Valve Box Contents

Discussion in 'Irrigation / Sprinkler Forum' started by AbDIYer, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. AbDIYer

    AbDIYer New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2020
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    Hi all,

    I've had Rain Bird design an irrigation system for me, and I've taken it upon myself to work up the valve box...I'm not a fan of burying utilities, especially when I'm likely to need to replace pieces when they freeze (as I'm in a Northern Climate).

    Here is the picture of a basic layout of it...keep in mind that there are a couple of missing 90 degree bends, and the tee nearest the brass PEX fitting is threaded for an air hose connection to blow the system out (or plug with a male cap when in use).

    I guess my question is: does anybody see any issues with the design? I know I could have saved on some fittings by using female slip unions, and I may still do that. I'm using all of this Carson valve box length (33"), so I'd like to cut down on some of the fluff....are the two 1/4 turn valves just upstream of my flow control valves really necessary? Is it something that is useful ever needed in your experience?

    Valve Box Design.jpg

    Thanks in Advance!
    Ken
     
  2. drick

    drick In the Trades

    Joined:
    May 16, 2008
    You are overthinking this. Your system won't freeze as long as you blow it out properly. I designed and installed a system with 15 zones and after 15 years not one valve has failed. Save yourself some $ and get rid of the unions and extra 1/4 shutoffs as you will never need them. Leave enough space between the valves so you can unscrew a valve from the line in the event one does fail. Where you are missing the 90 before the valve I would use a T and cap the unused end leaving enough pipe so that you could cut off the cap and add another zone if you decide you need it someday.

    I'm not totally clear with what you are trying to accomplish with the parts before the T. Generally you would want to blow out the system from just after the anti siphon valve that is usually (but not always) located where the water line enters your house. As you have things set up you will be able to blow out the two zones, but not the main line. Also is the black component after the first 1/4 valve a backflow preventer? If yes I wouldn't think you would really need one as your main line should be under positive pressure all the time.
     
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  4. AbDIYer

    AbDIYer New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2020
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    Hi Drick, thanks for your reply!

    I'm definitely overthinking this lol you're absolutely correct. The tee is a good idea, I had originally planned that and bought a cap, but forgot for this picture. Since the piping system shown is only for my front yard I will have to tie into it next year when I do the back yard.

    By eliminating the unions and two of the three 1/4 turn valves, I may have enough room for the front and backyard system in the same valve box...awesome!!!

    As for the backflow preventer, the water meter is in the house so immediately after the meter I have a double check valve. Since the 1/4 turn valve will be just outside the house, anything upstream of the 1/4 turn valve will be in the house and drain naturally through a drain I've installed. The black component is a rain bird pressure regulator (my water service is at 90psi and 22Gpm).

    Thanks again for your help!

    Ken
     
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