QuickDrain linear drain questions

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by LiamM, May 23, 2012.

  1. LiamM

    LiamM New Member

    Dec 13, 2006
    I have an upcoming project that will use QuickDrain linear drains, the ones that have an integrated 6"-wide flange of Noble TS.

    The shower has both a window and a niche. I had planned on using Hydroban on the shower walls and floor, so I wouldn't have to deal with corner buildup from Kerdi, Noble TS, or other sheet membranes.

    The QuickDrain install video shows the TS drain flange stapled to blocking in the stud cavity, then the wall CBU installed in front. Their cutaway drawings don't show any waterproofing on the walls, just studs -> CBU -> thinset -> tile.

    So my questions...

    1. Instead of tacking the TS flange to stud blocking, I'd like to install the CBU first (holding it about 1/8" off the subfloor), then thinset the TS flange to the front, then Hydroban the walls, overlapping it by a couple inches onto the TS. Does this approach seem correct?

    2. I'd like to use the Quick Slope pre-formed panel for the shower floor (http://www.quickdrainusa.com/shower-pans.php), skim with thinset, and then Hydroban over that. Any thoughts on whether it's a bad idea using a liquid membrane instead of a sheet membrane in this case, especially with the Quick Slope being a honeycomb pattern? I'm thinking point loads could be a problem, but no concrete reason for thinking a liquid would be worse than a sheet. I could always do a mudbed with a feather finish to the drain, but then Laticrete calls for a 3-day cure time before applying Hydroban.

    3. Before I even do any floor prep, I'd like to install the wall CBU, Hydroban everything except the bottom 6 inches or so, then tile the walls (except the bottom row or two). This way, I'm avoiding working on a prepped shower pan. After the walls are done, then I'd do the pan work and tie it into the walls. Any problems with having "cold joints" so to speak in the Hydroban application?

  2. LiamM

    LiamM New Member

    Dec 13, 2006
    Thanks John.

    This will be a curbless shower. One of my reasons for using Hydroban on the pan is that I should have enough left over after waterproofing the walls. The TS membrane (plus the Noble Sealant, corner pieces, etc) would be an additional cost. As you mentioned, the downside is the 3 day cure time for the pan skim coat, but I'll have other parts of the project to work on. Haven't fully committed to a Hydroban pan though, so the quick turnaround time for the membrane may win out in the end.

    I had planned on using rapid set for the QuickSlope, but the 253R. The regular 254 is some tenacious stuff. I have a tough enough time working with it, never mind in a rapid set formula.

    Subfloor is 3/4" Advantec. I'll be adding a 1/2" layer of ACX plywood. And even though Laticrete no longer recommends it, I'm going to use the fabric at changes of plane. Help give me some peace of mind.

    If I do use Hydroban everywhere, any problems with possible cold joints if I waterproof and tile the walls first, then waterproof and tie in the pan later?

    Thanks again for the help.
  3. Sponsor

    Sponsor Paid Advertisement

Similar Threads: QuickDrain linear
Forum Title Date
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Should I use a standard linear drain with the Kerdi-Shower-LS Shower Tray? Jun 6, 2017
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog 36x48 shower base for barrier free, back linear drain (48" side)? Jul 18, 2016
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Shower Tray for Curbless Shower & Linear Drain May 12, 2016
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Linear drain - weep holes Jun 15, 2015
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Shower Room linear drain recommendation needed. Jan 13, 2015

Share This Page