Well Pump not functioning properly

[GaryN]

Installed a new pressure tank and switch. Power up system and the cutin and cutoff are 40/60. On initial fill water fills system to 60 psi and pressure switch turns off. If draw on the system is constant, say take a shower for 20 mins, the pressure will reduce to 40 (cutin) then the pump turns on. Everything working fine so far. Now the pump stops pumping at 55psi, that is 5 psi lower then the 60psi cutoff. If constant draw on the system, still taking a shower, water continues to exit the system as it should. The pump turns on 40 psi (cutin). Now the pump stops at 48 psi, not 60psi (cutoff).
When the pump stops prior to reaching the 60psi (cutoff) the pressure switch contacts remain closed. No flow of water into the pressure tank. After 90 seconds the pump turns back on and then pumps to the 60psi cutoff. As the draw on the system continues the pump stops sooner and never makes it to the point prior, say 48 psi. The next value maybe 40. Wait 90 seconds and the pump begins pumping again.

It appears to me that the issue is with the pump motor Thermal overload protection. Is this true ? Is there a 90 second thermal overload that resets the pump in 90 seconds ? I am using a Franklin Electric motor 2445059004.
Can someone help ?

 

[VAWellDriller]

The thermal overloads in motors do not reset until voltage is taken away from the motor..so if the pressure switch remains closed, the motor is always getting voltage and the overloads aren't the problem...sounds to me like you are overpumping the well and it starts pumping again as the water level rises.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DonL]

Incorrect voltage can cause the internal breaker to trip.

You could have a loose electrical connection.


Good Luck

 

[GaryN]

The water level remains about 10 feet below the pitless adapter. The well depth is 125 feet. I don't think the water is the issue. Could there be some other issue ? When the pump stops and the Pressure switch remains closed, there is 238 - 240volts applied to the motor but it is not running. This measurement is taken from the terminal screws for the motor wires on the pressure switch (lug #2 and #3). There is a distinctive 90 seconds before the motor will start pumping again. If there is no draw on the system, after the 90 seconds the motor turns on and will pump till cutoff (60psi). Any other ideas ?

 

[GaryN]

Does the internal breaker automatically reset, at about 90 seconds ? It would appear to be a heat issue. IF there is no draw on the system the pump will run upto 2 cycles 40 - 60 properly before it starts acting up. Then as more cycles get completed quickly the cutoff less then 60 gets worse.

I appreciate the help.

 

[Valveman]

The overload just has to cool down before it resets. Not a time thing. You need a new motor. You already cycled that one to death.

 

[VAWellDriller]

I agree it sounds like a heat problem, and you need a new motor. I put in a lot of goulds pumps with centri-pro motors, and all the new stuff has to both cool down, and have voltage taken away before they reset.....sounds like yours is resetting itself.

 

[DonL]

Does the internal breaker automatically reset, at about 90 seconds ? It would appear to be a heat issue. IF there is no draw on the system the pump will run upto 2 cycles 40 - 60 properly before it starts acting up. Then as more cycles get completed quickly the cutoff less then 60 gets worse.

I appreciate the help.

That pump motor has Auto Thermal Protection, it is a mater of temperature.

How long it takes to cool down and reset depends on the water temperature.

If you could measure the current draw when running, that would help.

The motor should draw about 5 amps.

If it is over 5 amp, then the pump has a problem.


Good Luck.

 

[GaryN]

Ok, I appreciate all the feedback and thoughts. I checked all connections to the motor that are currently available, pressure switch, and casing top cap. Those connections are all good. The only other connections I did not check are the wires (splices) connecting to the motor as it is submerged. The water level is fine, only down about 20 feet from the surface at its lowest point. I next measured the current draw at the pressure switch, L1 and the reading was 17amps. What !!!!!! This cant be true... I then went to the well casing, removed the cap and checked the amperage on each Line and they both read around 17amps. Outch. I thought this was suppose to draw 5 amps ?????? Maybe that is why my electrical bill is so high. Maybe not.. Maybe it is a defective amp meter. Brand new.. Seems to work on other items. Should work on this also as I am only measuring 1 line at a time. I attempted to take a resistance measurement of the motor with both lines at the well casing disconnected from the feed to the house. Only measuring the wires and motor submerged. each line to gnd line reads 800k/900K. Measuring across the two motor lines is 400k and will eventually read shorted (.0000) if I leave the leads on the wires long enough. Not sure what this is telling me.
Are we still thinking the motor was about had it and its now time to replace ?

 

[LLigetfa]

Are we still thinking the motor was about had it and its now time to replace ?

Yes, those readings confirm that.

 

[DonL]

That is way to much Run Current.

That is a Split Phase motor and it sounds like the Centrifugal switch is stuck and not disconnecting the start winding.

Or the motor is binding up for some reason.

How old is it ? Made in China ?


Good Luck.

 

[GaryN]

Don,

The pump/motor is 12 years old. It is a Franklin Electric Motor on a Gould Pump. Model 2445059004. 1/2 hp single phase, 2 wire Rated at 3450 RPM max 6 amp.

Tag for the motor shows it is made in USA, not china..

Thank you, I appreciate the knowledge and feedback.

 

[GaryN]

The old pump/motor has been pulled and replaced. The new pump/motor draws 5 amps, not 17 amps like the old one. The total process took no more than 1-1/2 hrs with two of us doing it.

Thanks all for the help diagnosing the problem.

 

[Valveman]

Now just don't cycle the new one to death. Hint, hint!

 

[DonL]

Don,

The pump/motor is 12 years old. It is a Franklin Electric Motor on a Gould Pump. Model 2445059004. 1/2 hp single phase, 2 wire Rated at 3450 RPM max 6 amp.

Tag for the motor shows it is made in USA, not china..

Thank you, I appreciate the knowledge and feedback.

Great that you got it replaced.

12 Years is not to bad.

Just hope that the new one last as long.


Enjoy.

 

[Valveman]

2 years or 12, it is still cycling that gets most pumps. 12 years just means your pump cycles less than the average. 2 years means it cycles more than the average. 7 years is still the average life of a submersible pump. So for every pump that last 12 years, there is another that only last 2 years. Chances are that you will no longer be able to get a pump as good as the one made 12 years ago. If something works that good, they will change it.

12 years is a pretty good run. But if you had cycled the pump 50% less, it would have lasted 24 years.

 

[DonL]

So in short install a CSV and the new pump may last 10 Years.

http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html

They do not build pumps like they did 10 years ago. Some features are better, but longevity could be a issue.

Most likely Made in China, or a big price was paid for the new pump, that was most likely made overseas.


Have Fun.

 

[Valveman]

So in short install a CSV and the new pump may last 10 Years.

In a nutshell, yes. Pumps are made so cheaply these days, that just to get a few years of service, one must do everything possible to limit the number of cycles.