Grohe Tub Spout - Sweat in Stub Out or Use Custom Brass Nipple? with little wiggle room.

[Sokolq55]

The spout I have requires only about 3/4 inch of threads sticking out from finished wall. And it doesn't have much wiggle room, maybe one full turn of the threads.

IF I leave a sweated copper stub out, I foresee a difficulty being able to then sweat on a threaded adapter because it will be so close to the finished wall.
IF I use a short brass nipple, I foresee difficulty screwing it into the drop elbow without messing up the outside threads because the length of the outside threaded portion is essentially the length it needs to protrude from finished wall.

Any advice?

 

[Terry]

The pipe nipple goes on the tub spout and then the spout with nipple threads in by hand.

To find the measurement, thread in a long nipple and mark where the end should be. Remove that long nipple and find a nipple that is the size that you marked.
You should never need to put pliers on the nipple that is used for the tub spout, only to install and remove the long nipple used for the measurement.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sokolq55]

The pipe nipple goes on the tub spout and then the spout with nipple threads in by hand.

To find the measurement, thread in a long nipple and mark where the end should be. Remove that long nipple and find a nipple that is the size that you marked.
You should never need to put pliers on the nipple that is used for the tub spout, only to install and remove the long nipple used for the measurement.

Thank you!!!

 

[Sokolq55]

Do you guys prefer pipe dope or Teflon tape for these cases? Especially for the thread seal inside the wall

 

[Terry]

Three wraps of tape and dope over that.
It's one way to do it.

 

[Reach4]

To make a brass nipple stick out more, add more PTFE tape. To make it stick out less, turn tighter.

If in doubt to size, order both.

1-3/4 length is available in stainless.