Water Treatment Questions and Issues

[Neil64]

Hello All,

Its been a while...

I have the following 3 year old water treatment system from well to supply:

Well X- troll 302 86 gallon pressure tank pressure tank
Watts - FH10000BL1PR-IB 4x20 filter housing (Retail Pure Water Part # PWHIB20FF
Atlas Hydra Spin Down Filter - RA6000041 HYDRA 1” Stainless Steel RAH 90 micron 1" NPT IN 90 1
Air Tank - 2cf 12x52 never used and in bypass mode (no micronizer installed)
Neutralizer - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54
Katalox Light - 2cf backwashing 5810SXT 12x52
Softener - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54
ATS UV SL-8 8 gpm UV Light

I have never had to add calcite to my neutralizer. Even though my ph is around 7, I assume over 3 years some calcite would have been used. While searching for answers, I read a post where Dr. Dittohead recommended tapping on the neutralizer while in backwash to find out if if feels like a drum or brick (bad calcite bed), so I am going to try that in the next few days. Should I be concerned?

What is the standard of disinfecting plumbing yearly in the absence of chlorine? I add two teaspoons of unscented bleach (water softener in bypass) to the water filter sump every time I change or clean a filter and replace the UV bulb and sleeve and let the mixture sit in the equipment for roughly 15 minutes before opening the valves to supply the house. How often should a UV quartz sleeve been replaced with all of the above equipment on front of it?

I was thinking of adding 2 cups of bleach to a sump (with softener in bypass) and circulating the mixture through the house's copper plumbing and let stand for an hour or two but I am afraid of getting hard water stains on fixtures when I flush. I don't want to damage the softener's resin either.... I also read that increasing the water temp in the water heater to 150 or higher will kill any bacteria in the heater. I assume that flushing the hot water lines will kill anything in them?

At the 3+ year mark, what maintenance is required to the 5800 valves?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Neil

 

[Water Pro]

Hello All,

Its been a while...

I have the following 3 year old water treatment system from well to supply:

Well X- troll 302 86 gallon pressure tank pressure tank
Watts - FH10000BL1PR-IB 4x20 filter housing (Retail Pure Water Part # PWHIB20FF
Atlas Hydra Spin Down Filter - RA6000041 HYDRA 1” Stainless Steel RAH 90 micron 1" NPT IN 90 1
Air Tank - 2cf 12x52 never used and in bypass mode (no micronizer installed)
Neutralizer - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54
Katalox Light - 2cf backwashing 5810SXT 12x52
Softener - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54
ATS UV SL-8 8 gpm UV Light

I have never had to add calcite to my neutralizer. Even though my ph is around 7, I assume over 3 years some calcite would have been used. While searching for answers, I read a post where Dr. Dittohead recommended tapping on the neutralizer while in backwash to find out if if feels like a drum or brick (bad calcite bed), so I am going to try that in the next few days. Should I be concerned?

What is the standard of disinfecting plumbing yearly in the absence of chlorine? I add two teaspoons of unscented bleach (water softener in bypass) to the water filter sump every time I change or clean a filter and replace the UV bulb and sleeve and let the mixture sit in the equipment for roughly 15 minutes before opening the valves to supply the house. How often should a UV quartz sleeve been replaced with all of the above equipment on front of it?

I was thinking of adding 2 cups of bleach to a sump (with softener in bypass) and circulating the mixture through the house's copper plumbing and let stand for an hour or two but I am afraid of getting hard water stains on fixtures when I flush. I don't want to damage the softener's resin either.... I also read that increasing the water temp in the water heater to 150 or higher will kill any bacteria in the heater. I assume that flushing the hot water lines will kill anything in them?

At the 3+ year mark, what maintenance is required to the 5800 valves?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Neil

doesn't sound like you need the neutralizer. The UV bulb should be changed yearly. To sanitize, bypass the tanks, close the valve before and after the filter housing. take the filter out and fill the housing with chlorine, then open up all the cold faucets and one hot faucet and open the shut-offs. you don't need to let it sit. Cl kills on contact. ps. wear safety glasses.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Aaroninnh]

Do you have a fill port on your neutralizer so you can measure the level? Or maybe the almond tank you can shine a light through?

 

[Neil64]

I have an almond neutralizer tank that I can shine a light through and also a fill port. After 3 + years, the calcium carbonate level is not quite 1/4" lower than when it was shipped and installed. I have never opened the fill port or tapped on the tank while it is regening to see if it is a brick or drum.

Water Pro, are you suggesting I bypass all tanks - neutralizer, Katalox Lite, and the Softener when sanitizing with unscented bleach? Also, if I don't need the neutralizer, should I keep it in bypass? I assume I would see some improvement in water pressure and volume and eliminate regens once a week. I guess the only negative could be if my ph suddenly changes.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance...

Neil

 

[Water Pro]

I have an almond neutralizer tank that I can shine a light through and also a fill port. After 3 + years, the calcium carbonate level is not quite 1/4" lower than when it was shipped and installed. I have never opened the fill port or tapped on the tank while it is regening to see if it is a brick or drum.

Water Pro, are you suggesting I bypass all tanks - neutralizer, Katalox Lite, and the Softener when sanitizing with unscented bleach? Also, if I don't need the neutralizer, should I keep it in bypass? I assume I would see some improvement in water pressure and volume and eliminate regens once a week. I guess the only negative could be if my ph suddenly changes.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance...

Neil

yes. bypass the tanks. your only looking to sanitize the house lines and water heater. It can't hurt to leave the neutralizer in service long-term. you'll still need to backwash once weekly..

 

[ditttohead]

Assuming your water is decent, no real maintenance is needed on the valves. You could add a small amount of bleach to the brine tank to sanitize the resin. Definitely let the bleach go through the KL, it likes bleach.

 

[Aaroninnh]

I have an almond neutralizer tank that I can shine a light through and also a fill port. After 3 + years, the calcium carbonate level is not quite 1/4" lower than when it was shipped and installed. I have never opened the fill port or tapped on the tank while it is regening to see if it is a brick or drum.
Neil

Have you checked your raw pH? If you arent using calcite, id suspect your pH isn't very low. I go through around .5cF of calcite every 24 months. While my media was packed, the water still seemed to eat it.

 

[Neil64]

Thanks all for the replies, suggestions and info.

I ran about 1 to 2 cups of bleach in my Atlas Hydra Spin down filter to sanitize plumbing with all treatment devices in front of it in bypass. Hopefully it didn't compromise my 20 micron paper filter in front of it.

I did tap on my neutralizer tank during regen, both during BW and RR. It felt more like a brick than drum. Does that mean the media is packed or bad?

Ditto, how often should the brine tank be sanitized and with how much bleach? Is there a written procedure to follow? I was under the impression that the softener's resin would be destroyed with bleach. Also, do you know where I can get a spare Atlas Hydra o-ring, mesh and/or filter housing?

As for pH, I hope to have my treated water tested in the next few weeks and will post results.

Thanks...

Neil

 

[Reach4]

I ran about 1 to 2 cups of bleach in my Atlas Hydra Spin down filter to sanitize plumbing with all treatment devices in front of it in bypass. Hopefully it didn't compromise my 20 micron paper filter in front of it.

You should not use cellulose paper filters with non-chlorinated water.

With your method, the hot will typically be largely diluted by the tank water softener, unless you, at least partially, drain the WH or do other steps to make the hot get more chlorine. I like test strips, or smelling chlorine, at each faucet during sanitizing.

I would sanitize my brine tank during my well and plumbing sanitizing. That has been about 3 or 4 years for me. Probably should do it again, but I have had no symptoms. I think I did an effective job last time.

 

[Neil64]

My mistake. My sediment filter is Cellulose-free synthetic filter media. I assume that is OK to use in non-chlorinated water?

Is sanitizing/disinfecting cold vs. hot water or vice versa more important? I focused on the cold water side.

Thanks...

 

[Reach4]

Is sanitizing/disinfecting cold vs. hot water or vice versa more important? I focused on the cold water side.

If you get H2S smell, I think hot would be important too.

I think you would want everything downstream of your UV light sanitized.

I suspect you don't have a deep well, and hence the UV.

 

[Neil64]

My well is 237'.

Very, very infrequent H2S small since water treatment system was installed.

 

[Reach4]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well and plumbing sanitizing writeup. It is more work than what most people do.

I suspect that if you sanitized nicely, and then later took good sample of raw water even months later, then you could find the UV was not actually needed. I am not a pro.

If you run UV, you would want the plumbing downstream of the UV sanitized. That would prevent SRB from acting in your water heater.

 

[Neil64]

What micron level do you folks typically recommend to protect water treatment valves - neutralizer, KL, softener, UV from sediment and other nasties? Currently using a 90 micron Atlas Hydra spin down followed by a 4x20 Big Blue with a 20 micron non- cellulose filter. Any reason to filter below 20 microns?

Thanks...

 

[Reach4]

Yes. You must have 5 micron before the UV. The reason is so that a beastie cannot hide in the shadow of a particle.

 

[Neil64]

The UV is last (last piece of equipment before faucets) or downstream of softener -> KL ->Neutralizer. My understanding is KL filters down to 3 microns so unless softener is seriously increasing mineral size, wouldn't UV light be OK? . Sediment filters were installed to protect water treatment valves. So I guess my question is at what micron level do these valves need protection?

Thanks..

 

[Reach4]

The UV is last (last piece of equipment before faucets) or downstream of softener -> KL ->Neutralizer. My understanding is KL filters down to 3 microns so unless softener is seriously increasing mineral size, wouldn't UV light be OK? .

No, not in my opinion. KL says 5 microns, but I expect it could shed its own particles. 5 microns for KL is probably over-optimistic.

Read the directions for your UV.

Sediment filters were installed to protect water treatment valves. So I guess my question is at what micron level do these valves need protection?

I would think 100 microns would be more than enough. I have my backwashing H2S+iron filter as my front end, right after the pressure tank. It uses a softener valve. I suspect I could pump up 5000 (0.2 inch) micron stuff on rare occasion. Maybe I should have a wye filter screen in front, but I do not.

 

[ditttohead]

In general a KL is totally adequate for sediment reduction ahead of a UV. The media has shown itself to be very stable with virtually no kick off. Most of our testing has shown it to effectively reduce to sub 5 micron consistently.

 

[Neil64]

Thanks all for your help and advice.