Replace Cast Iron Drain Fitting?

Users who are viewing this thread

cavalierchamp

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Albuquerque
Does this cast iron drain fitting look rusted through to ya'll? The oxidation seems to be in a dripping shape, which suggests to me there's a leak and I should fix while I have the wall open during bathroom remodel.

If so, what's the proper repair? Cut out the iron fitting and replace with PVC/ABS fitting, reattaching to iron pipe with steel reinforced no-hub fittings? And use steel hangers to make sure the weight of the remaining iron vent pipe is supported from wood framing above?

Appreciate any pro tips you may have!

Pic #1
Pic #2
Pic #3
 

Breplum

Licensed plumbing contractor
Messages
1,969
Reaction score
799
Points
113
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Cutting out and replacing for sure. Add a 2" cleanout either above or below...double check your new sink depth so you don't have the stub out too high. Max 16" and sometimes lower for the drain stub with deep sinks. We typically use "riser clamps" at ceiling to relieve weight.
Standard no-hub couplings or the "listed" transition couplings for cast iron to plastic. But in the 2" dimension there is really no difference. Avoid the unshielded Fernco that is the lower coupling in the pics.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,903
Reaction score
4,438
Points
113
Location
IL
Does not look like rust in the photos; it looks yellow. Do the deposits look yellow when viewed by eye?

There may be leakage at the top of the sanitary tee. You may be able to fix that with "caulking", which means to pound down on the lead with an appropriate tool to tighten that up. Some search terms for you:
"caulking iron" lead hammer "cast iron" hub
 

cavalierchamp

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Albuquerque
Does not look like rust in the photos; it looks yellow. Do the deposits look yellow when viewed by eye?

There may be leakage at the top of the sanitary tee. You may be able to fix that with "caulking", which means to pound down on the lead with an appropriate tool to tighten that up. Some search terms for you:
"caulking iron" lead hammer "cast iron" hub
Thanks for the suggestion! The deposits do have an orange/yellow tone but we have high mineral content in the water here so I think it could be mineral deposits from a seeping leak.

There’s no leakage from the TOP of the sanitary tee (where the galvanized pipe inserts). The orange-yellow color appears in the middle of the fitting and seems to drip down on top of the sanitary tee below.


The top layer of the pipe seems to be flaking off. See if this pic helps show better.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9964.jpeg
    IMG_9964.jpeg
    126.4 KB · Views: 68

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,962
Reaction score
2,236
Points
113
Location
92346
5 minutes to whack that with sawsall and replace the tee . thats how id so it I dont care if it leaks or not It be gone!
 

cavalierchamp

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Albuquerque
Can anyone weigh in on this brand of Fernco no-hub couplings? The neoprene seems a bit thin but then again I suppose the metal shielding provides the structural support.
Just wanna make sure I don't use an inferior product that's going to fail a couple years from now!
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,903
Reaction score
4,438
Points
113
Location
IL
Good brand. They also make a higher end longer series with four bands, but for use in your wall, you don't need that.

I think you plan to keep much of the vent pipe, so you should support that before cutting.
 

cavalierchamp

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Albuquerque
Good brand. They also make a higher end longer series with four bands, but for use in your wall, you don't need that.

I think you plan to keep much of the vent pipe, so you should support that before cutting.
The section of pipe I need to cut turns out to be steel, and it actually jogs over to the main stack about 3 feet above where I need to cut it... Given that there's a 90 degree fitting in the wall a few feet above, do you think I still need to support the weight of the pipe? (Right now as you can see there's 2 couplers -- with 2"ABS butted up inside supporting the weight of the cast iron tee and they seem to be holding up alright.)

Very much appreciate your guidance!
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,903
Reaction score
4,438
Points
113
Location
IL
I am not sure. If you can grab the pipe with a riser clamp, and support the riser clamp with carpentry, you could be sure, even if it was unnecessary. I am not a plumber.
 

cavalierchamp

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Albuquerque
Good brand. They also make a higher end longer series with four bands, but for use in your wall, you don't need that.

I think you plan to keep much of the vent pipe, so you should support that before cutting.
EDIT >> nevermind I thought my last reply didn't actually post.... Thanks for the suggestion, belt and suspenders never hurts!
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,962
Reaction score
2,236
Points
113
Location
92346
I took another look it dosent even look like a santee but possibly a clean out tee . Some of those old school fittings are really old school I concider them junk as far as no direction or sweep the old fittings they used in bathroom plumbing smaller joist bays etc just arent as good as modern ways. Definately put either a tapped santee or a plastic one hub might protude from wall if its a pedestal sink or something exposed or fancy you might need to pay attention to the hub proud of finish wall
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks