CircuitsToPlowshares
New Member
Howdy all. I was looking for some advice with possibly reconfiguring my booster pump supply configuration. I have a well and storage tank configuration setup on some property built 3 years ago that is working well enough now, but I am anticipating and preparing for setting up the supply with us building our house and wanted some advice. I had been considering some changes to the setup, and *luck* would have it that some of the piping burst in the freeze last week (Yay). So now I have a chance to review the setup and debate the changes.
--Just the facts--
Attached is my poor representation of the current setup. Basically from my 2500 gallon holding tank I have 1-1/2" supply line going to a goulds Irri-gator GT-15 high volume 1-1/2 HP pump. This leads out to a union then a brass ball valve and check valve done in 120 schedule pipe threaded into the fittings. Then it transitions into glue in fittings and some schedule 40 pvc which is all burst and will need replacing. Along that line is the pressure switch, and a spigot, as well as a tee going to the 86 gallon pressure tank. I don't know if there is any damage to the pressure tank, but the pipe coming out of it is not split, only the lower line. Coming back up is the second check valve and then a supply line cutoff that splits both to the existing well house plumbing (laundry and watering) and then off to a 1-1/4" PVC line that then goes out to 1" pex supply line that was being used for temporary living spaces. This pex line will be re-done and re-run when the final house is put in.
The pump I found out was selected by our well company is a high volume but low pressure pump, it was only capable of putting out ~54psi. When the installer was setting the pressure switch he was unaware of this as well, so when we noticed it couldn't make the 60psi set point he called back to the guys in the office who made the spec on the system and they told him it was only rated to 55psi. Basically we compromised on the set points so on at 40/52. According to the spec sheet at that discharge pressure it should be close to 40gpm but I have never measured it open bore.
--Questions--
1. I am debating putting a CSV after the check valve. But I am unsure what would be best given the low set points and knowing what GPM to actually target. Any advice here?
2. I am debating if I choose a CSV to replace most of the 1-1/2" pipe between the two check valves with 1-1/4". Are there any issues with this anyone can see that I am not thinking of with having the 1-1/4" going back up to 1-1/2" before the supply? I also have thought about just eating the $60 and changing to 1-1/4" check valves as well so anything after the pump is all 1-1/4.
3. Is it worth doing threaded schedule 120 again when I re-make this? Its easy enough to do, but I don't have any dies for 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 but that is trivial to get.
4. When I run the supply to the house I will probably add a booster pump to get enough pressure to have filters and softeners and also better pressure for the house, the second pump will also probably have a CSV. For a 300' run any suggestions for sizing given the pump. And will there be any issues having the two pumps on the system?
-- After Thoughts ---
Had I have known at the time when the well installers were asking me questions about the property and said "Is this residential or agricultural?" and I said "Both" that they were going to spec out the irrigation pump I would have gone into much more detail and asked them more questions. They didn't list model numbers on our contract or I could have caught it when I reviewed the setup proposal. Mostly because my agricultural uses are not crops and I don't need high volume pump. I am sure this pump is not ideal for my future needs and the pump will probably die on me. If it does I will change it out to a more suitable booster pump when that happens, but I am not fully on board with just chucking it yet.
Thanks for any help.
--Just the facts--
Attached is my poor representation of the current setup. Basically from my 2500 gallon holding tank I have 1-1/2" supply line going to a goulds Irri-gator GT-15 high volume 1-1/2 HP pump. This leads out to a union then a brass ball valve and check valve done in 120 schedule pipe threaded into the fittings. Then it transitions into glue in fittings and some schedule 40 pvc which is all burst and will need replacing. Along that line is the pressure switch, and a spigot, as well as a tee going to the 86 gallon pressure tank. I don't know if there is any damage to the pressure tank, but the pipe coming out of it is not split, only the lower line. Coming back up is the second check valve and then a supply line cutoff that splits both to the existing well house plumbing (laundry and watering) and then off to a 1-1/4" PVC line that then goes out to 1" pex supply line that was being used for temporary living spaces. This pex line will be re-done and re-run when the final house is put in.
The pump I found out was selected by our well company is a high volume but low pressure pump, it was only capable of putting out ~54psi. When the installer was setting the pressure switch he was unaware of this as well, so when we noticed it couldn't make the 60psi set point he called back to the guys in the office who made the spec on the system and they told him it was only rated to 55psi. Basically we compromised on the set points so on at 40/52. According to the spec sheet at that discharge pressure it should be close to 40gpm but I have never measured it open bore.
--Questions--
1. I am debating putting a CSV after the check valve. But I am unsure what would be best given the low set points and knowing what GPM to actually target. Any advice here?
2. I am debating if I choose a CSV to replace most of the 1-1/2" pipe between the two check valves with 1-1/4". Are there any issues with this anyone can see that I am not thinking of with having the 1-1/4" going back up to 1-1/2" before the supply? I also have thought about just eating the $60 and changing to 1-1/4" check valves as well so anything after the pump is all 1-1/4.
3. Is it worth doing threaded schedule 120 again when I re-make this? Its easy enough to do, but I don't have any dies for 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 but that is trivial to get.
4. When I run the supply to the house I will probably add a booster pump to get enough pressure to have filters and softeners and also better pressure for the house, the second pump will also probably have a CSV. For a 300' run any suggestions for sizing given the pump. And will there be any issues having the two pumps on the system?
-- After Thoughts ---
Had I have known at the time when the well installers were asking me questions about the property and said "Is this residential or agricultural?" and I said "Both" that they were going to spec out the irrigation pump I would have gone into much more detail and asked them more questions. They didn't list model numbers on our contract or I could have caught it when I reviewed the setup proposal. Mostly because my agricultural uses are not crops and I don't need high volume pump. I am sure this pump is not ideal for my future needs and the pump will probably die on me. If it does I will change it out to a more suitable booster pump when that happens, but I am not fully on board with just chucking it yet.
Thanks for any help.