Pull Down Spout Hose Guide Suggestions (for Kitchen Faucet)

[Geobrick]

Does anyone have a good solution for guiding a pull down faucet hose under a sink so it doesn't hit the valves or get hung up by the drain?

I found that Moen offers a hose guide that's essentially a plastic bag that forms a chute to channel the hose but it seems the bottom of the chute could move after the hose is pulled up then released (unless it's a very thick plastic). Here's Moen's Video.

Any other clever solutions? Maybe a spring or bungee cord fixed to a strategic point on the cabinet floor and looped around the hose to help guide it to a clear area? Let me know if any of you came up with something good or have any suggestions (that don't involve moving the stop valves and drain away from the hose).

 

[OLD TIMER]

You might look for a shorter hose.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

First try moving the weight further up the hose toward the nozzle. I've seen pictures elsewhere and on new homes and work, plumbers are getting wise to install the drain & lines off from the center to eliminate this issue. Shorter hoses are not made. If it is still an issue you can lower the trap to the clean out location and cap of the upper drain as the clean out. I may work if you can get the upper pipe close enough to the cabinet wall and then the cold water line or valve would be a smaller issue. For the cold water line place foam pipe insulation around it so the faucet hose would be forced to the left and nothing to get snagged on.

 

[Geobrick]

You might look for a shorter hose.

That would definitely work but would reduce the sprayer reach. It could be a good compromise.

 

[Geobrick]

First try moving the weight further up the hose toward the nozzle. I've seen pictures elsewhere and on new homes and work, plumbers are getting wise to install the drain & lines off from the center to eliminate this issue. Shorter hoses are not made. If it is still an issue you can lower the trap to the clean out location and cap of the upper drain as the clean out. I may work if you can get the upper pipe close enough to the cabinet wall and then the cold water line or valve would be a smaller issue. For the cold water line place foam pipe insulation around it so the faucet hose would be forced to the left and nothing to get snagged on.

Using the cleanout for the drain probably would have worked if I didn't just put a cleanout fitting on it earlier today. I think I used the top one for the drain to allow more storage space on the floor. The weight on this model isn't fixed to the hose. The hose is free to move through it.

I'll try some technique (maybe with foam pipe insulation) to divert it as needed. Did you see the Moen Hose Guide I linked to in my original post? Maybe I can arrange a 2' piece of 6" ABS pipe under the sink in a way to guide the weight and hose to a clear area. That would essentially work like a firmer version of the Moen hose corral.

 

[WorthFlorida]

You’ll find that needing to pull the spray head all the way out will be rare. If the cold side flex hose wasn’t cut to fit perfectly, you could direct the cold water valve clockwise to point to the right just like the hot water line is pointing away. It is possible to splice in a section of 3/8 tubing on the cold feed.

 

[Geobrick]

If the cold side flex hose wasn’t cut to fit perfectly, you could direct the cold water valve clockwise to point to the right just like the hot water line is pointing away. It is possible to splice in a section of 3/8 tubing on the cold feed.

You found my almost catastrophic flaw. My original plan was to keep the cold line at full length to keep Delta's built in compression fitting hardware but at that length, the only workable angle without too tight a bend would have it blocking an outlet. I did a dry run with several different angles but the straight to the valve fit worked best. I intended to leave some slack but I accidently cut off too much leaving just enough to have the tube go straight into the valve with about a 1/4" of tubing extending past the nylon ferule (but about an 1/8" too short to bottom out on the valve's compression fitting. I really thought I was being careful when I cut the tubing. Thought I was erroring on the side of making it too long. I was not happy with the result but it was still useable.

I'm using a duel outlet stop valve for the cold side to feed an RO filter so rotating the valve clockwise would expose the 1/4" tubing to the hose and weight. I appreciate all the suggestions. I'll post a photo when I implement something that works well.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The picture does show a very neat installation. The new faucets are nice with everything built in for single hole units. I just installed two Delta bathroom faucets myself and it was a dance to get the lines in. These were over a 24" cabinet with half draws and one door less than a 12" door. The plumbing was moved to the side of the door for each cabinet but the lines would flex toward the draws and get bumped. I had to loop some, cut others like you did and use zip ties to keep them away from the sharp edged draw rails. The tubing with these faucets are fairly stiff so as they don't crimp when lopping them around.

For others that might read this post, when you rebuild a kitchen install two 1/2" stubs for both the hot water and cold water lines. This provides a separate valve for an ice maker or a separate filter with its own faucet and one for the dishwasher without having deal with a dual valve that might limit the way the lines need to be dressed in.

 

[Geobrick]

This was my solution. I created my own hose guide using a bungee cord and zip ties (see photos).

 

[OLD TIMER]

You're the man.

 

[Plumber69]

How much stress is that putting on the hose when you pull it out. Usually now its a plastic clip holding it together.

 

[Plumbstar]

try this: https://www.moen.com/products/Moen/Moen-Pullout-Pulldown-Hose-Management-System-Hose-Guide-/159060