Pump will not cut out after pressure switch replaced

[Gary Way]

This is a conundrum for me. First, the configuration: I have a Gould J5S (1/2 hp) that draws water from a poly tank (300 gal) and pressurizes the house water system via a welltrol bladder tank ( large- 5 or 6 ft tall). The water is gravity fed to the poly tank from a spring via an underground reservoir at a higher elevation. The pump draws water with little or no head pressure.

So here's the problem. I was noticing a delayed cut out to 50 psi on occasion, although it always cuts out eventually. I tapped on the switch when it was at 50 psi and it immediately shut off. To confirm that it was not a coincidence I tried it a few times and it always shut down, so I assumed I had a sticky switch contact, and set out to get a replacement. The factory switch is a nice Hubbell ( made in USA) 30-50 psi, approx 22 years old. After a little looking around in person and on the web, I accepted that because of NAFTA, etc, all switches come from Mexico or China. I bought a Home Depot model with the low pressure cut out feature.

I checked the empty tank pressure and it was right on at 28psi. After installing the switch I purged the lines to the switch and turned it on as directed by holding the lever in the start position. I watched the pressure for a quite a long time and the pressure never got above 45 psi. Please note that before I replaced the switch the pump got up to 50 psi just fine.

I thought that sediment might have clogged the pump nozzle, so I drained the tank and cleaned the pump nozzle with a regulation coat hanger. It didn't seem too bad. A little iron mud was evident, but no obvious blockage. I think the pump may have been on its way to failure and the tapping of the switch may have been a real problem, but not the only problem. So I adjusted the tank to 20 psi, and set the switch to 22psi on and 42 psi off. It works fine, but I lost 8psi from prior to replacing the switch. My question is, should I assume the pump is obsolete and buy a new assembly or is there any tinkering (and parts replacement) I can do to get my water pressure back to 50 psi? Cost is not an issue, but reliability is, so I am inclined to replace the whole thing. It just bothers me that it comes to this after the relatively mundane switch replacement.

 

[ThirdGenPump]

The J series use a cast iron housing, they rust the switch line shut.

You need to clear where the switch line connects to the pump. Disconnect the switch line there then poke a small screw driver in that hole. I usually do this with pressure in the housing so the rust doesnt fall in and get stuck in the jet.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Way]

The J series use a cast iron housing, they rust the switch line shut.

You need to clear where the switch line connects to the pump. Disconnect the switch line there then poke a small screw driver in that hole. I usually do this with pressure in the housing so the rust doesnt fall in and get stuck in the jet.

 

[Gary Way]

I don't think that is the problem. I purged the water line to the switch. It was fine.

 

[ThirdGenPump]

If there is a big enough object in the housing it will plug the jet when it's running. If you just clean it though the jet access you essentially just push it back into the housing and it clogs again when it runs.

Next step is to pull off the front housing and check for debris. This also allows you to look at the impeller for damage or warping. At 22 years old you probably want to do this when you have access to a new pump in case it goes south.

None of the J5S's I've pulled apart are that old. It's only in the last half dozen years I started using the S's. I used to use the J5 convertibles with the shallow well jet. They are better because you don't have to pull apart the housings to get to the jet. Prices what they are people want the cheaper version.

 

[Gary Way]

Terry, Thank you so much for your insight and comments. One more thing, I reviewed the specs on J series shallow well pumps and I noticed that the 1.5 hp J15S can push 25 gpm at 50 psi, while the J5S can only push 5 gpm at 50 psi. Since I have the largest well troll tank they make, it takes a long time for the pump to get up to 50 psi. So my question is will the larger pump motor be more efficient since while it is 3 times more electricity, it pumps up to pressure 5 times faster? Also, I noticed that the J5S fills the tank and charges faster going from 22 to 42 psi, vs the 30 to 50. The tank is rated for 30 to 60 psi service. Will operating the tank at lower pressure cause the bladder to expand too much or put and stress on it? This is all temporary because I've decided to buy a new pump... just deciding on whether to replace with the same or go bigger. My inclination is to mate the big holding tank with a larger flow rate pump.

 

[Reach4]

The tank is rated for 30 to 60 psi service. Will operating the tank at lower pressure cause the bladder to expand too much or put and stress on it?

The Well-X-Trol pressure tanks are rated for a wide range of pressures. To set up for a different pressure, you adjust the air precharge. This is usually set to 2 psi below the cut-on pressure with a submersible pump, and 3 or 4 psi for a jet pump. So if you went to 20-40 PSI with your jet pump, you would set the air precharge to 16 or 17 with your jet pump. If you get a quick pause in the water pressure as the pump cuts on when the precharge is 17, you would drop the precharge to 16. Air precharge is set with water pressure = zero.

 

[ThirdGenPump]

There is better watts to water moved effeciency with larger pumps. However it's possible you'd never save more than the cost difference in the life of the pump if this is solely for household use.

 

[Gary Way]

The Well-X-Trol pressure tanks are rated for a wide range of pressures. To set up for a different pressure, you adjust the air precharge. This is usually set to 2 psi below the cut-on pressure with a submersible pump, and 3 or 4 psi for a jet pump. So if you went to 20-40 PSI with your jet pump, you would set the air precharge to 16 or 17 with your jet pump. If you get a quick pause in the water pressure as the pump cuts on when the precharge is 17, you would drop the precharge to 16. Air precharge is set with water pressure = zero.

Thanks. I have the pressure running 22 to 42 psi and the tank is 19 psi empty.

 

[Valveman]

The size of the pump is determined by how much water you need. If a 5 GPM pump supplies all you need, there is no advantage to a larger pump. But if you need more water, a larger pump is required.