Smelly Hot Water w/ Powered Anode Rod

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davidi

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Hello, I can't quite figure this out and I am hoping someone can help point me in the right direction. It was time to replace the current anode rod so last week I purchased the 'Product Preservers Powered Anode Rod' and installed it. About a day later the hot water started smelling. I figured it may take a few days for the powered anode rod to adjust and the smell should go away. No such luck. I will say the smell is not as bad as first, but, it still stinks. It does not smell like rotten eggs, but definitely has this distinct smell. It's odd.

I called AO Smith support and they told me "In some cases, the powered anode rod will have a chemical reaction with the water and your case seems to be such a case. You should replace it with a aluminum zinc anode rod to eliminate the smells."

Unless I misunderstood something while researching powered anode rods, powered anode rods aren't supposed to have a chemical reaction like traditional anode rods. So, the comment from AO Smith support threw me off a bit.

The hot water did not have any smells with the factory installed anode rod. My water heater is only 2.5 years old.

Any help with why my hot water stinks (cold water has no smell) would be much appreciated!
 

LLigetfa

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Possibly you introduced bacteria while installing it. Making sure there are no children or old folks that my not understand the danger of scalding, turn up the heat and flush out the lines with the scalding hot water. Then turn the heat back down and exercise caution until the temperature returns to normal.
 

davidi

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Possibly you introduced bacteria while installing it. Making sure there are no children or old folks that my not understand the danger of scalding, turn up the heat and flush out the lines with the scalding hot water. Then turn the heat back down and exercise caution until the temperature returns to normal.

Hi, thank you :) Currently, I keep my water heater at 140 F. Should I turn the temperature up more and do that?
 

LLigetfa

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davidi

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Popular thinking is that is the minimum temperature to prevent bacteria growth but too hot to prevent scalding. Some folks set the temp a little higher and then use a thermostatic mixing valve to reduce the risk of scalding.
https://www.watts.com/resources/references-tools/thermostatic-mixing-valves

Hmm, interesting. Thanks! I honestly should get one of those valves installed anyway. For what you suggested, I should raise the temp a little higher or is 140 F enough and I just need to let it run?
 

davidi

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You might consider sanitizing your well and plumbing including WH. Weather is good in September. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing writeup.

Also, did you flush the sediment out of your WH? I wonder if there is some of that hanging around.

Hi, yes, I did a full flush while changing the anode. I figured I might as well since I was messing with it. I was thinking of doing another flush, but figured with the temp being at 140 F already, any bacteria would die. Your sanitizing writeup is nice! Thank you for the link. I should mention that I have city water, not well water. How can I apply that to my WH?

Do you know if the powered anode rod itself would cause the smell? If so, I want to return it before the return period is up.
 
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Sylvan

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Popular thinking is that is the minimum temperature to prevent bacteria growth but too hot to prevent scalding. Some folks set the temp a little higher and then use a thermostatic mixing valve to reduce the risk of scalding.
https://www.watts.com/resources/references-tools/thermostatic-mixing-valves


Many unknowing think a tempering valve is an anti scald device .

Unfortunately it is NOT as it is slow acting before the bellows senses the temperature and reacts

To kill bacteria we need a temperature of a min of 140 (160 -180 for sterilization in lieu of chemicals )


The condition known as stacking is a problem that many non professionals never heard about

The aqua stat is at the bottom of of the tank and the unknowing never knew HOT WATER RISES so the hottest water in the uppermost section of a tank far removed from the aqua stat

Setting the water temperature by the aqua stat does not give an accurate reading of the actual supply temperature

Most of the the court cases I am involved in are scalding where someone used a tempering valve and either installed it improperly or thought it was an anti scald device

The ASSE White pages suggest an anti scald device at point of use such as a shower and limit the temperature to 120 deg or less


 

LLigetfa

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For what you suggested, I should raise the temp a little higher or is 140 F enough and I just need to let it run?
If it is bacteria and 140 F is not working, then raise it temporarily. Maybe reach4 is onto something WRT sediment which might have particles of the old anode and the stronger current of the powered anode is causing it to react.
 

Sylvan

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American Society of Sanitary Engineering (ASSE) Standards 1016, 1017, 1069, and 1070 ASSE 1016 covers the delivery of water at the individual fixtures that are adjusted and controlled by the user, addressing very precise and immediate temperature regulation requirements. It pertains to three types of valves: pressure balancing, thermostatic, and combined pressure balancing/thermostatic. ASSE 1017 is concerned with valves used at the source of hot water for distribution to the supply system. ASSE 1017 listed devices should never be used to deliver water directly to the user. These valves should be used in combination with an ASSE 1016, ASSE 1069, and/or ASSE 1070 listed device. ASSE 1069 was developed for applications such as gang showers and sitz baths, that supply water at a preset temperature through a single pipe supply. Mixing water downstream of an ASSE 1069 listed device is not allowed. ASSE 1070 addresses control of maximum water temperature delivered to a fixture or group of fixtures, such as sinks, lavatories or bathtubs. An ASSE 1070 device may perform the final temperature regulation or water may be
 

davidi

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If it is bacteria and 140 F is not working, then raise it temporarily. Maybe reach4 is onto something WRT sediment which might have particles of the old anode and the stronger current of the powered anode is causing it to react.

Thank you, I'll try raising it to 150 F temporarily for a couple of hours and do as you suggested. I should try another flush. Hopefully, something works.
 
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davidi

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Many unknowing think a tempering valve is an anti scald device .

Unfortunately it is NOT as it is slow acting before the bellows senses the temperature and reacts

To kill bacteria we need a temperature of a min of 140 (160 -180 for sterilization in lieu of chemicals )


The condition known as stacking is a problem that many non professionals never heard about

The aqua stat is at the bottom of of the tank and the unknowing never knew HOT WATER RISES so the hottest water in the uppermost section of a tank far removed from the aqua stat

Setting the water temperature by the aqua stat does not give an accurate reading of the actual supply temperature

Most of the the court cases I am involved in are scalding where someone used a tempering valve and either installed it improperly or thought it was an anti scald device

The ASSE White pages suggest an anti scald device at point of use such as a shower and limit the temperature to 120 deg or less



Hi. Based on what you said, I should get an anti scald device and install it at the shower, sink, etc.? I was going to temporarily raise the temp to 150 F and let it run through point of use to kill any bacteria in the WH and pipes. Is that not a good idea?
 

Sylvan

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Hi. Based on what you said, I should get an anti scald device and install it at the shower, sink, etc.? I was going to temporarily raise the temp to 150 F and let it run through point of use to kill any bacteria in the WH and pipes. Is that not a good idea?

Remember that the hottest water is near the very top of the tank usually above the T&P valve

Also it takes a long time for water to cool ad hopefully you will not let anyone to forget the water is extremely hot

Approximate Time and Temperature Relationship to Severe Burns in Children and the Elderly

155 degrees F 1 second

This is why I install a shut off on the HW Supply as well as the CW inlet to isolate the tank and then raise the temperature and no one can accidently get scalded

NYC plbg code used to state the temperature on a commercial dishwasher "Shall be" 160 -180 deg F in lieu of chemicals for sterilization as 140 DEG F is questionable

A water temperature of 120°F does not kill the Legionella bacteria; a hot water temperature of 140°F is required at which Legionellae dies in 32 minutes. Hence it is recommended that the water heater be set at a safe hot water temperature of 140°F. The Legionella disinfection range is 158 – 176 °F.

Hot Water Temperature Safety | Cash Acme
https://www.cashacme.com › resources › hot-water-safety






https://www.insider.com/what-temperature-kills-germs
 

Tim Ross

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In food, the saying 40 to 140 in 4 hours is used to guide safe handling of meats etc. Food is in the danger zone between those temps beyond 4 hours. However if you maintain temp between those temps like a sousvide machine, you can see a massive log reductions of bacteria even if target temp is below 140deg. As others have pointed out stratification in tanks can mean some of the tank won’t see a log reduction in bacteria. Temporarily raising temp will help solve that. In reality most people never have a problem because of this and that is because your tank is essentially being pasteurized while in use.
 
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utelectrode

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The powered anode rod works as auxiliary anode, water heater, or water tank works as cathode, they form a protection system in the water of water heater which also served as conducting medium. When electricity pass through the electrode, the Cl- in water moves towards the anode and concentrates there, the Cl- in the cathode side will become dilution. The water heater tank as a cathode in a reductive environment, can shorten the corrosion speed of the tank and expand its life span.

Actually, powered anode rod can stop the smelly in water heater, you may check the power is connected right or wrong?
 

davidi

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In food, the saying 40 to 140 in 4 hours is used to guide safe handling of meats etc. Food is in the danger zone between those temps beyond 4 hours. However if you maintain temp between those temps like a sousvide machine, you can see a massive log reductions of bacteria even if target temp is below 140deg. As others have pointed out stratification in tanks can mean some of the tank won’t see a log reduction in bacteria. Temporarily raising temp will help solve that. In reality most people never have a problem because of this and that is because your tank is essentially being pasteurized while in use.
It makes sense. The water heater definitely gets its use in this household.
 

davidi

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The powered anode rod works as auxiliary anode, water heater, or water tank works as cathode, they form a protection system in the water of water heater which also served as conducting medium. When electricity pass through the electrode, the Cl- in water moves towards the anode and concentrates there, the Cl- in the cathode side will become dilution. The water heater tank as a cathode in a reductive environment, can shorten the corrosion speed of the tank and expand its life span.

Actually, powered anode rod can stop the smelly in water heater, you may check the power is connected right or wrong?
Hi, I did double check, it's a pretty straightforward setup. One end goes to the powered anode rod and the other end goes behind a screw at the top of the water heater. If it's connected wrong, the light on the plug would be Red. It's currently Green. When I called AO Smith, we verified it was hooked up correctly.

Still to this day, the hot water has a smell. It seems to be worse at night.
 

utelectrode

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Hi, I did double check, it's a pretty straightforward setup. One end goes to the powered anode rod and the other end goes behind a screw at the top of the water heater. If it's connected wrong, the light on the plug would be Red. It's currently Green. When I called AO Smith, we verified it was hooked up correctly.

Still to this day, the hot water has a smell. It seems to be worse at night.
In this case, it may be caused by the following 3 reasons.

1. Formed by the decay of bacterial residual waste.

2. Formed by chlorine gas from the decomposition of hypochlorous acid left in tap water and alkane hydrocarbon stupid gases.

3. Formed by heavy metals in the pipeline under the interaction of anoxic bacteria and algae.
 

davidi

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In this case, it may be caused by the following 3 reasons.

1. Formed by the decay of bacterial residual waste.

2. Formed by chlorine gas from the decomposition of hypochlorous acid left in tap water and alkane hydrocarbon stupid gases.

3. Formed by heavy metals in the pipeline under the interaction of anoxic bacteria and algae.
I see. Anything I can do about that besides switching back to an aluminum zinc anode rod? AO Smith told me, the powered anode doesn't always remove the smell but it should protect your water heater.

Also, a dumb question, how harmful is what you stated? If so, I'll definitely switch back to the Aluminum Zinc anode rod.
 
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