -expansion tank -fast fill valve (may be copper) -spirovent (may be copper) aside from this, everything is either copper, brass, plastic, or stainless...

how do I 'pump' the fernox into the system once it is drained? Given that my boiler has a stainless steel heat exchange, would this be safe from damage? This is really the biggest concern to me...

Basically, I didn't use the PEX with the barrier when I installed a few of the loops in my system, as I was not aware of the issue it solves. It has been like this for 4+ years. Not sure if it makes a difference, but I have a Lochinvar boiler and it has a stainless steel heat exchange. I was...

I don't disagree that water enter and exits the tank. But this is entirely different than it being in the actual flow of the main line. The chlorine pump is activated per the meter at a pulse per gallon. Teeing off the line that goes to the pressure tank would not cause flow through the...

should I also take picture of the pex plumbing as well, just to make sure we're all on the same page with what I am talking about?? Seriously though, I have a main line, and am teeing off of it to a pressure tank. There is no picture required to explain this. Yet when this guy fails to grasp...

LOL No, I'm sorry. I can't explain yet again the same simple description of how this is set up...

There is zero water flowing through it. The water enters the tee as 1" pex and flows out of the tee as 1" pex. the middle leg of the tee goes down to the pressure tank as 3/4" pex...

The other option I have is just before the first 1" tee, there is another 1" tee that branches off to 1/2" and I have this going to a vacuum break. I could move the vacuum break to the 3/4" line going down to the pressure tank, and use the 1/2" tee for the garden hoses...

I could cut in, but it will be a major pain. I'd rather just use treated water in the hoses... The chlorination meter is about a ft downstream of the 1" pex tee, and the chlorine injection point is yet another 1 ft even further down.

I believe it is 1 1/4" black plastic water line coming from the well through the block wall, and I am adapting from this to 1" pex almost immediately. After this it runs into a tee, the 1" pex size continues through the tee, and the middle of the tee I have reducing to 3/4" that runs down to...

the main line enters the basement through the block wall and almost immediately enters a tee. There is 3/4" pex that goes ~4ft ft down to the base of the pressure tank. The pressure gauge and pressure switch are at the base of the tank. I would want to put a tee as close to the tee mentioned...

My pressure tank is connected with 3/4" pex to the main 1" pex line. I want to use untreated water for the garden hoses. Can I run a tee from the 3/4" run that is connecting the pressure tank? It is the only location that allows me to tap into untreated water without having to do a decent...

OK, but why 1/2"? Why not use a 3/4" valve with 3/4" fittings, so that if for whatever reason necessary, I can at least achieve full flow if desired? Seems like going with a 1/2" valve would build in a permanent reduction?...

Am I using both of these or just one? This is 3/4" pex, so your saying I should go 1 size smaller to 1/2"?

There are 4 zones, each have their own thermostat. The system is plumbed direct - there is no primary/secondary. Two of the zones consistently get warm enough to satisfy their thermostats, while the other two are always 3-5 degrees below satisfying their thermostats... Closing the ball valve...

here is the board:

For years I have not used the Night Set Back feature on my Lochinvar WHN055 because when we have power outages, the date and time needs to be manually reset, which is kind of a pain... Per the Lochinvar rep, the capacitor on the board is bad, otherwise the unit would remember what time it is...

I have one circulator pump. One of my zones is getting a lot more flow due to size, elbows, etc. I have had the ball valve partially shut to balance the flow but know that this is not the right way to do it in the long term. I thought the valve I needed was a 'globe valve' but when I search...

I made my own neutralizer out of 2" pvc, 30" long, tilted upward, so that the condensate needs to fill the entire pipe from the bottom before exiting out the top. The pvc is filled with crushed marble. After a few years, I just checked the filter and it still had marble chips in it, but not...

Thank you, Ditto. How do I size the contact tank? What kind of pump do you recommend? Dustin