Pump Help!

[mstgkillr]

I have a an almost 5 year old house with the following... I have a 1 hp Myers Rustler submersible pump 120 ft. down in my well that supplies water to my sulphur aerator tank. I have a 1/2 hp Myers Rustler submersible pump in the sulphur aerator that supplies water to the house. Long story short, I found both submersible pumps stuck running because both pressure switches failed due to excessive rusting. The submersible pump in the well came apart at the coupling and stopped providing water to the aerator. The water level then dropped in the aerator until the 1/2 hp pump ran dry. I replaced both pressure switches, pulled and replaced the coupling for the deep well pump, and got everything running again. The 1 hp pump seems ok and cycles like it it supposed to, but the 1/2 hp pump in the aerator sounds bad. It's only pumping up to a max of 32 psi, so I am assuming this pump partially burnt up. Also, even when everything is running like it was supposed to, I had a very noticeable pressure drop when using both showers. Here are my questions.

1. What probably burnt up in the 1/2 hp aerator pump, the motor or the pump end?
2. Is it serviceable?
3. Should I just replace the entire pump?
4. If I replace the pump, are there better pumps out there?
5. Should I install an off float just incase the low pressure swtich failed again?
6. If I should replace the pump, could I upgrade to a 3/4 hp pump to help with the pressure drop or should I upgrade to larger pressure tanks?
7. What are the benifits of a submersible pump in the aerator vs. an external jet pump on the ground?
8. How often should I check/replace the pressure switches?
9. Are there better pressure switches, that last longer?
10. Should I install a low pressure cut off switch on the deep well pump, just like the aerator pump has?
11. Should I spray the new pressure switches with an anticorrosive to prevent it rusting again?

 

[Ballvalve]

I'll just attack the switches. In damp areas the wire connections should have no corrode electricians paste on all connections and wire nuts

Many no corrode aerosols are made, and I always have a can with me. Spray the whole switch and be sure its electric rated.

Most of the answers are yes, but thats a lot of money and work.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CRC-Corrosion-Inhibitor-3EEC2?Pid=search

CRC makes others. Dont get it in the electric contacts.