Pressure loss
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The 50' elevation to the house means you need to add 20 PSI to the pump pressure. So, instead of 40/60 you need a 60/80 pressure switch. Even at that pressure you still only need a 10 gallon size pressure tank when using a CSV like with the PK1A kit. Without the CSV I would use an 86 gallon size pressure tank, which still won't do as good a job as the CSV and small tank.
http://irrigation.wsu.edu/Content/Calculators/General/Pipeline-Pressure-Loss.php may help with your decision on pipe size. You pressure loss will be the sum of the 50 ft head (about 21 psi) + the dynamic pressure drop due to flow.
If the pressure switch and pressure tank, I would plug 20 gpm into the calculator. You will not have that much flow, but you want to not have a lot off pressure drop in the showers when somebody flushes a toilet or runs the washing machine.
If the pressure tank and pressure switch were up top, I would plug 10 gpm into the calculator.
If the pressure switch and pressure tank, I would plug 20 gpm into the calculator. You will not have that much flow, but you want to not have a lot off pressure drop in the showers when somebody flushes a toilet or runs the washing machine.
If the pressure tank and pressure switch were up top, I would plug 10 gpm into the calculator.
Someone told me I will burn up my pump with a 1” supply line going 300’ and 50’ uphill. I should increase my supply line to 1-1/4” to 2’’. Is there any true to that? if so what size line and would a 1 hp pump still work?
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Have any idea what the difference in height is switch to house. 2.31 ' per lb of pressure. 150' rise add 65 lbs to your switch cut in and cut out. Want 40 - 60, 105 - 125. Going to need a different control.,
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
OP said 300 foot run and 50 foot rise. With .43 PSI per foot, that would be a 21.5 PSI drop. That means you need a pump that can produce 21.5 more PSI than the desired PSI at the top of the hill, so if 80 PSI is desired, the pump would need to produce 101.5 PSI. I don't think you will find a jet pump that can do that.
Pressure drop over the 300 feet needs to be calculated based on pipe size and GPM. There are online calculators for that. If inline resistance drops the GPM, the inline resistance will drop since it increases with GPM so as long as the pressure switch cut-out is so high as to drop the GPM to less than 1, it should not dead-head.
I am boosting city water. I ordered a 1 1/2hp gourd j15s and a pk1a with a pressure switch 60/80.
Please let us know how it works.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Talk to a pump company with using a booster pump alone with your jet and maybe another expansion tank in the house.
I was thinking maybe a multi-stage booster centrifugal pump rather than a jet pump. I have no experience with either.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
True, but it is not documented here what min and max pressure might be available down at the curb.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
Here is a technical document on that pump.
Sorry for the delay. That J15S pump will work fine. Unlike many other jet pumps that one can build 83 PSI max. As long as the city pressure is at least 10 PSI that pump will work fine with a 60/80 switch and a CSV setting of 70 PSI. If you don't have at least 10 PSI coming from the city you will have different problems and will probably require a cistern storage tank.
Like I said, as long as there is at least 10 PSI from the city the J15S is my first choice.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
That should produce a constant pressure of around 50 PSI, so less than what your current pump produces. Is it a multi-level home or a bungalow? At what elevation is the 67 PSI measured? Remember that you lose .43 PSI per foot of elevation and depending on the pipe diameter, you may also have friction loss.
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