Reworking and updating my well water setup

[Zayd]

Hello, folks.

I'm coming back to the well -- pun intended -- for guidance on updating my water setup.

According to the records I received during my home purchase 2.5 years ago, I have a submersible pump at 75' delivering approximately 8gpm. I'm not aware of the pump ever being replaced, so I assume it is 30 years old like the house. That would include the softener setup, pressure tank, and switch. I'm attaching a picture of my basement setup. Water comes in black 160psi plastic pipe and converts to 1"(I believe) steel pipe. After the pressure tank, it drops to 3/4" steel, then 3/4" copper. The outside bibs tee off of that 3/4" before the filter and softener.

I've contemplated some targeted irrigation and I'm currently finishing the basement, so now is the time to future-proof my irrigation setup before I cover up the walls and ceiling. My objectives are two-fold:

1. Prep for irrigation. I am in a wide ranch, so two valve manifolds outside makes much more sense than one. I would like to run a supply line and associated LV wiring to the north (well inlet) end and the same to the south end. For now, they would penetrate the poured concrete foundation wall and I would cap them under grade outside until I get to that project.

2. Update (if needed) my tank/switch setup. Based on my reading here, adding a CSV makes sense. If I do that, my pressure tank size can be reduced, which might prompt me to replace my tank given its age. At the same time, I'd raise the whole setup so it hangs off the wall with the smaller tank, similar to Cary's CSV videos.

So now my questions:

1. What size pipe should I run to feed the two irrigation manifolds? My gut says 1" PEX but there must be a calculation that confirms that.
2. Where I pull a 1" feeder for irrigation from my main (after pressure tank), would I use a double check valve at that point before splitting to run to the two manifolds outside?
3. Is it time to preemptively replace my pressure tank and switch? If I'll be reworking things anyway, I can install new ones and get them off the floor at the same time.
4. While I am updating things, what is the consensus here on automatic water shut-off valves? If the technology is mature, it seems like the right time to incorporate one of those as well.

I'd appreciate guidance on these points. Thank you!

Zayd

 

[WorthFlorida]

Do not put too much science into irrigation setup. Basically you're dumping water on the ground, not a golf course.
First, you cannot irrigate with softened water, it will stymie the plantings. Water will need to be before all filters except may be a spin down filter for sediments if any.
Second, since using the well for irrigated and domestic water, an anti backflow will be needed to the irrigation manifold.
Third, you'll need an irrigation controller. You can build your own manifold or buy prefabs ones.
Forth, if your pump is rated a 8gpm, each irrigation zone should not use more than 4 gallons per minute. Too much water to the irrigation zone can drop pressure to the home to zero.
Fifth, if wanting spigots, connect them before the filters and the irrigation controller with anti siphon devices.
Sixth, pipe size, 1" for the main trunks and manifold. Branch off with 3/4" and finally 1/2" for sprinklers. It is recommended now to use low flow sprinklers and water for longer durations.
Seventh, if you're on a slope, you need to lay the pipe for winter drainage by adding dump valves. Air compressor will work but gravity helps.

Rainbird.com and SprinklerWarehouse.com has the best information and videos on irrigation.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Zayd]

Do not put too much science into irrigation setup. Basically you're dumping water on the ground, not a golf course.
First, you cannot irrigate with softened water, it will stymie the plantings. Water will need to be before all filters except may be a spin down filter for sediments if any.

Correct -- I have my hose bibs and future irrigation supply lines coming off the main before the filter and softener.

Second, since using the well for irrigated and domestic water, an anti backflow will be needed to the irrigation manifold.

And this is where my question was: does a double-check valve cover this requirement?

Third, you'll need an irrigation controller. You can build your own manifold or buy prefabs ones.

I plan on tackling the actual irrigation setup later; for now, I want to get my supply lines in before I button up the basement.

Forth, if your pump is rated a 8gpm, each irrigation zone should not use more than 4 gallons per minute. Too much water to the irrigation zone can drop pressure to the home to zero.

Noted -- thank you. I'll schedule the watering within these limits once I have a controller up and running.

Sixth, pipe size, 1" for the main trunks and manifold. Branch off with 3/4" and finally 1/2" for sprinklers. It is recommended now to use low flow sprinklers and water for longer durations.

Perfect -- that's what I'll do. I'll tee off my main before the filter/softener and run 1" PEX to both ends of the house.

 

[WorthFlorida]

If you have one like this, it's fine. To get the best performance, do install a CSV, Valveman. Do not use PEX for irrigation. Fittings for sprinklers systems do not match PEX dimensions. Sharkbite does make a PEX to PVC coupler. Use poly pipe or PVC for the irrigation side. If there is a supplier nearby, ask them what it used in your area. Florida it's about 99% PVC. Never freezes here.

https://www.grainger.com/product/40D847?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjfDd_-K2gAMVIYlaBR3fqg9pEAQYAiABEgK3__D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Zayd]

Thank you -- this is the one I'm looking at based on 1" input size and the fact that it's USA-made:

https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/conbraco-4a-100-dca-backflow-preventer-1-in-fpt-cdc4a-105-a2f

My plan is to only run the PEX inside the basement, through the foundation wall, and to the valve manifold. From there, I'll use the appropriate material to make the irrigation runs.

My plan is to pull 1" PEX off the main (before the filter/softener), pass that through the DCA above, then tee it off to the two runs. Next is to think ahead to winterization. How does that happen with a DCA that is below grade? Does it drain or do I include provisions to attach compressed air to the line after the DCA? I hope that's clear.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Add a dump valve after the DCA and before going outside. You can add air compressor fittings to blow out the sprinklers, especially at the valves that can hold water.

 

[Zayd]

Alright, based on feedback and research here, this is my plan:

This would all be located in the basement. The orange ovals are full-port ball valves. Does this arrangement look good/make sense? My only open question is if I should include a drain elbow at #1 to drain what doesn't get blown out when winterizing.

 

[Valveman]

The tank is teed off to a right angle from the mainline. The size of the tank inlet in of no importance. A 14 gallon tank holds about 3 gallons of water. At 50/70 pressure I would use at least a 10 gallon size tank, so the 14 gallon won't hurt anything. But if you use the 10 gallon tank like comes in the PK1A kit it has 3/4 thread that screws into the CSV1A and saves needing a manifold. Also would not put a ball valve anywhere prior to the pressure switch/tank.

 

[Zayd]

Thanks for the feedback, Cary. I'll move that ball valve downstream of the pressure switch.

 

[Valveman]

With the 14 gallon tank and a regular tank cross it would look like this.

 

[Valveman]

With the 10 gallon tank on the CSV1A it would look like this.