Water pump pressure switch leaking

[Dr_1400]

Newbie on this, any help appreciated - I have a steady drip from my water pump pressure switch. Off grid cabin, water is turned on/drained approx 10 times per year during winter, guessing maybe it’s just time to replace.

Question - previous owner had pressure set at 72 PSI. Said after playing with it over the years, that’s what works best. The switch, though, is 20/40. Could this cause issues? I see different switches (40/60, etc). If I do replace this, am I better off swapping to a different model?

 

[WorthFlorida]

Depending on pump HP. If it one of the cabin type combo with 1/2 hp, 20/40 is the appropriate setting. The previous owner cranked it to get more water and luckily the motor did not burn out.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dr_1400]

Depending on pump HP. If it one of the cabin type combo with 1/2 hp, 20/40 is the appropriate setting. The previous owner cranked it to get more water and luckily the motor did burn out.

Thank you. I will stick with 20/40, as I’m not sure on pump HP. I don’t have any documentation on that from previous owners.

 

[Dr_1400]

I should actually ask - any harm/risk of issue in going up to 70 PSI with a 20/40? It seems to have been working, just not sure if I’m asking for trouble.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The maximum pressure for most pump/well system systems is 40/60.

If you can take a picture and one of the label would help. Is your gauge accurate? Use a hand held gauge to compare to a fixed one on the tank.

Is it a bladder type tank?

 

[Dr_1400]

The maximum pressure for most pump/well system systems is 40/60.

If you can take a picture and one of the label would help. Is your gauge accurate? Use a hand held gauge to compare to a fixed one on the tank.

Is it a bladder type tank?

Thank you. Here is a picture of my tank, hope it helps.
I am not there now so cannot confirm accuracy with a hand held gauge

 

[Dr_1400]

Also, here is the switch info. Was going to replace with another 20/40, but figure I’ll be turning that adjustment but quite a while to get back up to 72 psi that he had it at.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The tank is designed for up to 100 psi. If you to crank it up then use a 40/60 switch but leave it at 60. Your plumbing system is aging and too much pressure can blow things up. Faucets and fixtures are usually rated at 150 psi max but when new.

 

[Dr_1400]

Very good, thank you. That’s more attractive than messing with it trying to get to 72. Will swapping to a 40/60 switch require any changes to piping? Still 1/4” on that nipple?

 

[Valveman]

That 1/4" nipple is galvanized and is probably the cause of the leak. Replace it with a brass or SS nipple. Looks like you have a submersible pump. It should be able to build as much pressure as you want. 50/70 is not uncommon for a submersible, which is much more than a jet pump as I think Worth was thinking. Get a 30/50 or a 40/60 switch, whichever you can find, and adjust the large screw only to make it what you want.

 

[WorthFlorida]

When it was described as off grid cabin, I was assuming a pump/tank combo unit.

 

[Dr_1400]

Yes, it’s a submersible well pump. All I know is it’s supposedly 150’ below the surface. No looking forward to the day it fails!
I will swap the nipple to brass and upgrade the switch to 40/60 with the intent of cranking it up to match the current switch setup of 52 (I assume, haven’t checked it) and 72.
If I do that, I shouldn’t need to mess with adjusting the tank pressure - is that correct?

 

[Valveman]

I would check the tank while the pump is off and water is drained. It needs between 45 and 50 PSI air charge if the pump starts at 52. Tanks are going to fail, usually sooner than latter. If it doesn't hold air it would be a good time to upgrade to a PK1A kit with a Cycle Stop Valve and a 4.5 gallon size tank. Nobody wants to have to replace the pump and the CSV will make the pump last longer.

 

[Dr_1400]

I would check the tank while the pump is off and water is drained. It needs between 45 and 50 PSI air charge if the pump starts at 52. Tanks are going to fail, usually sooner than latter. If it doesn't hold air it would be a good time to upgrade to a PK1A kit with a Cycle Stop Valve and a 4.5 gallon size tank. Nobody wants to have to replace the pump and the CSV will make the pump last longer.

That’s interesting, thank you. It might not be a good fit for us, though. The cabin runs on a generator, and only has a sink faucet and bathroom faucet and toilet that are regularly used. We don’t shower there. We often use the cabin with no power on, only using the generator periodically (such as to start the pump to refill the tank)

 

[Reach4]

Yes, it’s a submersible well pump. All I know is it’s supposedly 150’ below the surface. No looking forward to the day it fails!
I will swap the nipple to brass and upgrade the switch to 40/60 with the intent of cranking it up to match the current switch setup of 52 (I assume, haven’t checked it) and 72.
If I do that, I shouldn’t need to mess with adjusting the tank pressure - is that correct?

With a submersible pump, set the air precharge to 2 psi below the cut-in pressure. Air precharge is measured and set with the water pressure at zero.

If the air precharge is too high, no big deal, unless you get a pressure switch with a lever. Don't get a lever. The water pressure will stutter when the pump starts, because the pressure tank does not have water to deliver for that brief time. Air precharge way too low stretches the diaphragm.

 

[Dr_1400]

With a submersible pump, set the air precharge to 2 psi below the cut-in pressure. Air precharge is measured and set with the water pressure at zero.

If the air precharge is too high, no big deal, unless you get a pressure switch with a lever. Don't get a lever. The water pressure will stutter when the pump starts, because the pressure tank does not have water to deliver for that brief time. Air precharge way too low stretches the diaphragm.

Thank you, good to know that the empty pressure can be higher than 2 psi below cut in pressure.
I’ve never tested the air pressure with the system drained, very curious to see what’s going on there.