Rebuilding Fleck 2500 valve

[Max Cech]

Hey folks. Great forum here. I really appreciate having access to as much info as is here, even just lurking.

I have an old 2500 valve (and an irrelevant but as far as I can tell bullet proof 3200 timer) that began to leak externally from the piston / plunger seal. I am preparing to rebuild, and I had a few questions for you all.

Is there an advantage either way to purchasing 60090 & 60121 (metal piston & rubber seals separately) VS 61670 (plastic piston & silicone seal kit)? They are about the same price. My gut tells me I'd rather have a metal piston, but it also tells me I'd rather have silicone seals. My water has very high iron in it, and I feel like this contributes to rusty grit that is heck on seals.

Also, I intend on replacing the brine valve piston assembly (60029) & reusing my BFLC - Does this sound reasonable?

While I'm thinking about this thing, are there any other parts I should replace in this unit? I'd like it refurbed & ready for another 20 years of service.

Thank you for your time folks

Max

 

[ditttohead]

Silicone seals are ideal for chemical problems, the more common standard black seals are preferred where abrasion is a problem. Buy the new BLFC. Also upgrade to the plastic brine valve... and... consider dropping a modern valve on that system. The brass bodies have a finite life expectancy and the addition of a meter will greatly increase the systems efficiency.

 

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[Max Cech]

Thanks Ditto Head!

Do you have any additional input on how to tell how worn out the brass valve is? I'm frankly surprised that they do wear out, and had viewed the brass construction as a plus in refurbishing my existing valve. I was even planning on throwing some resin at it in a year or two also.

I would like to be able to get an idea of how to tell how close I am. I'd much rather do the $150 in rebuild parts now, then a new $6-800 softener. Even if it's only a few years really.

thanks for your time & attention!

Max

 

[ditttohead]

When you tear the valve apart look for any pitting of the brass. In my 30 years of doing this I have thrown away many worn and pitted brass valves. It is not that brass valves are inherently bad, just that they are more prone to damage over time due to aggressive water. Most new valves being developed are either plastic or stainless steel. All of Flecks and Clacks meters are now stainless, and the new Fleck commercial 1.5" valve is being made in stainless steel.

 

[Max Cech]

Thank you. That is helpful. After reading your last message I went and did some research, and what I found as well was that they are pretty wear resistant, unless your water PH is really our of whack. I do not visually see any pitting, or wear in the bore, so I think I'm going to throw the rebuild parts at it, and inspect the bore closely, then do a PH test on my water. If the PH is in a normal range, and the bore looks excellent upon rebuild, I will consider throwing the resin at it later this year, after it proves itself functional for a while.

I know I probably sound like a cheap SOB, and I guess I am,

Thanks for all your input. I really appreciate it!

 

[ditttohead]

The only drawback is the lack of metering control. Meters have now become standard for most applications as our desire to protect our water supplies becomes an issue. Wasted salt does enter the water supply and is difficult to remove. Many water sources are reused by the next person downstream and the higher tds loads can become a problem. Of course there are many other factors involved but keeping your old unit running for decades is quite easy and is also better than simply dumping it into a landfill.