Toto Drake iron stains

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by v4brad, Mar 11, 2009.

  1. v4brad

    v4brad New Member

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    Rocky Mountains
    I installed a Drake with Sanagloss in my master bath in 1984. I am getting ready to purchase another Drake for the main bath to replace a Crane contractor special. I'm wondering if there is something about the Sanagloss finish that attracts iron stains.

    The bowl on the Drake starts turning pink below the water line a few days after cleaning. The Crane never turns pink. I believe it is iron because one time I replaced the water softener salt with an iron reducing salt and the pink disappeared until I started using regular salt again.

    Any thoughts on why the Drake discolors and not the old Crane? Is there anything I can do about it other than use expensive softener salt? Thank you!
     
  2. gusherb94

    gusherb94 Member

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    where did you get a toto in 1984? they didnt even come to america until 1990,unless your somewhere else.
     
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  4. v4brad

    v4brad New Member

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    Oops! I previewed that post 5 times. Must be getting old. What I really meant was 2004. :)
     
  5. gusherb94

    gusherb94 Member

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    thats what i thought. :D:p
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2009
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Pink could be iron reducing bacteria...I get that in my toilets, both the newer Totos and in the original builder's special I had in there.
     
  7. v4brad

    v4brad New Member

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    I hadn't heard of iron reducing bacteria before. Here is a link with some info about it: IronSulphurBacteria.pdf Sounds like it is usually associated with well water. I'm on chlorinated city water so hopefully I'm okay.
     
  8. Peanut9199

    Peanut9199 Customer Service Manager Plumbing Wholesale

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    I have the Soiree with the Sanagloss and it does turn pink as well, i thought it was because i don't flush at night and it builds up.
    I do not have any problem with rust or iron and i have two other Soiree's in the house and don't have an issue with them.
     
  9. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    I'm on a city water supply, and I get it in the toilet, and around the edges of the tub (no Sanagloss on that!).
     
  10. v4brad

    v4brad New Member

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    Very strange -- this pink business. :confused: I Wonder if there is something in the sanagloss finish that attracts iron molecules. I've ordered another Drake (w/ sg) for the main bath to replace the Crane and it will be interesting to see what it does. I'm betting it will go pink as well. My water softener has two or three months of salt in it. When it gets real low I'll put the iron reducing salt in it again.
     
  11. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

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    Connecticut
    Serratia marcescens

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serratia_marcescens
     
  12. v4brad

    v4brad New Member

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    So I got my second Drake and installed it in the main bath. So far no pink in the bowl. In the event that the pink in the other Drake was biological I did the chlorine bleach shock treatment. It has only been a day and a half but so far it seems to have helped.

    BTW, the new Drake is quieter. I like that.
     
  13. jsbsmarcescens

    jsbsmarcescens New Member

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    Sep 14, 2017
    Location:
    North Central Texas
    I joined this forum just to post the solution to this problem; a solution that works so well everyone should know about it. The post above correctly identifies the culprit as bacteria named serratia marcescens, but does not give this wonderful, bleach-fumes-free, easy, permanent solution for getting rid of it. I found many inquiries about how to clean off this common problem, but only found the answer in one place, which is why I'm spreading the news around.

    Some key words to help people find this page: pink orange deposit growth mold bacteria shower tub grout serratia marcescens prevent rid.

    This works so well it is effectively MAGIC and deserves the widest possible disemination. I'd been cleaning off this slimy stuff for fifty years and assumed it was in the water and left a deposit when it evaporated, like hard water calcium deposits. That is wrong. It is a harmless little beast once thought so benign it was intentionally injected into aquifers to trace the flow of water underground. It eats the fats in bar soap, so step one is to rinse out your shower each time you use it.

    If serratia marcescens eats bar soap, it makes sense to throw the soap out in the Back Forty and switch to body wash, which I read is made from petroleum, but I found it is not necessary. We inadvertently bought some Sam's Club Members Mark "Moisturizing Body Wash With Shea Butter" and only recently found shea butter is a fat and our problems are gone! I suspect you could still use bar soap if you rinse and spray every time.

    Despite our mistake, we have not a trace of anything in our shower after two months, not even dirt, and I haven't cleaned it once! Normally it would have dingy stuff where we stand that would have to be scoured off, plus the orange and black bacteria and mold. Ever since the first days of using the spray, the tile and grout have looked like the day they were installed. The beasts are gone and so is the dirt! I attribute this astonishing lack of grime to the vinegar, which I learned from my research is a terrific cleaner of almost anything.

    As to the magic spray, let me give credit where credit is due. I did not come up with this formula, I only modified it to improve it based on lots more research and two months of experience. It was originally posted on this forum by a member named jadnashua. I used that info and added what I found during two months of experience and extensive searching elsewhere.

    Jadnashua said you have to start with a clean shower, so scrub everything thoroughly one last time.

    He also said to apply it liberally to a dry shower, but I have found it is not necessary to wait for the shower/tub to dry before spraying, nor to apply liberally, at least not after the first few days. I spray lightly every day immediately after showering and rinsing. I rinse only where tiles stay wet a long time, from 18" down incl the tile floor with a hand held sprayer, then spray same with the magic spray and walk away. Hydrogen peroxide used to be used to bleach hair blonde, so we substituted a white rug outside the shower door and we keep our towels away from it.

    The original poster did not say how often we should spray, but I have been doing it every day and it takes less time than drying the shower. Rinse, spray, walk away.

    Hydrogen peroxide is water with an extra oxygen molecule, making its formula H2O2. It hates sunlight, air, physical contact with other substances and even sitting unopened on a shelf, all of which make it lose its extra oxygen molecule. That turns it into H2O, plain water; useless for our purposes. For that reason, I make up the solution without hydrogen peroxide, adding it only when I fill my handheld quart sprayer. A sprayer full lasts at least a couple weeks. H2O2 will be plain water a month after opening it, and after about six months unopened on the shelf.

    BUY THE FOLLOWING:

    1. One HALF gallon of the cheapest vinegar you can find.

    2. Boric acid. You will need one cup for the first batch. Boric acid is a powder and for many years was dusted around the house to kill roaches, but it is harmless to humans. Boric acid is one of the safest chemicals there are for humans, so no precautions are necessary. You will find boric acid ($3 in 7/2017) in Walmart sold as Enoz Roach Away. It comes in a bright yellow, 16 oz. by weight, plastic bottle that holds two cups. My Walmart stocks it in two locations: Insecticides, where it was sold out, and Food, which had some.

    3: A quart or two (but no more because it goes bad) of hydrogen peroxide. In 7/2017 it was in the Walmart pharmacy First Aid section for 88 cents a quart. It is sold in dark plastic bottles to protect it from light, it must be used within a month after opening and it must be recapped tightly.

    4: An excellent 88-cent Walmart clear plastic empty 32 oz spray bottle with volume marks in ounces and mL. Mark it SHAKE WELL.

    5. Find a spare gallon jug, rinse it and label it shake well.

    DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING

    In the gallon jug, add one half gallon of vinegar and funnel in one cup of boric acid. Shake well. Not all the boric acid will dissolve. You now have half of your magic mixture. You will make the complete mixture in the spray bottle as required. To fill your sprayer, shake your gallon jug and fill the sprayer half full with the vinegar boric acid mixture. Without touching the mouth of the hydrogen peroxide bottle to the sprayer, fill the rest of the sprayer with H2O2. Invert gently to mix. The spray will leave a barely visible white coating of boric acid after it dries.

    The hydrogen peroxide is an odor free bleach substitute. It and the vinegar strip the cell walls from the S. marcescens and the boric acid keeps it from coming back.
     
  14. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    I'm glad that that concoction worked for you, but when I first posted it, I had discovered it over at www.johnbridge.com and hoped it would help others, so I added it here. I did not design it, and I do not remember who posted it there.
     
  15. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You are offering to take credit for jsbsmarcescens's post while purporting to offer credit elsewhere?
     
  16. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    If you read it, he mentions my reference, but while I've posted that recipe more than once over the years, here is a link to it about 3 years ago...why are you so insistent on trying to discredit someone who is trying to help?

    https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ild-up-on-showertile-grout.56678/#post-527467
     
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