Water treatment advice

[Charlees Larrabee]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iiuwnTSWz5ZDFSTFlSYUhsMlU <--- Water test results from 1 year ago when I bought the home. The well was sitting for 12 months before the sample was taken. I'll be getting a new test done soon. I had a local shop come to my home last week and they tested the Iron on-site as 1PPM from raw water now. I believe they were being honest as they told me that my current softener is doing it's job and that I would not need one of there system. (Before Softer Iron was tested at 1 ppm and after softener was .3 ppm. It seems like my softener is still working to some extent, but I'm seeing staining either from the Iron or the Manganese.

I first purchased a GE under cabinet softener and that was working incredible for about 6 months, but now I feel as the resin needs to be changed. Soap still forms when doing dishes and such but when taking showers the water doesn't feel nearly as nice. We are also starting to get some dark staining in the shower and toilet bowls again. (I have tried several treatments of Iron Out, two treatments of Citric Acid and one treatment of a 2% sulfuric acid solution. The brine tank is working correctly and I've checked all components to make sure there is no blockage.

When I first purchased the home the water had a very slight sulfur smell that however is no longer an issue and is gone even from raw water. I have noticed that when bypassing the softener the water has a very string metallic smell now that is similar to the old sulfur smell. (Smells like rust to me). The metallic smell is still there after the softener but much more tolerable.

Before I ask what system I need to correct my water problem I want to start off by getting recommendations on everything I should have tested beforehand.

 

[ditttohead]

Get a good well test.
http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/me...NTL&Product_Code=9003&Category_Code=Homeowner

This is the test we prefer.

Assuming everything comes back as expected, an iron reduction system possibly with an oxidant injection system ahead of it, and a softener should do.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Charlees Larrabee]

Get a good well test.
http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/me...NTL&Product_Code=9003&Category_Code=Homeowner

This is the test we prefer.

Assuming everything comes back as expected, an iron reduction system possibly with an oxidant injection system ahead of it, and a softener should do.

I'm guessing when you say oxidant system your referring to chlorine injection? I have looked into it but my biggest concern is space. It may be possible but I'm jot sure I'll have the room for a retention tank.

Also, does that test listed include IRB and SRB? I'm worried I might have because of a slight slime build up in the toilet bowl tank. Atleast it seems like slime

Edit: The system I'm most interested in is katalox lite filter in either 1.5 or 2 cuft with a fleck 2510. I'm hoping this will be the solution after getting the lab results

 

[ditttohead]

The KL systems are great. Typical applications do not need the contact tank with KL, the KL is continuously regenerated with the chlorine. If IRB or SRB are present then a contact tank would be advised.

Have you sanitized your well and plumbing?

 

[Charlees Larrabee]

The KL systems are great. Typical applications do not need the contact tank with KL, the KL is continuously regenerated with the chlorine. If IRB or SRB are present then a contact tank would be advised.

Have you sanitized your well and plumbing?

Not yet, I need to figure out my well size first. There was no information on the papers when I bought the home. Any recommendations?

 

[Reach4]

Not yet, I need to figure out my well size first. There was no information on the papers when I bought the home. Any recommendations?

Look for labels on or by your pressure tank. There may be notes written on one (well depth, pump depth, static water level). The label of the last well person there will have contact info, and that person/company may have records about your well. The sellers may be glad to tell you what they can remember about the well.

You don't totally need to know the size to sanitize. Instead, use test papers. Even if you know the size, I would use test papers. Knowing the well would be useful for knowing how much chlorine bleach and vinegar to buy as a minimum, but otherwise it is not necessary. The first line of https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ has a link to a nice sanitizing article, but then I go into my possibly-overkill extension.

Measure the casing OD or circumference for starters. Is it PVC or steel? If the OD is 5.5, the ID is probably 5. That is big enough to drop chlorine pellets to the bottom. With a 4 inch casing, you can only use liquid. If you use only liquid, you need more flooding volume. Knowing the well is important for flooding volume calculation, but you could put in a larger amount. Definitely use much more than the Moravec article if using liquid only, as explained in my sanitizing thread.

Ask your nearby neighbors how deep their wells are. It's not a given, but often nearby wells are similar depth.