Removing Anode rod temporarily-on a well

[Dave SC]

New here (and to a lot of DIY Home maintenance).
Question: I am planning on removing the Anode rod,only for a few weeks until I can replace it. I am on a well, not sure what "levels" of the mineral content,etc. But I did drain it recently,was a lot of silt that flowed out. I have seen where I can a) turn the temp up to 140F to kill bacteria, and b) pour bleach into the well (how much(?),and directly into the well?).
There is a strong odor of Sulfur in the hot water, trying to get that solved.
I do know about changing (or "cleaning"?) the Anode rod. Just don't know about simply removing it for a short time.
Are these things "correct"(?), and is there any recommendations from well-pump owners who know about standard maintenance that could coach me on this?
I appreciate your time,and thank you very much.

 

[Reach4]

Question: I am planning on removing the Anode rod,only for a few weeks until I can replace it.

Remove it why? To see if that stops the H2S (sulfur) smell?

b) pour bleach into the well (how much(?),and directly into the well?).

You can pour bleach into your well? You might be able to adapt my well and plumbing sanitizing writeup for your well. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

I have a Ceranode brand powered anode. It has a long electrode. It protects like magnesium without contributing to H2S production.

 

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[Dave SC]

Remove it why? To see if that stops the H2S (sulfur) smell?

Hi,yes,it is for the smell...and I know from draining the tank already that it has stopped working-there was a lot of silt that came out of the drain hose.

You can pour bleach into your well? You might be able to adapt my well and plumbing sanitizing writeup for your well. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

I have been told that,and also saw on another post that that can be done (providing I can actually directly access it).

I have a Ceranode brand powered anode. It has a long electrode. It protects like magnesium without contributing to H2S production.

I will look into that-as of now,I kind of have to "do it on the cheap",unfortunately.

 

[Reach4]

I have a friend whose plumber removes the anode routinely and puts in a plug to stop the H2S generation.

As I understand it, the H2S generation is "SRB" reducing sulfate that is in the water. That bacteria either needs or is helped by magnesium ions, but maybe will settle for others like zinc. So if you can interrupt things, that can help. There are various things I don't know. If sanitizing could be rid of the SRB, then the effect would not happen. But what if your sanitizing only knocks the levels way down? How quickly does the SRB recover and get to work at high volume again? I don't know.

Raising the temp on the WH will make it less comfortable for the bacteria, but there will always be pipes at a temperature where the SRB can hang out.

My sanitizing procedure tries to effectively wipe out all SRB within reach. It tries to get into the aquifer a bit. Now are SRB riding in with the water from the aquifer, or were they only there because the well driller and pump installer had not sterilized their stuff? I don't know.

Other reading if you have not found these already:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html That is where I ordered my powered anode from. Distribution model has changed a tad since.