Uponor expansion fitting not fully seated, other questions.

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mntnresq

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First, thanks for any advice or feedback. Sorry if this is a bit long, just want to give detail.

I have a five year old house which is plumbed all with Uponor Aquapex. This house is my first exposure to it.

I have a tiny bit of experience with Pex B (crimp) types, and a good amount with copper. I really like the idea of the expansion system, but this intimidates me a bit, mostly because mistakes seem harder to fix.

Nonetheless, I went ahead and spliced in a couple circuits to add another sillcock in the back of the house, and a hot/cold one in the garage. Both went in and work, but not without issue, which is where my questions come in.

At first, I bought one of the manual tools, thinking - "I'm only doing a few connections". Hah. I did some practice connections on scrap pieces of both 1/2 and 3/4 which seemed to go fine, but my first attempt on the real thing was a mess. Teeing into a 3/4 in the joist cavity overhead with not great space, I ran into several instances of the ring sliding up (didn't know about this issue if pipe was wet at the time). Cut it it back, try again, repeat. But on an established line without much slack available, I was in trouble. Finally got it on the third try. After that, bought the DeWalt expander, knowing that my next splice would be into 1" (and eventually plan to finish the basement).

This is where my first question comes.

For the hot/cold one, I tied in two 3/4 lines to the 1" mains. On one side of the cold, I either didn't expand enough, or was too slow, and wasnt able to get the fitting pushed in all the way to the stops. There is about a 1/16" gap. How concerned about that should I be?

It's not leaking, and has been in place for about three weeks without issue. I've even tried to "shock" it by opening and slamming valves and depressurizing/refilling the whole system several times, with no apparent movement.

Assuming that it's bad, and I should redo it, is the next question. The whole house (and I) used the EP plastic fittings. I know Uponor says they cannot be re-used but I've not been able to find an explanation anywhere of why. Is it a strength thing, where if they've been compressed on once, they risk breaking if done again, or just the likelihood of leakage from trying to get them apart and scoring them?

In this case, re-using it wouldn't be a hard fix, just need to splice in a short section of 1" and a union on the one side. I have no slack on any side to cut it out and pull the ends in to a new fitting.

If I cant re-use it, then the only thing I can maybe do is cut the whole tee out and replace it with short pieces and unions all around, IF I can get in the space to do it. That, and six joints instead of three seems less desirable.

I'll add some pics as well. Any experience/advice would be greatly appreciated.

One last, semi-related ques- I heard or read recently that the Uponor Pex A should not be used with hot water recirculation systems, as apparently the constant heat and flow breaks down the pipe and causes failures. My house has a recirc, which has been running almost the whole time. Does anyone have any knowledge of this being an issue? I do notice that the hot side of my white 1" main lines is quite a bit discolored compared to the cold side.

Thanks again for any help.
 

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Breplum

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You are very likely ok with the small insertion gap.
I have removed on a shop bench a test set up on a Uponor plastic fitting and felt fine reusing.
In the field, if you can not touch/scratch/score the fitting and remove then I would think it is fine.
I might just use a Sharkbite slip coupling for a boxed out tight spot, OR do a jog with four 90s.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...rass-Slip-Coupling-Fitting-U3020LFA/202270517
I am not worried about any of our installed Uponor Pex recirc systems, but would like to hear factual info.
 

Jeff H Young

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Actualy i think there is a tolerance of 1/16" I think joint is ok. but not we want . As for recirc check with manufacture, they use pex all the time for radiant heat.
As for reusing fittings Ive only done pex a few times but once was for 6 monthes daily. I cut out fittings and reused they were brass its kind of hard not to nick and the slightest nick caused leaks. lucky they were found imediatly and fixed easily. but thats the issue is removing without damage.
the discoloration might want to ask manufacture about as well
 

Reach4

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Actualy i think there is a tolerance of 1/16" I think joint is ok. but not we want .
https://pimmedia.winsupplyinc.com/p...IANT---AQUAPEX_A1252500_0626A1252500_INTA.pdf says
ProPEX Fittings
• Seat the Uponor AquaPEX tubing and ProPEX Ring fully against the shoulder of the fitting. The maximum gap should be no more than the thickness of a credit card [0.03 inch].
• To correct an improper connection, cut a minimum of 2" from the end of the tubing and use a new ProPEX Ring.
I agree that a 1/16 gap in practice will be fine. I have one of those for a few years, and I may replace it for cosmetic reasons.


I have removed on a shop bench a test set up on a Uponor plastic fitting and felt fine reusing.
In the field, if you can not touch/scratch/score the fitting and remove then I would think it is fine.
I have done that. I think I used a single edge razor blade with a locking pliers on the blade, serving as a depth limit as well as a handle. Cutting through the ring alone may be enough to get the PEX off, but cutting half way thru the pipe may help. I don't remember how far I went.
 
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mntnresq

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Actualy i think there is a tolerance of 1/16" I think joint is ok. but not we want . As for recirc check with manufacture, they use pex all the time for radiant heat.
As for reusing fittings Ive only done pex a few times but once was for 6 monthes daily. I cut out fittings and reused they were brass its kind of hard not to nick and the slightest nick caused leaks. lucky they were found imediatly and fixed easily. but thats the issue is removing without damage.
the discoloration might want to ask manufacture about as well

Ok, thanks. Everything I've seen from Uponor basically says they must be fully seated, but like most MFR's I'm sure that is more of a way for them to cover themselves for warranty purposes. I think I have enough access to cut back the one side and get the pipe off without damaging the fitting if I'm careful.

I'm working on framing for the rest of the basement, so it will be a while before I potentially rock over it, so I can watch it for another month or so, and make a call whether I feel like I should replace it.
 

mntnresq

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Hmmm. I don't recall seeing the .030" value anywhere before, but that is also way less than 1/16" (.0625). Guess I will try to redo that side.

Like I said, I think I can get it apart without damaging the fitting, I just had not seen a reason given for why Uponor said the plastic ones can't be re-used, and was more worried about some other type of catastrophic failure if the thing was just going to crumble on a second compression.
 

Reach4

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Hmmm. I don't recall seeing the .030" value anywhere before, but that is also way less than 1/16" (.0625). Guess I will try to redo that side.
I just measured mine: 0.15. Guess I should replace that one of these days, before anybody plumbing-knowledgeable sees it.
 

Jeff H Young

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Imost certainly wouldnt leave a fitting with more than a 1/16th that about the max. my little experiance with pex found me to belive they arent that forgiving. but with paying good attention arent that hard to get right either.
 

Reach4

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Imost certainly wouldnt leave a fitting with more than a 1/16th that about the max. my little experiance with pex found me to belive they arent that forgiving. but with paying good attention arent that hard to get right either.
I only did it once. Facepalm. Hand tool (not a good excuse).
2384_facepalm.png
 

mntnresq

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Ok, sounds like I should definitely change it. However, next stupid question.

I ordered most of my fittings online, but ran to my local parts house to grab a few more (for just such an occasion) and they are a bit different, and appear to be from a third-party Mfr.

I thought initially that Uponor may have just updated their style, but now I'm not sure. They look more like the Zurn expansion style (didn't even know they had such a line until last night). Are they compatible? I'm dubious of them as the sealing ridge is much smaller than the original Uponor part. I figure worst case, I can use the 1 x 1 x 1/2 Tee I have as a union, and just plug the 1/2 side.

Thanks again
 

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Reach4

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I thought initially that Uponor may have just updated their style, but now I'm not sure. They look more like the Zurn expansion style (didn't even know they had such a line until last night). Are they compatible? I'm dubious of them as the sealing ridge is much smaller than the original Uponor part. I figure worst case, I can use the 1 x 1 x 1/2 Tee I have as a union, and just plug the 1/2 side.
If they are F1960, they should be compatible.

https://www.zurn.com/innovation-efficiency/pex says
F1960 EXPANSION FITTINGS AND RINGS
Available in both lead-free brass and high strength corrosion resistant polymer, in sizes 1/2" through 2", we offer a patent pending line of expansion rings and a full line of tees, elbows, couplings, adapters, stub ells, test plugs, valves, and multi-port fittings.

Our pipe and fittings are third-party certified to perform up to the strictest requirements. Since our system is manufactured to the ASTM F1960 standard, your current F1960 expansion tool is all you’ll need. Fewer expansions required means you can install faster.​
 

mntnresq

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If they are F1960, they should be compatible.

https://www.zurn.com/innovation-efficiency/pex says
F1960 EXPANSION FITTINGS AND RINGS
Available in both lead-free brass and high strength corrosion resistant polymer, in sizes 1/2" through 2", we offer a patent pending line of expansion rings and a full line of tees, elbows, couplings, adapters, stub ells, test plugs, valves, and multi-port fittings.

Our pipe and fittings are third-party certified to perform up to the strictest requirements. Since our system is manufactured to the ASTM F1960 standard, your current F1960 expansion tool is all you’ll need. Fewer expansions required means you can install faster.​
It was marked F1960, so I went for it, and cut back the one side of the Tee and replaced a short section. I was able to remove the pipe without scratching the fitting. So far so good, and I feel better about it. On to drywall!

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
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