Water right sanitizer series softener needs resin replaced is it worth it and if so how

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quartermilecamel

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I have the sanitizer series with chlorine generator and zeolite resin put in in 2008. waters not real soft anymore. Thinking about replacing the resin myself. Suggested cost of people to do it that are now Culligan and were water pro when I bought it said 500 bucks just to replace the resin with regular resin and install a resin cleaner drip in salt tank because of the iron bacteria which we have. When I called him today and got the quote of 500 just for resin, he also asked how's the piston. Far as I know the piston is still working. Should I even attempt this? seems people are doing it on YouTube now. Id rather not spend 3000 bucks on another gimmick softener like the 1st one that lasted a dam year with tons of iron bacteria in it(wasn't the right system for me I guess).
I would imagine have the water tested by the softener place and go from there, but dunno what kind of resin to get or where other than ebay. AT the time of softener install, on the cover they wrote iron was 4.0 and ph was 7.2 and hardness was 32. sulphur was .3. tds was 1170. Zeolite doesn't last as long as regular resin?
Not sure if this resin cleaners expensive, pain in the butt or just plain is regular resin the way to go. Looking for guidance on what do to. Figured since my cycle stop valve is working like magic from advice I've got from this site, and so far I really like it, thought Id come over here for some insight.
Manual for softener is here. https://www.water-right.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/4200-Sanitizer-series-Manual.pdf
 

Water Pro

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I have the sanitizer series with chlorine generator and zeolite resin put in in 2008. waters not real soft anymore. Thinking about replacing the resin myself. Suggested cost of people to do it that are now Culligan and were water pro when I bought it said 500 bucks just to replace the resin with regular resin and install a resin cleaner drip in salt tank because of the iron bacteria which we have. When I called him today and got the quote of 500 just for resin, he also asked how's the piston. Far as I know the piston is still working. Should I even attempt this? seems people are doing it on YouTube now. Id rather not spend 3000 bucks on another gimmick softener like the 1st one that lasted a dam year with tons of iron bacteria in it(wasn't the right system for me I guess).
I would imagine have the water tested by the softener place and go from there, but dunno what kind of resin to get or where other than ebay. AT the time of softener install, on the cover they wrote iron was 4.0 and ph was 7.2 and hardness was 32. sulphur was .3. tds was 1170. Zeolite doesn't last as long as regular resin?
Not sure if this resin cleaners expensive, pain in the butt or just plain is regular resin the way to go. Looking for guidance on what do to. Figured since my cycle stop valve is working like magic from advice I've got from this site, and so far I really like it, thought Id come over here for some insight.
Manual for softener is here. https://www.water-right.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/4200-Sanitizer-series-Manual.pdf
The sanitizer is a good unit (for softening water). They claim zeolite to be a cure all, but in the real world iron should be treated (separately) prior to softening. while a softener can handle around 1 1/2 ppm iron, it's not an efficient (cost effective) long term solution and, as you discovered, often results in premature failure. The best treatment methods, when applied correctly, are designed to last 20 yrs and more. TDS is something in and of itself. The only thing that will reduce that is a reverse osmosis system. your TDS IS significant
 
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quartermilecamel

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so the next question is do I rebed itj with zeolite? or screw it and just go with hard water. new water softeners are 3 grand now??? would think I could rebed it myself but dont yet know that or if zeolite is available.
 

quartermilecamel

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so the next question is do I rebed itj with zeolite? or screw it and just go with hard water. new water softeners are 3 grand now??? would think I could rebed it myself but dont yet know that or if zeolite is available.
 

ditttohead

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Honestly, before you do anything, a real water test should be completed. it sounds like it has been a long time since you had a real water test. here is a link to a great water testing company. I have used them for many years. Look for the well test.

NTLWATERTEST
 

quartermilecamel

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got the control board installed. Now the regen lights work. after regen it has the yellow and red lights lit. Used to show a green light but now, just yellow and red. It does use salt so I dont even know how it knows somethings not right. Makes me think something failed and needs attention. I just dont know what. Might try and take out the piston and look at that.
 

quartermilecamel

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The YELLOW light with the red light indicates a failed chlorine regeneration signal and the unit is
still in regeneration....from manual........ How is this even possable as the unit stops at the end of regeneration yet lights are yellow and red.
 

Water Pro

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The YELLOW light with the red light indicates a failed chlorine regeneration signal and the unit is
still in regeneration....from manual........ How is this even possable as the unit stops at the end of regeneration yet lights are yellow and red.
is the CL generator plugged into the control board correctly. If I remember correctly it allows you to plug it in either way, but only functions in one direction.
 

quartermilecamel

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going to look. chlorine generator can onlly be plugged in one way. Lights are red and yellow. with old control board, the yellow light would be on dimly but on with occasional flickering. and the alarm would sound....now after regenerationwith the used control board, the alarm sound is off but have yellow and red lights. Green light was normally on after a successfull regeneration. would love to know how this softener knew when it ran out of salt and we would have to regenerate it a coiuple of times to get green light.
 
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Skyjumper

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even if it were working, that chlorine generator will not solve your iron problem. it may kill or reduce the IRB, but the iron itself will remain. if you really do have 4ppm iron then that softener is completely clogged with iron deposits. the resin, the valve, the whole thing. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. if you could get parts for it you could do a complete disassembly/cleaning/rebuild and resin rebed, but it would cheaper and easier to just get a new softener. A Clack, which is the gold standard in my opinion, is 1/2 the cost you are thinking. but with 4ppm iron you really need a dedicated iron filter before the softener like waterpro said. resin cleaners are cheap and I use them, but there's only so much they can do. 4ppm is too much iron.
 
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