Help! Bathroom faucet sink is badly clogged!

[Questions1]

I don’t grow a lots of facial hair or mustache and I still shave twice weekly but now my faucet sink is badly clogged. I tried many times with the “zip it tool” but it is not pulling out any hair. I have uploaded pics of my sink below . I am not DIY and have never done any such work. The Ptrap if that’s what it is called looks like it is a metal ptrap and it has some tape that is taped around as you can see to tighten it. I watched YouTube videos and it shows how to unclog by removing the ptrap but the tool I have is not big enough to open the ptrap and it is taped . I also don’t know how to buy The correct ptrap size or other tool I need to replace . If I call a plumber they will charge me to come here ,to look, to go out to to buy and to install and it may end up costing me $300 to $500. Just for this . Pls tell me how to clean out the clog and how to open and buy the correct size and parts needed to replace. And also whether this is something I as a non DIY can even do this! If any plumber in Illinois who can help me out , I will pay you but I can’t afford much. Thank you!

 

[Reach4]

Good news. You can take that brass p-trap apart and clean it.

If you want to replace it, measure the OD of those pipes. There are two sizes: 1-1/4 and 1-1/2. You can replace the metal with plastic. You can mix and match.

Don't use that blue Teflon tape. If there are leaks there, get new washers.

The block may be in the wall or beyond. If that, call a drain cleaner or plumber to snake the drain lines.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Questions1]

What is measuring OD and what you mean new washer? Thanks

 

[Terry]

Have you removed the stopper?
Sometimes those are held in place by a rod that is worked from the top. You can unthread the rod, or unclip if that is the case, remove the stopper and then the catcher device can make it's way down. Also a small hand snake can fit down there if the stopper rod has been removed first.

If you remove the p-trap, plan on having new slip joint washers on hand for when you assemble it. It looks to be a 1-1/4" p-trap.

 

[Reach4]

What is measuring OD and what you mean new washer? Thanks

OD is outside diameter. If you are unable to measure that, wrap a string around one of the pipes. Put a mark on the string where it crosses a point. Take the string off, and measure the distance between marks.

Then divide that number by pi (3.14). The result should be near 1.50 or 1.25 inches.

 

[Questions1]

Have you removed the stopper?
Sometimes those are held in place by a rod that is worked from the top. You can unthread the rod, or unclip if that is the case, remove the stopper and then the catcher device can make it's way down. Also a small hand snake can fit down there if the stopper rod has been removed first.

If you remove the p-trap, plan on having new slip joint washers on hand for when you assemble it. It looks to be a 1-1/4" p-trap.

The above picture is called slip joint washer? I have to buy this when I buy p-trap? If I am able to remove the ptrap I can take it to the hardware store and can easily find the same size right ?

 

[Reach4]

The above picture is called slip joint washer? I have to buy this when I buy p-trap? If I am able to remove the ptrap I can take it to the hardware store and can easily find the same size right ?

Yes. Take the pieces to the hardware store.

The right washer often depends on the nut. Nut and washers are sometimes sold together.

 

[Questions1]

Yes. Take the pieces to the hardware store.

The right washer often depends on the nut. Nut and washers are sometimes sold together.

What do I do with that washer thing? Where do I install or put it on? I tried to open the stopper from the sink but I was not able to. I can only remove the ring that is placed on top there . It is hard to clean with the zip it tool. It doesn’t pull out and hair .

 

[Skoronesa]

........And also whether this is something I as a non DIY can even do this! If any plumber in Illinois who can help me out , I will pay you but I can’t afford much. Thank you!

You should be able to do this. Rather than take off thew whole trap, first you should try removing the stopper. This is usually done by unscrewing a nut that goes around a rod sticking from the back of the tailpiece under the sink. Then you can take that prickly strip you bought and push it down in and catch most of the stuff. Usually the tailpiece clogs the most, not the trap.

Hold the stopper when you remove the rod or it may drop and be difficult to remove.

 

[Reach4]

Symptom recap: When you drain water from the sink basin, the water does not go down fast enough. You could, for example, comment that the first cup goes down plenty fast, and then flow goes really slow. But describe your own observations.

If in the morning, the sink takes the first 1/2 gallon readily, that would be significant.

I was suggesting that you undo nut G, K D, and M, and drop the chromed pieces. You would take them to the hardware store, and get new plastic pieces. Catch any water that falls into a tub below. If it is a real hardware store, a person will probably be glad to help.

While the pieces are off, look down the drain with the stopper removed. Does it look clear. If not clean things. If you have linkage to pop up the drain plug, take the mechanism apart and clean as Terry and skoronesa are describing. Make sure that water flows freely through C to a tub or bucket below.

Remove the blue tape from C, and any in the M area, and put in the new plastic pieces. No PTFE tape.

Now if your drain is still slow, your problem is in the wall and beyond. It may be down below the floor, or even in the basement area. You can have somebody clean your drains, or prepare your self for a bigger project if DIY. I have a "snake" powered by my electric drill that did that job for me. We can discuss that.

 

[Questions1]

Symptom recap: When you drain water from the sink basin, the water does not go down fast enough. You could, for example, comment that the first cup goes down plenty fast, and then flow goes really slow. But describe your own observations.

If in the morning, the sink takes the first 1/2 gallon readily, that would be significant.

View attachment 70876

I was suggesting that you undo nut G, K D, and M, and drop the chromed pieces. You would take them to the hardware store, and get new plastic pieces. Catch any water that falls into a tub below. If it is a real hardware store, a person will probably be glad to help.

While the pieces are off, look down the drain with the stopper removed. Does it look clear. If not clean things. If you have linkage to pop up the drain plug, take the mechanism apart and clean as Terry and skoronesa are describing. Make sure that water flows freely through C to a tub or bucket below.

Remove the blue tape from C, and any in the M area, and put in the new plastic pieces. No PTFE tape.

Now if your drain is still slow, your problem is in the wall and beyond. It may be down below the floor, or even in the basement area. You can have somebody clean your drains, or prepare your self for a bigger project if DIY. I have a "snake" powered by my electric drill that did that job for me. We can discuss that.

I think your name icon logo mentions Illinois. Are you in the suburb ? I am in far north side of the city . If you are pro in these and you have time you can help my family with this job. I can pay you some but not the the regular charges the plumber would charge !

 

[Reach4]

If you take your pieces to a big Ace Hardware, they will probably be able to get you the pieces you need in white slip joint plastic.

If the clog extends into the wall, I had good luck.

I got a RIDGID PowerSpin Plus.

I powered it with a drill.

I bought it for a bathroom drain, and it worked great for me. I actually went through the 1-1/4 trap, and before I knew it, it had played out about 12 ft of snake, and the blockage several feet below the santee had been cleared. I was prepared to enter at the trap adapter on the santee, but thought I would try the lazy stay-dry top entry. I know it has limitations.

I only snaked through the trap in case it worked. I was expecting to have to do more disassembly. It was really handy to be able to run water during the snaking. You have some major turns before you even get to your trap.