Sediment or Pre Filter before Water Treatment

[Neil64]

Hello Everyone,

I am looking for recommendations on how to best pre filter for sediment, etc. in front of my:

Air Tank - 2cf 12x52 never used and in bypass mode (no micronizer installed)

Neutralizer - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54

Katalox Light - 2cf backwashing 5810SXT 12x52

Softener - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54

From my research, I need at least 8gpm to adequately backwash the KL system. I have a max flowrate of 11.25gpm from our well.

I currently have a 2"x10" filter housing installed in front equipment and have been experimenting with anywhere from 5 to 50 micron string filters. I get sand and silt in the filter and housing. I was able to run a 5 micron filter until the Maryland late fall came in and dropped temps. Even with a brand new 5 micron filter, we noticed a drop in water pressure so I am attributing this to the viscosity of the water. Switching to a 30 micro filter has yielded OK results since.

I'd like to set up a filtration system that will not severely restrict our 11.25 max gpm flowrate from our well but protect the water treatment system.

I have a an Atlas Hydra 90 micron (similar to Twist & Clean) waiting to be installed.

http://www.atlasfiltri.com/en/products/self-cleaning-filters/single-stage/hydra

I'd love to hear some recommendations on switching to a 4.5" x 10 or multiple 2"x10" in parallel. Maybe there are some other, better options? Space is somewhat limited unless we reengineer the input.

Is there any flow rate specs available for filters and their respective housings or do we just add the gpm of both and divide by 2?


Thanks in advance...

Neil

 

[Reach4]

I am looking for recommendations on how to best pre filter for sediment, etc. in front of my:

Air Tank - 2cf 12x52 never used and in bypass mode (no micronizer installed)

It is a bad idea to have a cartridge filter before your pressure tank. There are some that are acceptable if you have the need. Sandmaster is the one I know of. http://www.lakos.com/groundwater.htm

Where you put a cartridge filter can have different opinions. I put mine after the iron filter and before the softener. My sand is not much.

I suggest that whatever you do, add "boiler drains" in the path. These allow sampling, pressure gauge mounting, and maybe drawing drinking water. Consider filling your water bottle before the softener, but after the iron filter. It may be like free mineral water.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

I have a an Atlas Hydra 90 micron (similar to Twist & Clean) waiting to be installed.

Suggest installing the Hydra and then determine what if any further filtration is required.

A benefit to a backwashing filter is, it will regularly flush out any debris that happens to enter. If there is a substantial sediment problem as your initial posting suggests, the Hydra is a great choice to remove the most significant quantity before entering the other treatment systems downstream.

If a further concern is with the clarity of the water utilized by your family, Katalox Light is a very capable sediment filtration media in addition to its iron, manganese and sulfur reduction abilities.

 

[Neil64]

Suggest installing the Hydra and then determine what if any further filtration is required.

A benefit to a backwashing filter is, it will regularly flush out any debris that happens to enter. If there is a substantial sediment problem as your initial posting suggests, the Hydra is a great choice to remove the most significant quantity before entering the other treatment systems downstream.

If a further concern is with the clarity of the water utilized by your family, Katalox Light is a very capable sediment filtration media in addition to its iron, manganese and sulfur reduction abilities.

Suggest installing the Hydra and then determine what if any further filtration is required.

A benefit to a backwashing filter is, it will regularly flush out any debris that happens to enter. If there is a substantial sediment problem as your initial posting suggests, the Hydra is a great choice to remove the most significant quantity before entering the other treatment systems downstream.

If a further concern is with the clarity of the water utilized by your family, Katalox Light is a very capable sediment filtration media in addition to its iron, manganese and sulfur reduction abilities.

Sorry I didn't clarify but all filtration occurs and will occur after the pressure tank.

My order of water treatment after the Well X- troll 302 86 gallon pressure tank pressure tank:

2"x10" Campbell 1PS--BH Filter housing using a GE 30 micron string cartridge filter

Air Tank - 2cf 12x52 never used and in bypass mode (no micronizer installed)

Neutralizer - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54

Katalox Light - 2cf backwashing 5810SXT 12x52

Softener - 1.5cf backwashing 5810SXT 10x54

ATS UV SL-8 8 gpm UV Light

My concern is that sediment could foul the neutralizer before reaching the KL tank. Also, my research indicates that some sand and all silt will pass through the 90 micron Hydra. What micron range is recommended to block silt and other fine well stuff?

I'd also like to mention that we would love to be able to drink and cook with tap water without an RO system if possible. I am not sure if a sediment filter will help meet this objective.

Thoughts?

Thanks...

Neil

 

[ditttohead]

Simple, put in an Atlas Filtri 4.5"x10" or 20" filter system. These will give you plenty of flow rate. If you put a dual stage in you will be able to stage the filters to meet your needs.

https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/198-199

Pleated filters tend to have a better flow rate... larger surface areas tend to help but sometimes they dont hold as much dirt.... multigradient depth filtration... check out the dirt holding capacity of the filter in this link. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/208-209

 

[Neil64]

On the shelf stock of 4.5x10 filters is my area is scarce/poor. 2.5x10 filters are plentiful. Heck, even Walmart carries them. Also 4.5x10 filters are roughly 3 times the price if found locally . A water treatment company who we have used for salt recommended we upgrade to a 2.5x20 filter housing and stack two 2.5x10 filters in it. If this is feasible and I can get high flow rates out of it, this seems like a good solution. Another option recommended is to install another 2.5x10 housing in parallel to my existing one. I'd prefer to use one filter that can be sourced locally to make things easier on wifey when I am traveling.

Also, is there a quality difference between brands of filter housings? I am looking for 2.5x10 or 2.5x20 (if feasible to run with stacked 2.5x10 filters) with 1" input/output. Most 2.5x10 filter housings have 3/4" ports. I assume dropping from 1" to 3/4" filter housing(s) will increase pressure and reduce gpm but I man not sure by how much?

Thoughts?

Thanks...

Neil

 

[ditttohead]

They are 3 times the cost but many more times the capacity. The larger format will require far less maintenance, and you can simply order a case of filters when you get the housing and not have to worry about it for many years.

The Atlas Filtri is the only housing I am aware of that make 1" 2.5" x 20" filter housings. It is unlikely that you would ever notice a pressure drop so long as you change the filters as needed.