Pressure switch cycling about every 10 seconds

[sabiduria]

Did you try turning off the valve to the rest of the home to see if the cycling stops?

I do not know if there is a valve that will turn off the water to the home but I will check.

Or were you running water intentionally during the cycling?

No, there was no water running intentionally.

 

[Reach4]

Presuming you tried turning off the valve, I think there is a leak. That leak is probably down the well. It could be the check valve at/in the pump, the down pipe, or the pitless if you have one. If you have a pitless, there would be a well cap (with no pipes through it) over the casing that extends above the ground. You could look in there and listen in there to try for a clue.

I think it is probably time to call a well service to get you diagnosed and repaired in the same day. There are some things that people call an investment that are actually expenses (a new car comes to mind). This well work would be one that people call an expense that is really more of an investment.

Your pressure tank could still have also a problem. A small leak that got a lot of water above the diaphragm could reduce the capacity.

 

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[sabiduria]

I should have mentioned this at the beginning of this thread. I have been having issues with this water pump since last year.

- First, I had to replace the capacitor last year as it went bad - replaced it again about a month ago.
- Then I had to replace the control box that went bad as well.
- Weeks later, the water pump stopped again and we found a bare wire inside the well that we had to patch
- After it was patched, it started working again
- As mentioned already, the capacitor went bad again about a month ago and once replaced, the pump started working again

The cycling issue was noticed about a week ago and that's when I decided to post this thread.

 

[Reach4]

You could work around a leak down the well with a checkvalve before the pressure tank.

 

[sabiduria]

Reach4,

so based on the attached picture, you are saying to install a check valve after the valve gauge and before the pressure tank? doing so will test about a leak from the pressure tank all the way to the water pump out site?

 

[Reach4]

As water comes from the well, the water would hit the check valve and then move on to the pressure tank and pressure gauge.

I suspect that would be in the pipe in the low right of the photo, but maybe it is the vertical pipe covered by black insulation. That way, once water got past the check valve, it could not go back into the well. There may or may not be a knock as the water comes up and hits the valve. Usually it is not too bad. Some places routinely put a check valve topside.

When you next have the pump up, you would fix things in the well. Then you would probably be better to remove the topside check valve or remove its innards.

 

[LLigetfa]

You can make adjustments with the pump running but you will want to run it through a few cycles to confirm the setting.

How do I know the pump's pressure capability?

You will know when you reach it as it won't go higher. I use small vise-grip pliers to hold down the hinged plate that the springs press against to keep the switch from turning off. Be careful not to exceed the pressure rating of the piping and tanks. I advise not exceeding 60 PSI on the test if you want to verify that it can turn off at 50 PSI.

 

[sabiduria]

attached is the link of what it seems to be a valve but I don't think is working as the knob is missing. I tried to close it with a wrench it and it only kept spinning.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X1OXFbGdPwg0ZmuMKyoRYIzb3QT5jihrjw/view?usp=sharing

It looks like check valve to me but i am not sure. it is a 200 WOG valve.

 

[Reach4]

You are talking about the brass valve that was covered with insulation before. That does not look like a check valve to me. Is that from the well? You should not have a closable valve between the pump and the pressure switch.

 

[sabiduria]

- The pipe down the well should poly pipe - black
- The diameter of the water well case is about 6"
- I do not know how deep the water. And do not know how to check it except to use a long stick.
- Went to the water well pump and did not hear any water splashing or any noise while the pump was off

I want to make sure where to put the check valve to do the testing. I have attached a picture where I think it can be installed. Please confirm.

I am assuming that the pipe that does NOT have the black valve is the one coming from the well as along with this pipe is also the 240v wire going out site where the control box is by the water well. So both, the 240v wire and this pipe come together from under the ground.

I do not know where the pipe with the black valve goes to or where is it coming from. I closed it for a few minutes but I was still getting water to the faucet that is after the this valve.

Please see the picture for details.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H87dZkjolz6Ob8hGZ-okJ7vajp1ZjPGlMw/view?usp=sharing

 

[LLigetfa]

Don't install an above ground check valve. They are illegal in many places for good reason. You need to fix the problem down the hole.

 

[Reach4]

I do not know where the pipe with the black valve goes to or where is it coming from. I closed it for a few minutes but I was still getting water to the faucet that is after the this valve.

You are only saying this NOW? How many times did I write about turning off the water to the home with a valve as a test, and you never said you did not do that. The purpose of closing off the water to the home was to be sure the water was not going to a big leak into a drain to the septic or something. You say that stem on valve

It seems unlikely that a massive leak like that would not be noticed, but it should have been checked for. For now, turn off the valve with the black (or blue, which it looks to me) handle. I labeled it A in the attached picture. Off would be with the handle at right angles to the pipe. Leave it off for now.

See the marked up picture I attached. I am thinking that B is the valve that should shut off the water going to the home and that valve is defective. It should be replaced with a working valve. Is it possible that the valve B works but does not have a stop? That is, when you rotate the stem, that there may be a position that stops water to the home. Maybe have a helper monitor a running faucet and shout if the water goes off while you rotate.

In the marked up picture below, I marked a pipe "From well", which I think is the pipe you are saying is coming from the well. If that is the water from the well, and if you have eliminated a big leak going elsewhere, that is the pipe the check valve, to work around a down hole leak, would go. The arrow on the check valve must point toward the pressure switch and point away from the well.

There is not a certainty that a check valve will stop this cycling. Your installation has flaws. You should have a drain valve that lets you drain sediment from the base of the pressure tank. Your pipe into the pressure tank could be clogged up. So while the check valve will probably stop the cycling for now, it may not.

I presume you are leaving the power to the pump turned off most of the time.

I am not a pro. Click Inbox above.

 

[sabiduria]

LLigetfa,

I have adjusted the small spring and now the delta is close to 20psi. The off position last longer but I think the problem is down the well as I did some of the testings Reach4 suggested and the cycling does not stop.

 

[sabiduria]

All,

please know that I ended up replacing the water pump. That fixed the issue. The faulty water pump had too much resistance so it was going bad.

thanks for everyone's help.