Pressure Tank

[Texas Wellman]

Dwayne,

Looks like a great job. For future reference you can just leave the pressure switch in place and run a piece of tubing to the pressure port. I know what you mean about the wire crimps not being available.

 

[Grunt]

Thanx, I almost did run pressure switch to pressure switch if thats what your talking about but felt that a straight run to motor & upgrading wire in motor to 10 gauge would have a slight advantage when I test run from 115v inverter generators. Surprised no one asked about ball valve on in / out of 20 gl pressure tank. 1st reason it's there is curiosity on how fast system recovers to pressure setting that csv valve is set at when only using 4.4 gl tank that came with the kit. Second reason ball valve is there is I believe it will make pump turn over eaiser on 115v if it has back pressure quickly. But thats just some of Dwayne's junk science . There will be a little adjustment to piping from pump to isolation valves in the next few days it will be a lot cleaner / no lines running behind pump motor. It was late and hot in garage when I ran lines & wanted a shower badly. Will be testing on 2 parrelled inverter generators in a few days.
V / R Dwayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Texas Wellman]

Dwayne,

Not sure what you mean by "pressure switch to pressure switch". You only need one switch. Just leave the switch in it's factory configuration next to the motor and then from where the CSV port is run tubing from there to the switch. The switch only needs to see the pressure from downstream of the CSV, it doesn't physically have to be located directly tied into the CSV. You'll have to plug the 1/4" hole on the pump that the pressure switch is normally tied into.

 

[Grunt]

I understand what you're saying now; what I was referring to "pressure switch to pressure switch" was leaving factory pressure switch where it is & running the electric from the pressure switch mounted at the csv to the factory pressure switch on the side of the motor. I opted to do away with the factory pressure switch & run the electric to the motor from the pressure switch mounted at the csv.
The pressure switch I mounted at the csv is the one that has the lever on the side, the m4 low pressure cut off & is eaiser to throw the switch at the csv location. Never dawned on me to run tubing as you stated but location of the switch I have mounted at csv makes it much eaiser to move the handle. I will also be gluing a wooden knob on the lever that makes it much easier to move the handle.
Yes I did plug the 1/4" hole, but had first played wih a few fittings at that hole trying to mount a gauge and raise it above pump but didn't have the room unless I sweated some copper tubing to a fitting & I was out gas / fuel & didn't want to take the time to go & get some, was allready fed up with running around trying to find "STAINLESS STEEL NIPPLES" etc.
In the picture you will notice a zip tie it is only there temporarily to get the seal tight tubing to relax out from being rolled up.

V / R Dwayne

 

[Valveman]

Nice looking job! A pressure gauge attached to the old pressure switch port on the pump would read the same as the gauge you have on the pipe before the CSV. Best just to plug that bottom hole.

Like TW says you can extend the tube from the existing pressure switch on a jet pump to the CSV1A or after instead of adding an additional pressure switch. However, most people have a hard time finding the right kind of tubing or connections to do that. The PK1A kit comes with a new pressure switch, and most times it is just easier to use the new switch and wire around the switch on the side of the motor. You can either take off the pressure switch on the side of the motor like Dwayne did, or just use it as a junction box to connect the wires from the new pressure switch to the motor wires.

 

[Grunt]

Yes I knew the gauge would read the same in either location. It was my first choice to put a gauge on the 1/4" switch port on the pump but with the fittings I had to work with I would have had to sweat a piece of copper tubing to a couple fittings one of which would be screwed into that 1/4" port but I was out of gas & didn't feel like running somewhere for more so I opted to put the gauge on the pipe prior too the csv. I wanted to know how high the back pressure was going to be when making adjustments.
The pump graph / info states that at my suction lift of 15 feet & a discharge pressure of 60 psi I should have 6.9 gpm at discharge of pump. My question is would I be reading the pressure on the gauge prior to the csv to determin that the pump has an appx 6.9 gpm at 60 psi at it's discharge prior to csv & is the gpm decreased flowing thru the csv ?
I know there will be a sweet spot as I am playing / tuning the pressure & gpm primairly with the wife's upstairs bathrooms. There is allready a 25 psi increase in pressure in her bathrooms with a shower & 2 sinks running.
My downstairs bathroom (I haven't put a gauge on it yet) has such pressure on the sink I may blow the bottom of the trap out & feel like the waste arm is being jetted out. My dual shower heads I have to keep shower valves throttled back otherwise im loosing what hair I have left but note that I had removed and or drilled out all water saving devices in my areator & shower heads a long time ago. Yesterday I ordered a couple 1gpm areators & a new dual shower head that would have the restrictors in it. I'm not able to climb stairs repeatedly to check / measure upstairs & back down to adjust csv so this will take a couple days. Also the washer is downstairs & fills up VERY FAST, am looking around to find some type of restrictors for bibs to washer, possibly some type of washers with smaller openings any ideas ?
V / R Dwayne

 

[Valveman]

The gauge before the CSV is what the pump is seeing, so that is the one that corresponds to the pump chart. The gauge after the CSV is what you see at the faucets. The CSV will make the pump put out any amount of water you need. So the number of faucets you have on will determine the flow rate or GPM.

It is Ok for the washing machine to fill faster. If it fills so fast that the solenoid valve thumps when the water shuts off, you can just reduce the flow with the ball cock or angle stop that feeds the washing machine. That way you can adjust to fill as fast as possible without causing water hammer when the solenoid closes.

The pressure for everything in the house is completely adjustable. It is rare for someone to complain about having too much pressure, but a CSV can turn a shower into a car wash if you want. The bolt on that CSV1A will adjust the pressure from 15 to 150 PSI. So you can just loosen the adjustment bolt until the shower has the optimum pressure. You will get more flow without the aerators and restrictors at the faucets. I would turn the pressure down at the CSV before trying the aerators and restrictors.

 

[Grunt]

The areators / restrictors are for downstairs, if she is using something upstairs & I use something downstairs the downstairs gets more pressure & gpm than she does upstairs. The washing maching is downstairs & really steals a majority of the pressure when filling with warm water.
My cutin is 43 cutout is 63 pressure tanks are 41 csv is adjusted to 58 psi she has 51 psi out her shower upstairs with nothing else running. Haven't timed filling a 5 gl bucket yet at her shower head to get gpm yet & there is no restrictor in her shower head.
v/r Dwayne

 

[Valveman]

Ok I see. That sounds reasonable.

 

[Grunt]

Ok I see. That sounds reasonable.

It's been a long time since being here, I remember talking about running my system (Goulds j10s 1hp) on small inverter generator. With hurricane Erma hitting here I finally got around to testing with small inverter generators. Everything I had read & heard in the past stated I would need at least a 5000 watt generator.
To remind all that had read my past posts my inverter generators are only 115v. I switched the pump switch from 220v to 115v & ran 40 feet of 10 gauge to a 2000 Honda companion paralled with another Honda 2000 & it started & ran the pump with no problem whatsoever. The first test was with the eco mode turned off so the gens were allready spooled up. The second test was with the eco modes turned on so the generators were basicaly at idle when the pumped kicked on & believe it or not the gens barely spooled up above idle and ran the pump with no problems whatsoever.
I then tried running the gens with eco mode on, all pressure bled off the system & manually triped the pressure switch on. The gens did spool up a little this time but didn't push hard at all to start & run the pump. This was going so well I thought I would try only one of the 2000's & 0 pressure in the system.
She would start the pump for appx 4 seconds with some difficulty then gen would tripp out. I felt that my yamaha 2400ishc would do the job probably just barely & am even more confident that my Honda eu3000is will do it just dont have the time to test right now, have a lot to do around here trees down etc. next time power is out I will start with the Yamaha 2400ishc. I have a couple videos below hope they can be posted you know how bad I am at trying to post images and have never done videos so here goes. Ok I have tried to upload the videos of the Hondas running the pump but keep getting a message that any and all of them are too large. If anyone has a way they can teach me to get around that I will try or if you want I can send them in a private pm which I think is just an email which should work. Erma did some damage & flooding around here, at least I have water & electricity which is a very big blessing.
V/R Dwayne

 

[Texas Wellman]

Good to hear from you Dwayne. We've been recovering from our own hurricane here so I know what you're going through.