Temporary system disconnect (clack)

[hihochopsuey]

Hello everyone,

I am trying to temporarily disconnect our water softener system so we can have our garage epoxy flooring done. It is a clack system that was installed by a local water filtration company. From what I can see is the flow to do this properly:

1. Shut off main water, run faucet in house
2. Turn the 2 bypass red valves to off position
3. Manual regeneration for water pressure relief
4. Disconnect 2 valves at main bypass
4. Unplug from electrical
5. Remove connector to salt tank
​

At the end of these steps, I should be able move the softener and the salt water tank to a different area so we can complete the epoxy flooring project.

What am I missing? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Unplug the electrical cord.
Just have turn the bypass valves to bypass.
Disconnect the bypass unions at the softener, not the at the pipes. Be careful with the seals. Water may squirt out but won’t be much.
Remove the unit. Note it will be fairly heavy filled with water. Use a hand truck if you have one. After moving it tie it to something so it doesn’t tip over.
Remove the salt tank.
Check out the bypass valve in the service and maintenance manual.

http://www.clackvalves.net/pdf/documents/WS1 & WS1.25 service manual.pdf

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

You don't need to do step #1.

Once the 2 Red bypass valve handles are pointing at each other, that will be the pathway for water flow which will bypass flow to the softener. The house faucets will continue to receive water flow even as the bypass assembly can be removed from the softener.

Step #3 should be to advance the controller to 'Backwash' which will relieve water pressure from within the softener tank. Unplug electrical while in Backwash mode so the unit will remain in that mode until after it is reconnected and water flow is restored. Backwash will eliminate any air that enters while disconnected.

To move the softener, you will probably tip it slightly on its side to roll it. Some water will likely spill-out so you may want to be ready with towels in case water spillage on the floor will delay the application of the epoxy surface.

 

[hihochopsuey]

Unplug the electrical cord.
Just have turn the bypass valves to bypass.
Disconnect the bypass unions at the softener, not the at the pipes. Be careful with the seals. Water may squirt out but won’t be much.
Remove the unit. Note it will be fairly heavy filled with water. Use a hand truck if you have one. After moving it tie it to something so it doesn’t tip over.
Remove the salt tank.
Check out the bypass valve in the service and maintenance manual.

http://www.clackvalves.net/pdf/documents/WS1 & WS1.25 service manual.pdf

Thank you! This is helpful, i've been able to study the manual a bit

 

[hihochopsuey]

You don't need to do step #1.

Once the 2 Red bypass valve handles are pointing at each other, that will be the pathway for water flow which will bypass flow to the softener. The house faucets will continue to receive water flow even as the bypass assembly can be removed from the softener.

Step #3 should be to advance the controller to 'Backwash' which will relieve water pressure from within the softener tank. Unplug electrical while in Backwash mode so the unit will remain in that mode until after it is reconnected and water flow is restored. Backwash will eliminate any air that enters while disconnected.

To move the softener, you will probably tip it slightly on its side to roll it. Some water will likely spill-out so you may want to be ready with towels in case water spillage on the floor will delay the application of the epoxy surface.

Thank you for your tips, it makes sense to be in "backwash" mode for pressure relief. Another member mentioned that the regeneration cycle plays the same role as you mentioned.