Smart Toilet bi-stable solenoid valve acting strange -what could be the reason and the fix?

[Mini Me]

Here is a picture of the current plumbing

And here are some referrence threads

What am I looking for if I need to replace a "Water Supply Hose type 3/4”-G"? Google does not return much for this keywords

As per some previous threads I posted around here I need to replace a "Water Supply Hose type 3/4”-G" (the one in the picture) with a shorter one Searching that exactly does not give me much. the manual for the toilet is here...

terrylove.com

3/4" Braided stainless steel connector pushing the PEX pipe away+lots of hardware attached to the PEX pipe due to weird coupling

I had to follow the manufacturer instructions shown here https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/metal-cover-for-pex-rough-in-is-there-any-way-to-avoid-screwing-the-cover-through-the-tiles.97788/post-703738 They show it installed like this My implementation is below, I can still improve...

terrylove.com

For the wall side when you say "1/2" male pipe thread x 3/8" the 1/2" male should go into the reducing valve right ?

 

[Gilligan8]

If that solenoid has gotten weak then maybe 90 PSI (though within spec) is too much right now.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

Knowing what the label states and have dealt with other types of plastic valves on icemakers 90lbs is a stretch.

 

[Mini Me]

As far as I understand all the threads for the fittings that I need (including the pressure reducing valve) will be straight not tapered, correct ?
If I attached the reducing valve directly to the sharkbite shutoff valve that is an 1/2" straight thread which means that the reducing valve with corresponding adapters will have to present straight 1/2" threads (female toward the shutoff valve/wall and male toward the brided connector that connects to the toilet)

 

[Fitter30]

As far as I understand all the threads for the fittings that I need (including the pressure reducing valve) will be straight not tapered, correct ?
If I attached the reducing valve directly to the sharkbite shutoff valve that is an 1/2" straight thread which means that the reducing valve with corresponding adapters will have to present straight 1/2" threads (female toward the shutoff valve/wall and male toward the brided connector that connects to the toilet)

Every 1/2" thread looked and read like a taper thread but I'm looking at them.

 

[Mini Me]

I think I have fixed this. I still have to test and adjust the pressure to see if I can go higher. And to see if this pressure is enough to properly flush the toilet

This is what the gauge is indicating right now

Here is the list of components used:
Pressure reducing valve
https://www.amazon.ca/Pressure-Reducing-Adjustable-Control-Regulator/dp/B07TCGX75Y/
Sioux Chief 3/8 inch Compression Elbow X 3/5 inch MIP Lead-Free

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sioux-chief-3-8-inch-compression-elbow-x-3-5-inch-mip-lead-free/1001000884

Sioux Chief 3/8 Compression Adapter X 1/2 inch MIP Lead Free

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sioux-chief-3-8-compression-adapter-x-1-2-inch-mip-lead-free/1001000668

Woseley 12"x3/4"x3/4" brided hose
The elbow adapter was installed at the exit of end of the reducing valve (the gauge end) in order to make the connection to the toilet easier
The other adapter was used to connect back to the wall
I was not able to find a 1/2" MIP x to 3/8" female compression adapter.
Using the brided 12"x3/4"x3/4" allowed me to hide everything behind the toilet

 

[Hiniou]

Hi!
Don’t want to necro old posts but for future reference:
I had the same exact proble as OP and I stumbled on this thread.
I decided to open up the solenoid before doing OP’s mod
I simply cleaned everything inside the valve for the whirlpool and now everything works as good as new.

So for anyone having this problem in the future it might bebworth a try to disassemble and clean. It took me all of 10 minutes to do this.

I guess deposits blocked the pressure pilot inside the valve.